FMIC

[Jrock11]

Quick question would it be normal for your car to run a little warmer not overheat or anything but just warmer because of a FMIC. It seems this could be possible since the FMIC is blocking the radiator from getting some air??

 

[LiquidX]

What are your coolant temps at that you are concerned about? That will be the biggest factor to figure out if it's normal or not and whether you need to address the issue.

 

[TRSblader]

Very possible depending on a lot of things. Some people do extra ducting to get more air to the radiator if the overheating becomes a big problem.

 

[airmail96]

Simple answer to your question would be yes, but like stated you can add better flowing fans or do some ducting work to direct more air through your radiator.

 

[Jrock11]

Ok thanks for the confirmation guys I will definitely try to work something out. The temp sensor is nothing to be concerned about it's only when you actually pop open the hood after a drive and feel all that heat from the exhaust manifold and turbo.

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

Yes it definatly hurts airflow to the radiator. You can do any of the following, in no perticular order, to help.
1. Increase percentage of water to anitfreeze and add redline water wetter.
2. Heat wrap the manafold, O2, water pipe and down pipe.
3. Cut holes in the bumper.
4. Cut holes in the hood.
5. Remove the seal at the back of the hood.
6. Create sheetmetal ducting to force cool air to the radiator.
7. Cut out the crash beam for airflow around the innercooler.
8. After market Aluminum radiator.

Possible items that need to be replaced.
1. Water pump.
2. Thermostat.
3. Head gasket.
4. Radiator fan.

 

[brokedowntalon7]

like all the others have said, yes it can. Here is my favourite example of ducted radiator setup. Although you are specifically concerned about the fmic obstructing airflow the setup in the link below will give you an idea about what is involved in ideal (or almost) radiator cooling.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/386716-my-ducted-radiator-setup-road-racing.html

Also there are many good threads about pre radiator ducting, ( just search radiator ducting) this type of setup seems more practical, easier to do, and should suffice for most people.

 

[LiquidX]

Yes it definatly hurts airflow to the radiator. You can do any of the following, in no perticular order, to help.
1. Increase percentage of water to anitfreeze and add redline water wetter.
2. Heat wrap the manafold, O2, water pipe and down pipe.
3. Cut holes in the bumper.
4. Cut holes in the hood.
5. Remove the seal at the back of the hood.
6. Create sheetmetal ducting to force cool air to the radiator.
7. Cut out the crash beam for airflow around the innercooler.
8. After market Aluminum radiator.

Possible items that need to be replaced.
1. Water pump.
2. Thermostat.
3. Head gasket.
4. Radiator fan.

This will have good info for ducting and mounting fans.

1. You should keep a 50:50 mix of water/antifreeze. Not only is antifreeze a lubrication for the water pump, it's a rust inhibitor and it also raises the boiling point of the mixture which is important. If anything, just add a bottle of Water Wetter.

2. IMO this should be done on any setup really.

3. Holes in the bumper will only help if that airflow is directed towards the radiator and not going around it.

4. Holes in the hood will work excellently due to the simple fact that heat rises. Much easier for heat to leave upwards and try to exit under the car.

5. This is a myth, the point where the seal is is a high pressure spot. Air will travel into the engine bay at that location.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...aising-hood-hinges-question-merged-5-9-a.html

6. Ducting is one of the best modifications to do for your cooling system.

7. A properly ducted setup shouldn't need to bypass the intercooler to cool the radiator down. They should become a single unit to maximize the efficiency of both. If anything you would want a scoop behind the intercooler but underneath it to allow fresh cool air to hit the radiator as well. However, ducting will vary between specific needs.

8. Just putting an aluminum radiator on won't do squat. You have too look at the design and how many cores it has. A 3 core is going to cool better than a 2 core not to mention, some are thicker than others and allow better airflow as well.

The stock radiator is actually a pretty good radiator being designed for turbo applications. However years of built up grime will cause cooling efficiency loss and a new radiator will show that. My personal experience switching from the stock setup to a Mishimoto 2 row setup with their slim fans INCREASED my coolant temps.


Aside from ducting, you want to the stock fans if at all possible. If not, then look into getting a set of SPAL fans with at least 1200cfm of airflow/fan. The stock fans run around 1600cfm and it seems that some of the fans out there (Mishimoto for instance) only run between 700-900 cfm of airflow which isn't much at all.

OP, I will say that you at least have a better advantage to get cooler temps since you have the 2gb Eclipse bumper which has a much larger intake area than every other model stock.

 

[Boostnvegas]

this will have good info for ducting and mounting fans.

1. You should keep a 50:50 mix of water/antifreeze. Not only is antifreeze a lubrication for the water pump, it's a rust inhibitor and it also raises the boiling point of the mixture which is important. If anything, just add a bottle of water wetter.

2. Imo this should be done on any setup really.

3. Holes in the bumper will only help if that airflow is directed towards the radiator and not going around it.

4. Holes in the hood will work excellently due to the simple fact that heat rises. Much easier for heat to leave upwards and try to exit under the car.

5. This is a myth, the point where the seal is is a high pressure spot. Air will travel into the engine bay at that location.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...aising-hood-hinges-question-merged-5-9-a.html

6. Ducting is one of the best modifications to do for your cooling system.

7. A properly ducted setup shouldn't need to bypass the intercooler to cool the radiator down. They should become a single unit to maximize the efficiency of both. If anything you would want a scoop behind the intercooler but underneath it to allow fresh cool air to hit the radiator as well. However, ducting will vary between specific needs.

8. Just putting an aluminum radiator on won't do squat. You have too look at the design and how many cores it has. A 3 core is going to cool better than a 2 core not to mention, some are thicker than others and allow better airflow as well.

The stock radiator is actually a pretty good radiator being designed for turbo applications. However years of built up grime will cause cooling efficiency loss and a new radiator will show that. My personal experience switching from the stock setup to a mishimoto 2 row setup with their slim fans increased my coolant temps.


Aside from ducting, you want to the stock fans if at all possible. If not, then look into getting a set of spal fans with at least 1200cfm of airflow/fan. The stock fans run around 1600cfm and it seems that some of the fans out there (mishimoto for instance) only run between 700-900 cfm of airflow which isn't much at all.

Op, i will say that you at least have a better advantage to get cooler temps since you have the 2gb eclipse bumper which has a much larger intake area than every other model stock.

^^^^^^^^
yea, what he said....