First time back at the track...

[Brutal_r3drum]

is it just me or does the metal look like a hand giving the finger in the second pic???

gl with the install and hope it runs great after its back together...

 

[Gooberlog]

is it just me or does the metal look like a hand giving the finger in the second pic???

gl with the install and hope it runs great after its back together...

haha yeah it does kinda look like someone flipping the bird.
Yeah she's back together and running good. I posted above your post. A cheap fix at around $100 when it could have grenaded my whole engine, but man was there alot of work involved.

 

[Brutal_r3drum]

yeah i bet

 

[Gooberlog]

So the car is running good, i got the exhaust hacked off and it's running open downpipe and i turned up the boost so i went back to the track. Friday night test and tune was over 85*f and very hummid so i only went to watch some friends race. Sunday on the other hand was a high of 80*f mostly cloudy and no humidity. So my friend talked me in to racing sunday even though it's usually $30 instead of the friday night test and tune price of $20.
Well we get there and there is some kind of points contest for race cars going on so there was a lot of fast cars and dragsters which was cool but it cost us $40 ea. to race yesterday! I had brought $40 with me planning to use the extra $10 for race gas or chili dogs which ever i felt was more important at the time. So we're setting our tire pressures and i'm removing my pass. side headlight as the intercom guy says today is going to be bracket racing after everyone gets a test run and remember, WE ARE ONLY DOING 1/8 MILE RACING TODAY. So this meant i paid $40 to go up there to beat on my syncros, pray to find every gear ok, and not know what 1/4 mile e/t i'm doing?!
So it gets even worse. My first run when i was at the tree i think my clutch must have been engaging slightly as i was holding my 5500 rpms cause the clutch slipped with a nice smell netting a surprising 60' of 1.90 but it felt like a 2.2+. The car sat and cooled down for the next two hours!! until they called the street class for bracket racing. Well my next two runs were better but i could feel and smell the clutch slipping some still. ACT2100 btw, i think it was installed new last fall. My 2nd and 3rd passes I had a high 1.8 60' but my reaction times were below .600 and my dial in was with in .01 of my 1/8 mile time. My buddy says if you can keep this up you'll win the class. So i went again while feeling bad for the laser and on my fourth pass "third elimination run" i'm paired up with a V8 S-10 tubbed out that cuts almost a perfect light .507 and their dial in was a 8.33 and they ran 8.333 WOW. Not to mention i red lighted with a .407 light HA, and when i launched it bogged bad and was sputtering and breaking up under WOT. Once i eased it down the track and turned around it ran fine???? One more reason to get dsmlink. But all in all the weather was good and i had some $$ fun and ran a best 1/8mile time of 8.21 which calculates to a 12.85 in the 1/4 which is right where i hoped to be at this time.

 

[Phil1320]

Nice! At least it's back together and running......now for some full 1/4 passes! Seems like you'll be right back down there soon, you running Capitol tomorrow night?

 

[Gooberlog]

I should it looks like it will be around 80*f and partly cloudy around 5pm. I'm running straight 93 pump gas in her now though and i have the boost set to around 22 and falling off to 17ish. My logger is acting up though so i can't check to see if i'm knocking. That's why i figured i would give it a couple quick passes with good cool down.
I'm talking to a guy on here about buying a good used trans from him since my sycros are going quickly and some gears are still hard to engage at times. Also the second and third runs the clutch wasn't grabbing like it should and still slipped a bit after slipping it on the first pass. I think that it was a new 2100 installed last fall from the receipts i have. So if i did end up going, and the clutch isn't grabbing like it was a couple weeks ago then i'll still probably only be netting 1.8 60's again like on sunday. The low 1.7's a couple weeks before that felt strong though and on on stock tired suspension i think that's about it's limit. I don't know though, but this week i've been working days at work so i would probably be able to get out of there at a decent hour. What do you think?

 

[bluegs03]

hey if your not breaking it your not racing it! way to keep in the game

 

[Gooberlog]

True words. I'd really like to get this logger working again so i can keep my eye on the knock. The car is already working on getting another trans, don't want the engine to feel like it needs to move any time soon. Next time i go i'll be able to find out if the clutch is still slipping. I never had any grabbing problems with my old car on the act 2100 untill i got in to the low 12's and that was with 50-100 passes on it.

 

[Phil1320]

Travis-- the slipping clutch obviously isn't gonna help. I personally would run about 19 psi and no more. Especially on pump gas. I run 21, but it holds solid with tial external. The power at the ground from 19-21 psi is marginal with a side mount, I forget if you said you've got a FMIC on there yet. When I lived down there remember that dyno day at Altered? at 19 was 257 at the ground, 20 was 263 and 21 was 266. 9HP total at the ground. Not really gonna make a difference in 1/4 ET. Also, portwork, and O2 dump will pick up some power. So, you going tonight or is the clutch smoked?

