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Getting Ready for the 2006 Race Season...................

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LOL :p :rocks:

btw we got 11+ inches of snow from your cali rain strom
 
Having this time down I’ve been able to get some stuff done on the car. I’ve already reinstalled the old oil catch can with the larger filter and oil capacity. I purchased a water pressure warning light system to let me know the minute I lose water pressure (don’t want that to happen again). I had an extension welded to the wastegate dump-tube to extend down beyond the down-pipe, and I’m installing a larger water overflow for added cooling insurance.

During my 2006 annual tech they discovered my set belts expired in April so another $200.00 and I’ll be wearing my third set in a little over two and a-half years. Since Dale Earnhearts fatal crash SFI requires seatbelts to be changed every two years… (not cheap!) They make them up per order so it’s stamped MAY 2006 so I get two full years use out of them…

While getting the seatbelts I noticed that Ultrashield had head support attachments for my race seat. With padding it was only $29.00, a good deal for an extra non-neck breaking precaution. I have a window net on my driver’s side window, plus I wear a HANS device, but I figure a little more protection on my right side couldn’t hurt. ;)
 

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Greg, I thought I read somewhere that the FIA approved harnesses last 6 years, and although they're $300-400 you'd still save money in the long run on them. Maybe something to look into 2 years from now.
 
mavisky said:
Greg, I thought I read somewhere that the FIA approved harnesses last 6 years, and although they're $300-400 you'd still save money in the long run on them. Maybe something to look into 2 years from now.

A comparable set with pads and cam-lock in FIA are between 600-700 bucks with a 3 to 4 week lead time...

A side note: I've been looking at the hundreds Mustang Cobra 17 x 9 copy cat wheels with the 24mm offset on E-Bay for $400.00 and am thinking about getting a set to mount rains on. I'm amazed with all the different sizes and offsets available that will fit our cars -----cheap!
 
Greg Collier said:
A comparable set with pads and cam-lock in FIA are between 600-700 bucks with a 3 to 4 week lead time...

A side note: I've been looking at the hundreds Mustang Cobra 17 x 9 copy cat wheels with the 24mm offset on E-Bay for $400.00 and am thinking about getting a set to mount rains on. I'm amazed with all the different sizes and offsets available that will fit our cars -----cheap!

Ahh, I must've been looking at cheaper versions.

I agree on the mustang wheels. My next set of wheels will be cobra based 17x9's as well. Too darn cheap to pass up.
 
mavisky said:
I agree on the mustang wheels. My next set of wheels will be cobra based 17x9's as well. Too darn cheap to pass up.

What's all this then?

I tried to mount a Mustang wheel on my 3000GT once (3000GT wheels fit on a DSM), and it didn't even come close to fitting. If it won't fit a 3000GT, why do mustang wheels fit a DSM? And do they fit over StopTech calipers?

Please explain, because I need a spare set of wheels to mount up rain tires, too.
And where do you find "cheap" ones?

By the bye, the blue Eclipse is finally running. I've been driving it on the street for the past two days, breaking it in. You wouldn't believe the aggravation we went through to get it going. Maybe we'll see a racetrack sometime soon.

Rich
 
Slow old poop said:
By the bye, the blue Eclipse is finally running. I've been driving it on the street for the past two days, breaking it in. You wouldn't believe the aggravation we went through to get it going. Maybe we'll see a racetrack sometime soon.

Rich
What was the problem narrowed down too?
 
underradar92 said:
What was the problem narrowed down too?

1. The wire to the O2 sensor was broken somewhere in the harness, causing intermittent connections. We ran new wires, finally, after troubleshooting it every which way.
2. The flywheel bolts came loose, causing a mysterious clunk in the engine. Had to drop the trans to fix that one.
3. The front crank sprocket cracked. Although this did not affect the timing belt (whew!), it loosened the pulley in front, which threw the alternator belt off.
4. I made two trips to Europe in the past 30 days, which delayed everything. It came down to taking a free trip to Yurp with my wife or staying home and fixing the car. Yurp won.

Half of our problems stemmed from pisspoor work by the original builder, who took lots of shortcuts, fabbed up some strange stuff, stripped out mounting bolts, and used nonstandard nuts and bolts. We think we've fixed it all properly now. It just proves that buying somebody else's modded car ain't always the way to go racing unless you know the builder and the car. Since you are building your 92 from scratch, you won't have any of these kinds of problems.

The other half of our problems came from never building one of these beasts before, learning as we go, and discovering the importance of using LocTite on everything.

Somebody needs to write a book on modifying DSMs.

Rich
 
wow, nice harnesses. I'm looking to spend a bit of money, but on much simpler 6 point FIA approved ones. You can get a nice set for 2-300$ that are not nearly as nice, but will last and are safe.

I've looked into the 17x9 wheel. I really think that 17x9 is the perfect size, with the exception of whether or not suspension travel will allow the fender to come down ontop of the wheel. I don't mind them sticking out from the fender, I just don't want the fender rubbing the tire on sweepers or bumps.

