First time back at the track...

[Gooberlog]

Yep, that's what i was looking to hear. I can't wait.

 

[Gooberlog]

I almost forgot about this thread, as a quick update (about to head to the track) today will be my last test and tune race of the year probably, but it will be my first trip to the track with my new magnus SMIM. Hoping for anything in the mid 11's range. I'll catch you guys up with the details soon.

 

[Gooberlog]

So i made it to the track and it was pretty packed and cars were breaking left and right. I was lucky enough to get two runs in with in more than four hours. The first pass i missed/got locked out of fourth gear the first 3 or 4 times i attempted to get it in gear and went 12.1 with a 1.72 60' and the second run i got my new best 60' of 1.67 but shifted a little slow bogging in second a bit and carefully shifted it slowly in to fourth and ran a weak 12.05 @ 118. I was honestly hoping for something like 11.6@123 with 60's like those, but i think it would have been doable if i would have raped the trans a little harder. I did have a little more weight in the car that usual, but not much and it was only on 26psi and not the 28psi that i had it tuned for. I was thinking that maybe my trans was having trouble shifting at 8k rpm when i missed fourth, so on the second pass i shifted a little over 7k and much slower but that obviously didn't help my E/T too much. I'd like to try again for a new best before the tracks close, but it's tough to say at this point.

 

[Phil1320]

So i made it to the track and it was pretty packed and cars were breaking left and right. I was lucky enough to get two runs in with in more than four hours. The first pass i missed/got locked out of fourth gear the first 3 or 4 times i attempted to get it in gear and went 12.1 with a 1.72 60' and the second run i got my new best 60' of 1.67 but shifted a little slow bogging in second a bit and carefully shifted it slowly in to fourth and ran a weak 12.05 @ 118. I was honestly hoping for something like 11.6@123 with 60's like those, but i think it would have been doable if i would have raped the trans a little harder. I did have a little more weight in the car that usual, but not much and it was only on 26psi and not the 28psi that i had it tuned for. I was thinking that maybe my trans was having trouble shifting at 8k rpm when i missed fourth, so on the second pass i shifted a little over 7k and much slower but that obviously didn't help my E/T too much. I'd like to try again for a new best before the tracks close, but it's tough to say at this point.

Damn...bummer Trav....maybe you should get that trans worked this winter to put up with higher rpm shifts and such. It seems your trans has been your Achilles' heel this year. 1.6 60' times are perfect for street tires, so that's good that your launches are there......

 

[Gooberlog]

Yeah i found the sweet spot for launching on my set up. 19-20 psi in the tires, rear AGXs on full hard and a quick slip off the 2step at 5500 RPMs. I was talking to a dsm guy at a track before and he was asking which clutch i run. I told him ACT 2600 with a street disc. He told me that a 6puck might help with shifting at higher RPMs as the street disc doesn't release as quick. I need to look more in to this, but if this seems like the thing to do, I may try to put a 6 puck in while the engine is out. I'm trying to get the block dropped off at the machine shop soon to get the ball rolling on the engine build.

 

[Phil1320]

Yeah i found the sweet spot for launching on my set up. 19-20 psi in the tires, rear AGXs on full hard and a quick slip off the 2step at 5500 RPMs. I was talking to a dsm guy at a track before and he was asking which clutch i run. I told him ACT 2600 with a street disc. He told me that a 6puck might help with shifting at higher RPMs as the street disc doesn't release as quick. I need to look more in to this, but if this seems like the thing to do, I may try to put a 6 puck in while the engine is out. I'm trying to get the block dropped off at the machine shop soon to get the ball rolling on the engine build.

Nice! Yeah, I run 2600 with a street disc, but, I only shift high from 1-2, the 2-3 and 3-4 are only at 6400-6600. With my engine coming out in another week or two, I will most likely get a 6 puck sprung for the talon before the engine goes back in next year. I ran a 6 puck unsprung in my laser with streetlight flywheel and 2100 PP and wow I don't recommend it for a street driven car---definitely get a sprung center section......

 

[Gooberlog]

I've been searching the differences, but can't find as much info as i would like before making a purchase. Can you school me on 6 pucks?

 

[habitatguy187]

I can tell you about the ebay xtd puck discs. ALOT of people don't like the idea of springs in a puck disc, because there's more stress on them and they're more likely to pop out. However the xtd sprung hubs almost completely surround the springs, I really don't see those springs popping out, but I've been wrong before of course.

I have the xtd stage 3 sprung 6 puck in my DD Prelude, and when the time comes I'll put a xtd stage 4 (unsprung disc and supposedly a heavier PP) in the Talon. We put a stage 4 in my buddy's 2g and I don't think it's hard to drive at all. A couple nice things about puck discs are that they're lighter weight, and you also don't need such a heavy PP to be able to hold the same power as a street disc. I would compare my buddy's stage 4 to an ACT 2100 PP.

 

[Gooberlog]

So my last couple visits to the track this year were kind of a let down. Both times was 5 hours of waiting for two passes each outing. First trip i spun bad of the line and let out. The second time i got a new best 60' with the laser of 1.67 but then missed fourth (street disc at 8,000 rpms is the problem i'm thinking). The second trip out i had two passes, both of which i roasted the tires off the line. First pass i let out. The second pass was after the staging lanes were closed so i knew it was my last pass so i kept in it spinning badly through first. I shifted to 2nd but bogged bad from the spinning and then proceeded to miss fourth gear once or twice. That last pass i got a 1.8 60' and ran 12.1 @ 115 i think. Not bad all things considering, but I was hoping for a new best.