 

[Gooberlog]

Yes i have a punishment racing FMIC on the car which seems to help but the UICP stays hot for a while but if i cool the car down with the hood up it makes a big difference. Then again we are talking about Racing in 80*f and hotter weather here. I'll lower the boost down to 19 psi to be on the safe side, yeah i remember that dyno day. That was when i truely saw how nuts you were about weight reduction. My 1g bov is leaking by 17psi so i need to do the dodge garage high boost mod to it. Also i'm running a ported SBR 2g exhaust manifold, ported 7cm turbine housing and a heavily ported 2g o2 housing going into a stock down pipe that is dumping open.
My buddy needs my help today swaping a new exhaust manifold on his grand national which should see an 11 sec pass tonight with a decent 60'. His old manifold was cracked not letting him build enough boost off the line netting him a 12.09.
I might just take my car to local test strip and see how the clutch is grabbing. If it continues to slip, I'll have to get a 2600 on the way in addition to the stock trans i have in the works. I think tonight i'll pass on racing, i'll wait till i get my bov modded and verify the clutch is holding. Then i'll be looking for that new best. Also by then i'm sure i'll have a couple more pounds out of her. She's already looking quite slim. Thanks for the tips, and i'll keep her at 19 psi on the 93pump.
Travis

 

[Phil1320]

Yes i have a punishment racing FMIC on the car which seems to help but the UICP stays hot for a while but if i cool the car down with the hood up it makes a big difference. Then again we are talking about Racing in 80*f and hotter weather here. I'll lower the boost down to 19 psi to be on the safe side, yeah i remember that dyno day. That was when i truely saw how nuts you were about weight reduction. My 1g bov is leaking by 17psi so i need to do the dodge garage high boost mod to it. Also i'm running a ported SBR 2g exhaust manifold, ported 7cm turbine housing and a heavily ported 2g o2 housing going into a stock down pipe that is dumping open.
My buddy needs my help today swaping a new exhaust manifold on his grand national which should see an 11 sec pass tonight with a decent 60'. His old manifold was cracked not letting him build enough boost off the line netting him a 12.09.
I might just take my car to local test strip and see how the clutch is grabbing. If it continues to slip, I'll have to get a 2600 on the way in addition to the stock trans i have in the works. I think tonight i'll pass on racing, i'll wait till i get my bov modded and verify the clutch is holding. Then i'll be looking for that new best. Also by then i'm sure i'll have a couple more pounds out of her. She's already looking quite slim. Thanks for the tips, and i'll keep her at 19 psi on the 93pump.
Travis

I'm still running a 1G BOV crushed that's it. It should hold for you. Gotta get at least a 2.5" downpipe, even though it dumps that neckdown is way too small....the 2100 PP will work fine with a sprung six puck disc if your PP is in good shape and will have more clamping force than the 2600/street disc that I run. I don't remember when I switched to KYB AGX/Eibach, but, I ran a best of 1.69 on stock suspension. Whenever you can start to throw the poly bushings in and eliminate all the play in the chassis. It absorbs power that you can be putting down.

I'll keep trying to think of stuff to help you....

 

[Gooberlog]

I didn't think the poly suspension mounts would make a big difference, but i guess with age and mileage there is alot of play instead of transfer. I guess the same principle is applied as the poly motor mounts which i feel make a difference.

 

[Gooberlog]

Since i last posted i have installed a 3" turbo back cat less exhaust and have a used transmission on the work bench waiting to be installed this week. I will be running c-16 next visit out. I'd like to get the car to the track a week from today, but i plan on being at car week down at the beach then. I'll be racing the car on Oct 17th at Mason Dixon at the dsmlink drag day hoping for a new best.

My wife picked me up a used laptop, and the pocket logger still isn't working, so if this trans works ok, the next step will be dsmlink for me. Here's a picture of the transmission i picked up used after i sandblasted it and painted it 4 coats of engine paint and 3 coats of clear. About a days worth of cleaning it up as it had lots of oil and gunk on it and had been sitting, but i was told it had a stock rebuild a few years ago.

 

[Gooberlog]

also forgot the car got a new alternator woo hoo!

 

[Phil1320]

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck on the 17th, I'll be running one day before you!

 

[Gooberlog]

Yeah i saw somewhere in a thread that you were planning on racing on the 16th. I also read that your planning on picking up a orriginal owner GVR4...???