Plus I just happened upon two SETS of 16x8 inch wheels for free... one has a set of yokohama race rubber too.

I think when the time comes I'll go with a set of 17x9 Team Dynamic racing wheels... They look good too.
 
Hey Rich, I thought by now you’d be ripping up all the tracks with your new setup, with race license in hand. Sorry to hear about your engine woos and your inept builder, it must be a total piss-off!

About the Mustang rims; one of the Wiseman has been running the 17 x 9 Cobra wheel with great success. I started to do some research and discovered that that particular rim will accept a 355 rotor with the Stop Tech caliper. Ours are only 328 so there should be no problem with clearance. My current rim is a 17 x 9.5 with a 5.5 backspacing the Mustang rim I’m looking at is a 17 x 9 with a 24mm or 5.98 backspacing, so the fact the rim is a 9 vs. 9.5 it’ll have the same fitment. The 9” rim will also accept the 275’s that I’m running… E-Bay has literally thousands of brand new wheel deals ;)
 
drivemusicnow said:
I think when the time comes I'll go with a set of 17x9 Team Dynamic racing wheels... They look good too.

Greg
Have you checked out any pricing on these rims yet... I too was looking at these on the Engintecs site...
 
Suparata said:
I'll get you guys some prices and availability as soon as I can. Just give me sizes and models.

I ned the same size as Greg to clear my Stoptechs. Nice cheap wheels, just for rain tires.
Rich
 
If anyone wants to I'd be more than happy to pass my discount at tirerack onto you guys. Not sure how it would work with shipping and all, but it would be a no profit deal on my behalf. I'm here to support my fellow hardcore racers.

Tom, Greg, Luda, Rich, I'd be able to get some Ford Racing 10th anniversary edition wheels for close to $155 a piece in 17x9".

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I could also get the svt cobra R wheels for $160 in the 24mm offset.
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Or the 03 cobra wheels with the diamond cut finish in 17x9 for $157.
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These prices are a little old so may be off by a dollar or two.

FYI - my pricing on a set of 275/40-17's is around $171 for Khumo V700 victoracers. If you're serious about pricing on a wheel and tire package let me know and I'll call and get you exact pricing.
 

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They aren't all that cheap, However they aren't expensive either.

When I was looking at them before I seem to remember about 170 per wheel for 17x8. I don't think I had asked about the 9 inch wide wheels back then.

I'm looking for this to be my race wheel personally.

I don't know how cheap you really want to go on a set of wheels that you'll be racing on though. I've seen some bad things happen, even with decent wheels to go with a cheap option.
 
Just an little fyi for you guys, I know that some hate steel rims, but these cats will make your rims at your specs, at no xtra charge!!!!! http://www.mrt-wheels.com/ There steel, but there racing rims!!!! check them out, and No I don't work for them :p
 
17x9 +35 is what I'm looking for on my car; it will be a tight fit with 255/40/17 MXs, but should be doable. The 5Zigen FN01R-C and Black Racing Pro N-1 wheels have the right size and come in the appearance I wanted, and the Team Dynamics/Rimstock "Pro Race 1.2" look like a good match too. Both seem to have a reasonably low weight to them. The question, as always, is "how much?" ;)
 
NASA race rules say I can't have a locking steering wheel.
My friendly lock and key shop says they don't want to touch it.

So how do you modify the ignition switch so it doesn't lock the steering wheel?

Rich
 
Slow old poop said:
NASA race rules say I can't have a locking steering wheel.
My friendly lock and key shop says they don't want to touch it.

So how do you modify the ignition switch so it doesn't lock the steering wheel?

Rich

Remove it...
 
Slow old poop said:
Remove what? The ignition switch? The locking pawl?
More details, please.

Rich

You drill out the steering lock bolt (special head) remove the clutch mechanism and replace with standard bolt...
 
Greg Collier said:
You drill out the steering lock bolt (special head) remove the clutch mechanism and replace with standard bolt...

We have to pull the steering wheel to weld on a quick-disconnect mount. Will that expose what we need to get to? Or do we have to go deeper to find the lock bolt? Or do we go in through the ignition switch? I've never seen the inside of a steering wheel mechanism, so I am having trouble visualizing the extent of the task.

Rich
 
Slow old poop said:
We have to pull the steering wheel to weld on a quick-disconnect mount. Will that expose what we need to get to? Or do we have to go deeper to find the lock bolt? Or do we go in through the ignition switch? I've never seen the inside of a steering wheel mechanism, so I am having trouble visualizing the extent of the task.

Rich


If I remember you'll have to remove the lock in order to get the wheel off...
 
Greg Collier said:
If I remember you'll have to remove the lock in order to get the wheel off...
THATS WHAT WAS HOLDING IT ON? we were trying to get the wheel off our parts car and it just would not come off. I couldn't see anymore screws holding it in, but it just wouldnt come off. O well, doesn't matter now.
 
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