1G Harmonic Balancer Recommendations

[XC92]

I'm about to replace all the timing-"associated" parts on my '92 Talon TSi AWD, e.g. TB, BB, pulleys, tensioner, WP, seals, belts, thermostat, etc., and realized that it's probably time to replace the harmonic balancer as well. It was replaced after the original one failed just over 18 years ago, and I don't know if they put in another OEM or an aftermarket one, so it seems like it's time especially since I have to take the existing one off.

In any case, the consensus seems to be either OEM or one of the really expensive fluid-dampened ones. The latter are too expensive and probably unnecessary for my stock setup that even if I even mod it won't ever go past 250-300hp. So it seems like OEM is the way to go. But it's $150, and RTM, a site vendor, sells an "OE-Style" one for $55.

RTM Racing :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 2g (1995-99) :: Engine :: Dampers, Pulleys :: OE-Style Harmonic Balancer (Crank Pulley): DSM/EVO 1-3

Does anyone know anything about it and whether it's one of the known aftermarket ones like Dorman or Dayco, and if it's any good? I'll spend the $150 if I have to, but I'm already way overbudget so if I can save the $100 with a decent non-OEM part, that would be nice.

Also, anything else to replace, while I'm in there, including bolts, nuts, washers, etc.?

To be complete, here's what I'm replacing:

• TB (EVO Kevlar)
• BB (Gates Racing)
• 3 Pulleys (OEM)
• Hydraulic Tensioner (OEM)
• Water Pump (Aisin)
• 5 Front Seals (OEM)
• 3 Drive Belts (Gates)
• Thermostat & Gasket (Stant)
• Harmonic Balancer (???)

What else? Maybe the tensioner arm/bracket?

 

[1cleangsx]

That’s exactly what I did, just trimmed the plastic a little bit where it was touching

One thing I can say about the Fluidamper is it’ll never separate like an OEM one. My old one did and it sounded like rod knock , also I was running a chattery unsprung street disc and once I upgraded to the fluidamper and no more chatter, I know their a little pricey but I say their worth it

 

[XC92]

If you think you might want to buy a Fluidamper, you might want to look into the modification to the timing belt cover that people say you need to do for it. Just to see what it is and if it is something you would want to do. @iugrad92turbo @1cleangsx and @DSMPT have Fluidampers on 1g's.

I thought that a newer version took care of that so it clears the cover. Either way it shouldn't be a big deal even if I had to cut it. But, I still haven't decided whether to get one and if I do it won't be right away.

 

[We're on Boost]

Well I looked at iugrad's pic that he posted in his build thread March 30, 2020 and I wasn't sure what to make of it.
So here's what I'm seeing with new parts on the "bench" haha washing machine. See what you guys think of this:

There are 2 circular ribs that stand out from the cover behind the pulley.

The inner circular rib that is 5.125 inches in diameter stands out farther than the outer rib by about 0.060” and it is what rubs on the back face of the pulley when you put them together.
That is what would have to be sanded down or cut down. By 40 or 50 thou? Maybe you would try to bring it flush with the outer rib? (60 thou down)

Everything else is ok right? Plenty of clearance otherwise I think?

In my “edge” picture that is a little blurry, the clearance between the pulley flange and the cover is somewhere between 1/8” and 3/16”. The inner circular rib is laying right on the back face of the pulley. The outer circular rib has 0.060" clearance to the back face of the pulley.
Sorry I didn’t have time to mark up these pics with arrows and stuff.

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[MattHDSM]

I'm wondering though, I'm running basically stock now, ~200HP tops. If I ever modded the car it would be fairly modest, no more than 250-300HP, because I just won't even need or want more power and because I'd have to upgrade the trans if I went much over this, and I really don't want to do that. At what HP level do you really start to need a fluid-based HB and not a rubber-based one?