As always, i was still happy to go home driving my dsm under it's own power with no issues. The very last track outing this year and proably for all of 2010 was the first time i took my car to the track and did not get a new best. The time before was the first time i did not get a new best E/T that i can remember, but i did get a new best 60', so all in all, i'm pretty satisfied. These passes were at 28-29psi on 112 octane. Atleast i can still drive the car around a bit until the new block is ready. I ordered some small stuff during black friday and would like to drop the block off at the machine shop this monday if possible. I'm excited to get this motor built and really give that holset what it wants...About another 10psi!!

 

[Phil1320]

So my last couple visits to the track this year were kind of a let down. Both times was 5 hours of waiting for two passes each outing. First trip i spun bad of the line and let out. The second time i got a new best 60' with the laser of 1.67 but then missed fourth (street disc at 8,000 rpms is the problem i'm thinking). The second trip out i had two passes, both of which i roasted the tires off the line. First pass i let out. The second pass was after the staging lanes were closed so i knew it was my last pass so i kept in it spinning badly through first. I shifted to 2nd but bogged bad from the spinning and then proceeded to miss fourth gear once or twice. That last pass i got a 1.8 60' and ran 12.1 @ 115 i think. Not bad all things considering, but I was hoping for a new best.

As always, i was still happy to go home driving my dsm under it's own power with no issues. The very last track outing this year and proably for all of 2010 was the first time i took my car to the track and did not get a new best. The time before was the first time i did not get a new best E/T that i can remember, but i did get a new best 60', so all in all, i'm pretty satisfied. These passes were at 28-29psi on 112 octane. Atleast i can still drive the car around a bit until the new block is ready. I ordered some small stuff during black friday and would like to drop the block off at the machine shop this monday if possible. I'm excited to get this motor built and really give that holset what it wants...About another 10psi!!

Ahhh...bummer man.......maybe it's a bit too cold out. I used to have some issues with missing shifts a few visits to the strip.....wondering if your shift forks are worn...mine were and the syncros too, after the new trans, the only missed shifts have been my error....

Well then, onto next year......should see you in the low 11's at 125 or so for starters right?

 

[Gooberlog]

I'm hoping so. I really want to be surprised by a bottom end that isn't low on compression. If things work out and i can get some money saved up, i may try to overhaul my orriginal trans in my shed.

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Today i dropped off my spare block at the machine shop with my internals. Some things were known and some surprises when i talked to the machinist. He pointed out that since i'm running the ARP rod and main bolts/studs i'll have to align hone the block (an extra $130) and I told him that i need the deck surface to be super smooth to work well with my cometic head gasket (another $100 to deck the block miror finish) and we got to talking about my goals with this engine being to reach between 500-600 awhp with an upwards of 35+psi and reving it from 8000-8500 rpms. With this being said he strongly recommended I balance the assembly (another $225). I agree with all of his insight and his prices seem fair, but these unexpected surprises just doubled my initial estimate. I guess i'll have to hit the classifieds hard and try to line up some side work.

It's pretty exciting for me to be doing all of this mainly as i want to see how that car runs with strong compression and some more boost on that Holset. I just hope i can raise the money i need to pay the machine shop by the time they get the work done on the engine. Not to mention i have a bunch of stuff external to the engine that i need to buy still once i put it all together. I know the track will be open before we know it, I just want to give it my best try to get all of this done in the off season so i have no regrets.

 

[Phil1320]

I'm hoping so. I really want to be surprised by a bottom end that isn't low on compression. If things work out and i can get some money saved up, i may try to overhaul my orriginal trans in my shed.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today i dropped off my spare block at the machine shop with my internals. Some things were known and some surprises when i talked to the machinist. He pointed out that since i'm running the ARP rod and main bolts/studs i'll have to align hone the block (an extra $130) and I told him that i need the deck surface to be super smooth to work well with my cometic head gasket (another $100 to deck the block miror finish) and we got to talking about my goals with this engine being to reach between 500-600 awhp with an upwards of 35+psi and reving it from 8000-8500 rpms. With this being said he strongly recommended I balance the assembly (another $225). I agree with all of his insight and his prices seem fair, but these unexpected surprises just doubled my initial estimate. I guess i'll have to hit the classifieds hard and try to line up some side work.

It's pretty exciting for me to be doing all of this mainly as i want to see how that car runs with strong compression and some more boost on that Holset. I just hope i can raise the money i need to pay the machine shop by the time they get the work done on the engine. Not to mention i have a bunch of stuff external to the engine that i need to buy still once i put it all together. I know the track will be open before we know it, I just want to give it my best try to get all of this done in the off season so i have no regrets.

Wow, that's gonna be a killer bottom end though......the balancing will be key, especially with no balance shafts in the car. When everything is balanced, the engine is much smoother and revs more freely.

Sorry I missed the post up above. When you don't have a sprung center section on the clutch, ALOT of bearing noise and such makes its way out of the trans, it's easily audible. I had the ACT 2100PP with 6 puck unsprung, and ACT streetlight flywheel in my second Laser FWD. It was awesome except for the noise---sounded like bearings were worn. The engagement was great, but much like and on/off switch. Never any slip. The 2100 PP with a 6 puck has more holding power than my 2600 PP/street disc in the Talon. I might go to 6 puck when I put the car back together, not because I need more holding power, but, I would imagine there is a tiny bit of "slip" when it engages and I may be losing a tiny bit there. 6-puck won't slip.

Well, good luck with the build, it sounds awesome. I'll be in touch!

 

[Gooberlog]

Thanks for the insight on the 6 puck Phil. I still don't understand the benefit between sprung or unsprung 6 puck though. The only difference i know is that the unsprung doesn't have the chance of any springs poping out causing failure, but as you said the trade off is it's noisy. So are those the only differences between sprung or unsprung discs or 6pucks?