Finally getting some things done, need some help though

[pwayzjellyroll]

So I finally got around to doing a few things to get my car back up and running. I changed my coolant temperature sensor and pcv valve. Lets just say I didn't exactly let the car cool down long enough, and wow it was hot. But anyways, I still need to do a clutch and power steering pump. I am thinking of buying the pump used. My only plans for the car are to run around 15 lbs of boost or so. I'm not sure if a stock replacement clutch is going to hold up to this. If it will that's great, if not I'll have to go for something a little beefier. I'm on a budget because of school and such so I need to think about my options. Also, is there a way to tell if I need a new flywheel without dropping the trans? I'd like to just resurface if possible but I'm not sure if it is.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

You cannot inspect the flywheel unless you drop the transmission. You'd have to anyway since you're doing a clutch. After you get the trans out, take it to a local machine shop (I took mine to NAPA machine shop in Westfield, he took 3 hours and charged me $60 to resurface) and have them machine it to the OEM specification of .608-.613. At 15psi, any good conditioned clutch will hold. Since you're better off buying a new clutch for your maintenance, going with an ACT2100 or ACT2600 with a street disc should be great, plus it'll hold if you ever want to make more power. Also make sure you use a NEW OEM throw out bearing, DO NOT use the ACT TOB they give you.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

My mechanic said something to be about possibly not being able to resurface it due to cracks from heat or something, is this true? If so does it happen often? If I don't have to buy a new flywheel that will make things better, then I can buy an act 2100 with the streetdisk and not break my bank completely. The OEM TOB thing I read and was going to do anyways just for safe measure. I saw the XTD Stage 3 clutch + flywheel from ebay.. but I'm unsure about it. I've seen mixed reviews saying its good, it's bad, lasted 2k miles, lasted 20k miles. So I'm unsure to go that route. I don't really launch my car, I don't drive at the track. I basically use it wherever I need to go and don't want to worry about romping the gas on the highway boosting 15psi and having something slip. I dunno

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Well, if you need reliability, I would shy away from ANYTHING ebay. I do NOT trust those ebay clutches after seeing several of them explode on my friend's 240 (he did it 3 times ). Yes, some flywheels are not able to be machined, you can immediately tell when you pull the flywheel if there are actual spiderweb cracks on really deep heat marks/frays in the mating surface.

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info