I'm under 300hp, maybe at 250hp? I've got pretty much a factory rebuild except with a small 16g and BSE. I was worried about the BSE maybe introducing some new harmonics that were outside of the range the oem damper was tuned for. Whether or not a BSE does introduce new harmonics is not something I could speak out about, but for the peace of mind that a fluidampr might help AND also never need to be replaced was enough for me to warrant the extra cost on my new build. I will say I don't feel any more (or less for that matter) vibrations after doing the BSE and adding my fluidampr so maybe it is dampening something? All I know is I'm not worried about my damper.

My final decision was mostly in regards to engine longevity beyond stock horsepower and how I could maybe help with that. Again, I don't really know how much it actually helps, but I feel better knowing I have one.

 

[XC92]

I'm under 300hp, maybe at 250hp? I've got pretty much a factory rebuild except with a small 16g and BSE. I was worried about the BSE maybe introducing some new harmonics that were outside of the range the oem damper was tuned for. Whether or not a BSE does introduce new harmonics is not something I could speak out about, but for the peace of mind that a fluidampr might help AND also never need to be replaced was enough for me to warrant the extra cost on my new build. I will say I don't feel any more (or less for that matter) vibrations after doing the BSE and adding my fluidampr so maybe it is dampening something? All I know is I'm not worried about my damper.

My final decision was mostly in regards to engine longevity beyond stock horsepower and how I could maybe help with that. Again, I don't really know how much it actually helps, but I feel better knowing I have one.

I'm increasingly leaning towards getting the fluidmpr HB for all the reasons given here including yours, but because of its relatively high cost I'm going to try to put it off for as long as I think is safe. I'll have a good look at the current HB when I remove it to do a TB job and try to see how much life it has left in it.

Although, chances are that I'll no longer have the car when it's time to replace the HB again if I go with OEM this time, so the real reason to get a fluid one is in case I mod the car to get higher HP, which can change the harmonics.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I replaced my old one because i had it for ever i mean forever it was worn. I didnt want to take chance and since my engine was just build, top to bottom i didnt want to take a chance. So i just bought the fluidamper, and was done with it, upgrade while im there is my motto if you can. Didnt want to keep up the problems with the platform.

 

[MattHDSM]

I'm increasingly leaning towards getting the fluidmpr HB for all the reasons given here including yours, but because of its relatively high cost I'm going to try to put it off for as long as I think is safe. I'll have a good look at the current HB when I remove it to do a TB job and try to see how much life it has left in it.

Although, chances are that I'll no longer have the car when it's time to replace the HB again if I go with OEM this time, so the real reason to get a fluid one is in case I mod the car to get higher HP, which can change the harmonics.

If you go with oem, you can always upgrade at a later date should you deem it necessary. I will say on a 2g (not sure about the dimensions on a 1g), it's a bit of a pain in the ass installing a fluidampr because of how close the engine and the frame rails are. I always have to undo the driver side motor mount and drop the engine a couple of inches to make some room for clearance. But once it's on, no issues with clearance (except for maybe trimming the timing cover back a bit).

 

[XC92]

If you go with oem, you can always upgrade at a later date should you deem it necessary. I will say on a 2g (not sure about the dimensions on a 1g), it's a bit of a pain in the ass installing a fluidampr because of how close the engine and the frame rails are. I always have to undo the driver side motor mount and drop the engine a couple of inches to make some room for clearance. But once it's on, no issues with clearance (except for maybe trimming the timing cover back a bit).

I doubt I'd get the OEM for $150 only to replace it with the fluid for $400 later on. But hopefully I still have some life in the current one before I have to decide.

 

[92AWDHX40]

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Fl...amper-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-1990-1999-4G63T.html i forgot it was 370, i got mine here but i dont remember paying 370 for it. Maybe i did.

 

[XC92]

It's around $370 from several site vendors, before sales tax (which most don't charge so it's up to the buyer) and shipping. So I rounded it up to $400. It's a fair amount of change either way.

If I do get one it'll probably/hopefully be the last major expense on my restoration job. Well, other than whatever needs to be done to get the body looking nice again. It's kind of a mess and I've been putting it off till last.

 

[92AWDHX40]

yes it is is but i pulled the trigger and its now off my list and headaches.

 

[XC92]

Hopefully I'll be able to make a more informed decision when I remove the current one.