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FP3052 is there a cheap way to set it up?

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syclone

15+ Year Contributor
91
1
Jan 26, 2006
searcy, Arkansas
OK, I have my heart set on a FP3052 which is $1,399 I can handle that
but with the V-band wastgate $359.00 and the custom V-band 02 housing $250.00
it comes to over 2 grand, plus the wastegate flanges/copperwashers/wastegate springs, etc.
is there a way to just buy the turbo, and have the rest welded/fabricated and not spend 2 thousand plus, if not,,,

what Turbo would you guys go with in its place? if you could not afford the FP3052 but wanted close to the same performance
 
You could always get the GT3076 (GT30R). It's the same thing as the 3052, but without the bolt-on housing. You can, however, get a GT30R that is bolt-on. The bolt-on turbine housing is pretty tiny and restrictive, but it will be cheaper than doing it full T3 or full FP.
 
Short answer, No if you have your heart set on the 3052, its going to cost you. You could try & get some of the parts made elsewhere, like the O2 housing but if you get one built to the same quailty, it would probably end up costing the same in the long run. Plus I can vouch that FP's quality is amazing. I just recently installed my 3052 setup & thinks its an amazing setup for a DD.

The 3052 is just a Garrett GT3076 (center section & comp cover) with FP's bolt on housing. You can get this in a T3 version but by the time you get a T3 mani, custom O2 housing, etc you are looking at just as much or more depending on which route you go with. The GT3076 can be had in other bolt on mitsu housings. Both Bullseye & PTE make a version with their own housing. Now the price for the turbo itself will run you abit less then the FP version of the turbo but you can use your other stock components & save some money on going with an internal & then swap it down the road for an external if thats what you want. Granted it won't perform & make the same kind of power as the FP setup, it will be alot lighter on the wallet.
 
so would my best route be to sell my mitsu flanged header and get a t-3 header and get a 3076? is there a cheaper but good quality o2 housing available?
 
If you think about it, a T3 manifold is going to be about $400 for one you can depend on. Don't compromise quality for price in this area. You are also going to need a new o2 housing for the turbine outlet on the Garrett turbo. It will be a 4 bolt or 5 bolt discharge, depending which housing you get. Companies make these o2 housings, but they are no less than $200, probably more.

Of course you can get a local shop to make you one, or you can make it yourself. This is when your input comes in: How is the quality factor from the shop? Is it really cheaper? How much is your time worth?

Like I said, you can get a bolt-on GT30R from a few different companies that use a Mitsu housing customized to accept the Garrett CHRA. This would be the cheapest, but not the best choice by far.
 
so would my best route be to sell my mitsu flanged header and get a t-3 header and get a 3076? is there a cheaper but good quality o2 housing available?


For a SS O2 housing it will still cost you ballpark what the FP one (with the dump) will, this isn't usually an off the shelf part as depending on what T3 mani you choose to run, the turbo placement will be slightly different so the O2 housings end up being slightly different. I believe I was quoted about $325 to have one made up from one of our sponsors. There is a cheeper T3 mani, the Treadstone which is a knock off of the Turbonetics but seems to be holding up well with the limited people who are using it. There cheeper compared to the Tnetics, think around $280 but like I said above a complete T3 setup will run you atleast as much as the FP setup & if you add a good tubular mani obviously the total increases. I believe my FP setup ran me right around $2200 US & I got a deal from one of FP's distributors (because of order value, ordered other things as well). When I worked it out the T3 setup was slightly more when you figured in the shipping for sourcing the parts from many different locations (which is another reason I went the FP route, sourced everything from one spot) & I believe that was calculated with the cheeper Treadstone mani. If money is a concern both FP & T3 are going to run you a good amount. Like I mentioned above the cheepest route would to be a "bolt on" Mitsu flanged version such as the PTE or bullseye. They won't perform quite as well as the FP or T3 setup as the turbine housing won't flow as well, but they are still great performers.
 
Daren_P well you sound very knowledgeable, so which would you prefer bullseye or PTE
not that I have decided to go this route, I really want the FP5032 but I want to see all my options.
 
I am having my fellow shop buddy fabricate my 02 housing and downpipe for the cost of parts. So if you can find someone who is willing to work out a deal with you I'd try it.
 
Daren_P well you sound very knowledgeable, so which would you prefer bullseye or PTE
not that I have decided to go this route, I really want the FP5032 but I want to see all my options.

