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For putting an engine back together....

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dwrestle1

Probationary Member
9
0
Nov 11, 2002
Fort Meade, Maryland
Hello Everyone,

I am putting my engine back together slowly but surely and have some questions… I have arranged them as close as I can by subject:



Oil Front Case/Oil Pump/Oil Pan:

1) What tool is everyone using to tighten the plug cap (almost star/sun shaped cap) that goes over the bolt for the oil pump driven gear?

2) I do not see anywhere that there is a gasket that goes between the oil pump cover and the front case. Should sealant be put there? If so, what type?

3) Where the silent shaft seals and the crank shaft seal meet the front case, should there be any sealant placed there? If so, what type?

4) I have seen some pics, when people have used the balance shaft eliminator kits, which show a bolt on the front cover (below and to the right of the top left balance shaft) that has JBWeld on it. Is this necessary? Here is a link to a pic… http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/newmotor5.jpg

5) If using the balance shaft eliminator kit, is it necessary to put JB weld in the following places?

a. http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/DSC00691.JPG

b. http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/DSC00701.JPG

6) Is there anywhere else on the front cover that needs RTV Sealant or JBWeld?

7) I had ordered a few bolts from Mitsubishi for the front case, others I bought form Home Depot. For the ones I bought from Home Depot, should I use washers on all of them? Or maybe a better question is: Which bolts on the front cover should I use washers with?

8) Where is a good place to tap for an oil temp gauge?

9) Is Permatex Gold a good sealant for the oil pan?



Head:

1) Which type of sealant should I use on the valve cover at the semi-circle plug and cam shaft seals?

2) Are they the only places that need it?

3) When assembling the head, should you prime the lifters with oil or put them in dry?

4) Do you need to use sealant on the thermostat case assembly? If so, which type?

5) Do you need to use sealant at the CAS? If so, which type?

6) Where on the head should you tap for oil if you are using a ball-bearing turbo like the Forced Performance 3065?





Thank you all so much for your help and time. It is greatly appreciated.



Respectfully,

Demetri
 
quite honeslty, i wouldn'e recommend putting JB weld anywhere internally on the engine.....but maybe thats just me....as for the balance shafts, just get the kit and do it the right way. the valve cover gasket kit comes with a little semi circle tha goes into that spot on the head, and try putting a little dab of orange silicon at the corners of the valve cover that meet at the camshaft....just a little da bright the cap meets the head....good luck :thumb: :dsm:
 
1) What tool is everyone using to tighten the plug cap (almost star/sun shaped cap) that goes over the bolt for the oil pump driven gear?

I never take that off, so I can't help you there. Sorry.

2) I do not see anywhere that there is a gasket that goes between the oil pump cover and the front case. Should sealant be put there? If so, what type?

Nope, they just bolt together.

3) Where the silent shaft seals and the crank shaft seal meet the front case, should there be any sealant placed there? If so, what type?

I always put a thin coat of RTV around the outside of the seals, and put either assembly lube or grease on the surface that touches the moving shaft.

4) I have seen some pics, when people have used the balance shaft eliminator kits, which show a bolt on the front cover (below and to the right of the top left balance shaft) that has JBWeld on it. Is this necessary? Here is a link to a pic… http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/newmotor5.jpg

I personally use RTV on that bolt, but whatever. You probably ought to use something, because that goes right into an oil galley.


That is the same place, those are just taken on opposite sides of the case.

Yes, use JB Weld. You do NOT want that plug falling out.

6) Is there anywhere else on the front cover that needs RTV Sealant or JBWeld?

Besides putting a thin coat on the gaskets themselves, I can't think of anything. No promises though!:)

You may want to consider getting pretty friendly with the loctite, I know I always do. Having loose bolts near the timing belt, and buried under that cover, does not appeal to me!

7) I had ordered a few bolts from Mitsubishi for the front case, others I bought form Home Depot. For the ones I bought from Home Depot, should I use washers on all of them? Or maybe a better question is: Which bolts on the front cover should I use washers with?


Washers are a good idea, and lockwashers too, especially if you're not using loctite.


8) Where is a good place to tap for an oil temp gauge?

The oil filter housing bracket. I'd get a T fitting so you can hook up the pressure sender and the temp sender.

9) Is Permatex Gold a good sealant for the oil pan?

I use red RTV, but that should be fine, yes.


1) Which type of sealant should I use on the valve cover at the semi-circle plug and cam shaft seals?

2) Are they the only places that need it?

RTV again.

I use a thin coat all the way around, otherwise it weeps oil a little bit.


3) When assembling the head, should you prime the lifters with oil or put them in dry?

Prime them with oil, and then MAKE SURE you collapse them before you put them in.

4) Do you need to use sealant on the thermostat case assembly? If so, which type?

Where the thermostat housing attaches to the head, I use RTV. The factory gasket would work as well.

5) Do you need to use sealant at the CAS? If so, which type?

Nope.

6) Where on the head should you tap for oil if you are using a ball-bearing turbo like the Forced Performance 3065?

The factory oil feed location. You may want to consider using a filter.
 
kpt4321 gave great answers IMO - just a few notes from my rebuild...

Ultra Gray RTV is reccomended for the Oil Pan - I like the Copper Hi-Temp RTV for all the other Sealant requirements mostly because it "sets" very slowly as opposed to other Silicon Sealants.

Don't forget to dab some RTV on the Tensioner fasteners prior to Torquing - USE THE GRENADE PIN to set Tension.

There are 2 different Loctite requirements on the Oil Pump - Blue & Red - Blue being the Vibration loctite - Red the Harder Loctite - ideally you clean them with Loctite Primer.

I like to use Ant-Seize on all the Engine fasteners & Plumbing connections that see High Heat.

Good Luck.
 
1) What tool is everyone using to tighten the plug cap (almost star/sun shaped cap) that goes over the bolt for the oil pump driven gear?

Use a flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Be very careful, the soft metal can easily be ruined. It is similar to adjusting the timing belt tensioner pulley.

-Chris
 
Kyle summed this up nicely, however since you are linking to my site and my pictures let me clear a few things up....


4) I have seen some pics, when people have used the balance shaft eliminator kits, which show a bolt on the front cover (below and to the right of the top left balance shaft) that has JBWeld on it. Is this necessary? Here is a link to a pic… http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/newmotor5.jpg

This is Ultragrey RTV and not JB Weld.


5) If using the balance shaft eliminator kit, is it necessary to put JB weld in the following places?

a. http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/Frontcase/DSC00691.JPG

This is JB Weld, you want to use it in this situation.


Again, this is Ultragrey and is certainly not necessary. I used it during my SBR stage II assembly last year as extra protection against oil leaking out past the block off plug. I used RTV inside since I wasn't sure how JB was in terms of long term oil resistance.
 
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