 

[Phil1320]

Yeah i saw somewhere in a thread that you were planning on racing on the 16th. I also read that your planning on picking up a orriginal owner GVR4...???

TRUE, and TRUE. Yes, an original owner, unmolested, unmodded, BONE stock GVR4. Cali car and garaged for the last 19 years! Original window sticker, manuals, and the key chain that seems to be missing with most GVR4's is present and looks like there was never a key on it! It is not mint by any means, it has been driven 190,000 miles, but, it won't be the typical rust buckets that I've been seeing alot of. For some reason, many have removed the A/C from the Galants. I gotta have A/C in my daily! I was able to afford this by selling stuff on ebay over the last 4 months!

Talk to you more on it later, don't want to jack your thread!!!!!!!!!

Good luck and kick major ass on the 17th. If I had a bigger truck and a trailer of my own I would leave our dragday on the 16th and drive down after to yours for the 17th!!! That would have been cool!!!!

 

[Gooberlog]

In deed, that would be most awesome. Yeah i'm hopping the Tundra can get the job done pulling the laser down RT 70 with the U-Haul trailer. Good luck to you too.

 

[Phil1320]

In deed, that would be most awesome. Yeah i'm hopping the Tundra can get the job done pulling the laser down RT 70 with the U-Haul trailer. Good luck to you too.

Thanks!!! It's time....I'll have some update pics soon......

 

[Gooberlog]

So the used trans that i picked up (said to have been rebuilt to stock 2-3 years ago) and cleaned up is now in the car. I just have to fill the transfer case and transmission with gear oil and they'll be ready to road test. I finished late last night after the parts stores were closed. I'm about to go pick up some oils now though (8:30 am), but i have a route canal at 10:30 and i'm working from 4:30 PM - midnight. I'm really hoping that any pain or discomfort after the route canal is minor, so that i can get under the car and put some oils in her and take it for the first test drive with the new used trans.
I ran into a small problem where the shifter would not go to the left of neutral. After looking at the trans gear selectors with the shift cables off, a couple friends and I noticed that the shift cable would not retract into it's self allowing proper movement of the shift linkage. Well it's cause i bent the shift cable with my pry bar when i was removing the shift cable retaining clip. So we bent it back and now it works, to an extent. I just have to adjust the shift cables at the shifter again, since i was playing with them thinking that was the original problem.
During the transmission install I ditched the heavy stock battery and battery mount kit for a lightweight odyssey 680 with the JMF aluminum mount kit i picked up used from the guys at Punishment Racing from their race car. Charged the battery up yesterday so hopefully today i'll get to crank her over. I'll update again after the test drive. Here are some pics of the progress, let me know what you think. Thanks again for the support everyone.
Travis

 

[Phil1320]

Trav- looking killer and coming together quick! The JMF battery bracket kit is awesome! I have the 680 battery and it has been great, I don't even take it out of the car in the winter and bring it inside, just wait for the weather to warm and it fires the car right up. Mine sits in a similar spot to yours but with home-made hold downs, I like that kit alot.

Well, good luck gettin it fired up and hope all is well with the trans!

The root canal shouldn't be that bad.....I had one like 9 years ago, it just a pain gettin it done!

Let me know what happens!!!!!!

 

[SBstar]

Looking good! I too had a bent shifter cable once, bent it back and went on shifting! I used to have one of the 680 batteries as well and it worked great even through the winters of Michigan. I wish I still had it! Good luck getting it back to the track!

 

[Gooberlog]

Thanks guys. Yeah I had a 680 battery in my old white talon back in the day and had no problems from it and saves a good bit of weight so i knew i wanted to use one on the laser. None of the auto stores around here sells the amsoil or redline gear oil. So i did more research for other options for trans gear oil, and the results pointed to the mitsu evo mr gear oil. TRE and other shops are highly recommending it as well as all positive feed back from users on here. The catch is it comes in a 4 liter can that cost over $80. But i wanted to get the car done ASAP and have some good oil in it. Took the car around the block, as expected the down pipe is rubbing the drive shaft so i'll have to adjust the flange at the test pipe. But the car went in and out of all gears. I didn't have a chance yet to see if any gears grind during normal or high rev shifting or if any gear pops out of gear yet.
Tomorrow i plan to adjust the exhaust and the shift cables at the shifter that i was playing with originally when the cable was acting up. Then i'll take it for a real road test and hopefully all is good so i can take it up to Mason Dixon on the 17th to see what she has.
Thanks again.

 

[frankozz]

What did you run in the 1/8?

 

[habitatguy187]

How was the root canal? I need to have one done.