First try turning over motor, why wont it stay running?

[tay97gst]

I'm hoping you guys can watch the video and tell me what you think is wrong. It's a 6 bolt head on a 7 bolt block so it has the 1g cas. It is set to non 95-96 cas in link and the wiring order to coil pack is (Spark plug wires and coil pack from left to right) 1 is to 4 on the coil pack, 2 is to 1, 3 is to 2, and 4 is to 3 like this

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http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/P...C4-2192-0000031BAAF4B561_zpsd3f9c551.mp4.html
LINK TO VIDEO ^^^

as you could see it would stay running if throttle was applied but I dont want to have to force it to stay running because that means somethings wrong. Any and all help is appreciated. I did take a log while trying to start it, it is a stock tune on the ecu except for little changes( ie wideband and firing order)

 

[razrman8]

Hey man I was checking out your thread on the Panda build and figured I'd come here and see what I couldn't find. Let me start off by saying that I am by no means a professional when it comes to tuning a car. I know the basics and that's about it. Your video is showing that it is not staying started. My question is, have you done all the calibrations as far as MAF, throttle position, etc.? I was looking at your log and there were places where your idle was higher while the throttle position was at 0% than it was when the throttle was applied. Also what kind of AFR are you getting at idle? Do you have bigger injectors? Have they been dialed in as far as deadtime? Again, I'm no pro, I'm just putting out there what I know and can see. Your firing order is fine, it doesn't sound to be missing.

You have to think, that hx35 is taking in a lot more air than a t-25 is at idle. Along with cams altering that. Also you have a rewired 255. Which means your getting a lot more fuel now. I would say some things need to be ironed out in your tuned. Make sure you get those calibrations set up.

 

[tay97gst]

Hey man I was checking out your thread on the Panda build and figured I'd come here and see what I couldn't find. Let me start off by saying that I am by no means a professional when it comes to tuning a car. I know the basics and that's about it. Your video is showing that it is not staying started. My question is, have you done all the calibrations as far as MAF, throttle position, etc.? I was looking at your log and there were places where your idle was higher while the throttle position was at 0% than it was when the throttle was applied. Also what kind of AFR are you getting at idle? Do you have bigger injectors? Have they been dialed in as far as deadtime? Again, I'm no pro, I'm just putting out there what I know and can see. Your firing order is fine, it doesn't sound to be missing.

You have to think, that hx35 is taking in a lot more air than a t-25 is at idle. Along with cams altering that. Also you have a rewired 255. Which means your getting a lot more fuel now. I would say some things need to be ironed out in your tuned. Make sure you get those calibrations set up.

I have stock injectors in right now just to get the engine started. I have a fuellab AFPR controlling the pressure to 43 psi, so theoretically it should be fine using the stock tune. I was able to get it to idle but I had to adjust the idle switch high enough that it was idling at like 1700, but I also noticed that I had virtually 0 vacuum while it was idling so I'm assuming I have a big leak somewhere, I'm performing a BLT now and will report back

EDIT: Did a BLT and fixed a couple major boost leaks but there are still some. Still not pulling any vacuum at idle

I'm going to keep updating this as I do more things to try and fix it. So far I have, adjusted TPS so that it is correct, zero'd out the global deadtime in link because of stock 450cc injectors (not sure why they werent zero'd), unplugged MAF to see if it was bad (idled better when plugged in) and adjusted a few miscellaneous things. I will keep reading and watching videos tonight and see if any of these changes will help tomorrow.