The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ok guy I recieved that oil pump but it is much smaller than I thought it was going to be :confused:

But!!! I think it still may work. Im going to try to test the flow of it and see if it going to be good enough. Ill post a video when im done testing.
 
Here is a picture of my drain. -10 AN pushlock.
Nice looking setup for sure. If only the -10AN lines were bigger....


Here's a very simple setup I made recently for a customer's 6-bolt running a 5031E:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It's a 2G oil drain (largest I.D. of the three drain choices) with a piece of 3/4" silicone hose in the center. The 2G drain cost $11 brand new from JNZ, and aside from cutting it to add the piece of hose the only other mod that was done was to cut the flange slightly at the top to fit the larger T3 drain flange. I sealed it at the top using a T3 drain gasket and some Gray RTV, and the fit / finish is very professional.

Of course the front motor mount had to be trimmed....the drain for the the 5031E faced directly into the motor mount. :ohdamn:

For those on a budget, this line is the way to go for under $20....you just have to be careful not to overtighten the clamps or you'll crush the aluminum drain pipe.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
A 20G would be simple to run as shown above....simply slot the two upper flange holes toward center slightly and you're good to go. The placement of the Garrett's oil drain prompted an additional piece of hose to lengthen the drain slightly.
 
The "FP Blue" drain tube has an ID of .375'', by far the worst. Wish I hadn't bought this thing. :notgood:
 
I put the elbow in today, took a little bit of fussing but once the oil got the hose wet it slid right on. I didn't cut any material away, I just split it in two and it turned out great. You can see now that there is no way for it to kink and the lower hose runs straight into the oil pan, I would have liked it to have been at a slight angle but I think that's fine.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The "FP Blue" drain tube has an ID of .375'', by far the worst. Wish I hadn't bought this thing. :notgood:
Yeah, I was surprised to see that too. Years ago, I received an FP drain with a used turbo that I bought off a guy. I was surprised to see that they used such a small diameter hose (-8), but I used the thing for a year and I never had an issue...
 
Just to add to this huge debate. If you really want to run from the ofh, you could put a regulator in the line so that not only are you controlling volume you are also controlling pressure, and you can adjust. When you put a restricter on the turbo your basically making a pressure washer. To do it correctly I would personally control it right off the housing that way it has some time to flow and loose pressure down the line and not shoot onto the turbo like a pressure washer.

Instead you could get one of these Regs and put 2 -4 fittings on it and call it a day install it right next the the OFH and now you have full control of it. Anyone think of that......?

~Andy
 
What could also work well is if you put the restricter right on the ofh instead of on the turbo.
 
Just to add to this huge debate. If you really want to run from the ofh, you could put a regulator in the line so that not only are you controlling volume you are also controlling pressure, and you can adjust. When you put a restricter on the turbo your basically making a pressure washer. To do it correctly I would personally control it right off the housing that way it has some time to flow and loose pressure down the line and not shoot onto the turbo like a pressure washer.

Instead you could get one of these Regs and put 2 -4 fittings on it and call it a day install it right next the the OFH and now you have full control of it. Anyone think of that......?

~Andy
That would keep the pressure from increasing when the rpm increase. I dont know if its good to run the same pressure at idle and redline, dont you want it to increase as the rpms increase
 
That would keep the pressure from increasing when the rpm increase. I dont know if its good to run the same pressure at idle and redline, dont you want it to increase as the rpms increase

You could set it to the max pressure you want to see. Like 60psi lets say, that way you never go over 60psi.
 
Here is a picture of my drain. -10 AN pushlock. My friend made me fittings to bolt to the turbo and weld onto the pan. The pushlock fittings have 3 notches on them to keep the hose from sliding off. I had to cut one notch off of each to keep the hose from kinking. The silver spring looking thing is from Goodyear to keep the hose from kinking as well.

I'm using -4 AN supply, no balance shafts, OFH ported, and the one time I put a gauge on, I was seeing about 80 psi of pressure at about 6000 rpm. I'm only on 7 lbs of boost and haven't driven it but a couple hundred miles so I guess time will tell. So far no smoking issues.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

where did u get the anti kink spring?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Came up with a nice drain for my holset, i ended up drilling my 10an fittings out to 11/16ths, and using two 3/4 copper street 45s, one on each oil drain fitting, and a piece of 3/4 copper pipe between the two. No kinks and now theres no sharp 90 degree turn that might fall below the oil level in the pan:thumb:
 
Came up with a nice drain for my holset, i ended up drilling my 10an fittings out to 11/16ths, and using two 3/4 copper street 45s, one on each oil drain fitting, and a piece of 3/4 copper pipe between the two. No kinks and now theres no sharp 90 degree turn that might fall below the oil level in the pan:thumb:

Not bad.................. I guess I'll be the first to ask.

Any pics? :thumb:
 
Not bad.................. I guess I'll be the first to ask.

Any pics? :thumb:

i would like to see this too!

i am currently waiting on my SBR oil lines for my HX35, i guess they ran out or something.... :/
 
quick question, does the hole on the actual oil pan need to be enlarged also?
 
I just measured my oil return flange on my turbo. It's 0.5 inches. Does that mean it's -8 AN?

More importantly, where can you buy a larger flange for both the turbo and oil pan??

I've seen a few 10 AN flanges here and there but nothing larger.

Has anyone been able to source larger flanges?

Tom

PS: My 1000th post :)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top