Normally I would probably go the PTE route with other turbos as their housing looks just like stock externally & you can keep the factory heat sheild which for me would be a plus (while others wouldn't care) but for the GT3076 I would have to say Bullseye power. Reason being their housing seems to be abit more symetrical (internally) compared to the PTE but the main reason is the for some strange reason PTE only offers this turbo with a .48 A/R turbine housing (while they offer other slightly smaller turbos, like the "50 trim" with the larger .63). I don't understand why, but the Bullseye housing is more around .55 A/R. And while they probably can't be direct comparisions as I would imagine their volutes are different sizes, overall I believe the Bullseye housing to be the better flowing turbine housing for this perticuler turbo. The smaller A/R of the PTE will give you quicker spool up but will limit your top end abit. I don't think most get this turbo because they want a super fast spooling turbo & would rather have the top end.
 
As for fabricating parts, I am in the military (maintenance company) I have several resources to help me fab parts, I just need to know what to fab, o2 housing doesnt look like it would take a rocket scientist to build, I may look into doing this I REALLY have my heart set of a FP3052, my header has a flange for a external wastegate it is a header from slowboy, the pipe doesnt come of the #1 cylender like some it seems to be more to the bottom comming of a couple of the runners as it opens up right on top of the flange, is this OK? i've read bad things about the wastegates on the # 1 cylender but not much on my type header.
 
The FP 30 series turbos have the wastegate flange for a Tial 44mm cast into the housing itself so you would probably need to get a block off plate for the manifold in order to run the 3052.
 
Well I have decided to Order the FP3052 and just save money to finish my project that way I will have the turbo I want. so,,
Do I need to call them? they mention calling them for all the options available, but I really cant afford a bunch of bells and whistles unless they are talking about different size turbine housings, if this is the case, what size is recomended,
I have a 2.3 6bolt
GSC 280 Cams, w/fidanza adjustable cam gears
ported/polished head,
header,
3" exhaust,
DSMlink,
780 injectors,
PLX devises R-500 wide band

I will NOT be roadracing, DRAG RACE ONLY
 
why not just go with an FP Green? cheaper setup because the v-band is uneccessary for the green. if you go with some 880's or 950's you will be able to max out the green and see just about the same gains as the 3052.
 
why not just go with an FP Green? cheaper setup because the v-band is uneccessary for the green. if you go with some 880's or 950's you will be able to max out the green and see just about the same gains as the 3052.

Because he wants a Fp3052.... And no you wont see about he same gains.
 
Well I have decided to Order the FP3052 and just save money to finish my project that way I will have the turbo I want. so,,
Do I need to call them? they mention calling them for all the options available, but I really cant afford a bunch of bells and whistles unless they are talking about different size turbine housings, if this is the case, what size is recomended,
I have a 2.3 6bolt
GSC 280 Cams, w/fidanza adjustable cam gears
ported/polished head,
header,
3" exhaust,
DSMlink,
780 injectors,
PLX devises R-500 wide band

I will NOT be roadracing, DRAG RACE ONLY


Couple things come to mind, first you will need bigger injectors if you want to max that turbo out. Second thing why don't you opt for the 3065? You say its for drag race only & its a storker motor so you are going to spool the turbo quicker. I spool my 3052 at 4100 rpms on an untuned DD but boost probably starts right around 3000 rpms. There not so on/off boost like the smaller 16g series turbo so I don't even notice the extra lag driving around town with the 3052 vs the evoIII (which was fully spooled at 3500 with my setup). With a stroker your probably going to spool that 3052 around the same as a 2.0L & the evoIII, ~ 3500. With the 3065 your probably looking around the 4000 mark on the stroker (of course can vary with cams, headwork, intake mani etc). If I was awd & running a stroker I wouldn't think twice about getting the 3065 & that would be on a mainly DD car with some track (drag) time.

As for the options, there aren't very many for either turbo. You can get the comp cover or the turbine housing polished (or both), you can get it without an elbow or you can have one welded on to point either towards the drivers or passenger side depending on your IC setup. Those are the basics & are pretty std. I would recommend getting their SS head feedline with inline filter & the "blue" return line, it makes a nice package.
 
Well, I just Ordered my FP3052, now I'm broke and have to save to finish the build.
but i got the turbo I wanted:thumb:
 
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