The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Finally, a good quiet muffler

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

So is the secondary resonator capped?? Doesn't it affect the flow of the exhaust theoretically? Although the dyno graph indicated that the changes are not that significant.
-Brian
 
BlackGSX2g, I would love to hear some other vids of your setup. Preferably, some good drive by vids of the muffler closed and then open. I'd also be interested to see some inside the cabin while cruising and at higher rpms and such. I'm heavily considering doing one of these this year. I've searched and found a bunch of vids and the mufflers work great, but I havn't found any vids of what I'm looking for.


T_K, I dig that setup, I just don't know if a 2g has enough room underneath to run that. It looks like that only works well if you put the muffer off of a critical bend and theres really only one bend on a 2g setup. I'm gonna check it out though for sure.
 
BlackGSX2g, I would love to hear some other vids of your setup. Preferably, some good drive by vids of the muffler closed and then open. I'd also be interested to see some inside the cabin while cruising and at higher rpms and such. I'm heavily considering doing one of these this year. I've searched and found a bunch of vids and the mufflers work great, but I havn't found any vids of what I'm looking for.


T_K, I dig that setup, I just don't know if a 2g has enough room underneath to run that. It looks like that only works well if you put the muffer off of a critical bend and theres really only one bend on a 2g setup. I'm gonna check it out though for sure.

Unfortunately it will have to wait. I tried to get some drive by passes that day, but it was so windy it drowned out the sound of the car.

That was one of the last days I had the car out for the year, so once the salt gets off the road up here, I will get some good cabin & drive by shots.

In the cabin going 75 with the flapper closed, all I really hear is noise from the engine and from hitting bumps. I did get a clip on my way to work one morning, but the camera amplified the sound so much that when I played it back it sounded nothing like when I was actually in the car. I'll play with it again when the weather warms up.

T_K - My other option was something like that. I was thinking about cutting out the spare tire well and putting in another muffler. Then have my QTP flapper decide where the exhaust went...i.e quiet muffler, or can muffler. I decided that was too complex, and I didn't want to hack my car like that. Especially after finding this.
 
The nice thing about this setup is that you don't need to switch between mufflers so all you need to figure is where to put the second muffler. I do agree we don't have much space under our cars' rears.

I found this pic of my car, it looks like this is a good place to fit a hidden second muffler, however some creative work with the piping will be required.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
I've got a 3" turbo back that had a Dynomax muffler on it. The muffler rotted from the inside out so I cut it off and welded a stock muffler to the 3" pipe and then added a DMH electric cutout right before the rear diff. Works great, quiet when I want it and dumped when I want. Whats cool about the DMH is its very fast and you and open the valve 1/4" to fully open. If you open the valve only a little it sounds just like an aftermarket exhaust, all the way open sounds dumped obviously, closed runs through the stock muffler and sounds stock. It also looks stock from the back, nobody ever bothers me!


http://www.dmhperformance.com/
 
Pretty neat. I have a 3in dp w/ a 3in electric cutout going into 2.5 catback and stock muffler.
I was always under the assumption though that this type of setup still caused a bit of backpressure even with the cutout open since the straight part of the Y section coming off the cutout is what goes into the smaller piping and stock muffler. Plus with my cutout open I can occasionally smell exhaust fumes reaching the cabin since its basically open DP when opened. Yours seems to be a better solution for having a cutout setup car.
 
The prices of these mufflers kills. It's about over $500 to ship over to the USA. This would be cool to have but it's not cool for its price.
 
The prices of these mufflers kills. It's about over $500 to ship over to the USA. This would be cool to have but it's not cool for its price.

Over $500usd just for shipping? Are you sure you read that right on your quote?

I know there were a few people emailing another company called Raceland here in the states about making a 3" one. The biggest they currently do is 2.5" I believe. They said if they had enough interest they would step it up to 3". Price was WAY less.
 
Reviving this thread....

Has anyone else tried this muffler? They make them with a 3" inlet now and I just placed an order. My N1 boiler has got to go.

Link or it didn't happen! :hellyeah:

I am thinking user definable settings through ecmlink....
 
I think VAREX has always had a 3" inlet muffler? Or are you talking about the Raceland one?

Link or it didn't happen! :hellyeah:

I am thinking user definable settings through ecmlink....

I am referring to the varex one, I guess I miss understood when I read this thread. The link on the first page has them but are out of stock, I got mine here Best Mufflers the Muffler and Exhaust Specialists it's still pricy but should be well worth it.

I did give it some thought about controlling it with ecmlink, hmmm
 
Glad to see someone else trying it! I hadn't thought of controlling the flap with ecmlink. Have to set up a timed relay, but it could work.

Post up your results when you get it!
 
chris from map says that if he can get a bunch of orders for group buy he could get them for around 400 shipped or cheaper. But he doesnt say anything about getting group buys from other sites. I wonder if we can get a big group buy for these. hmm
 
I think that controlling it with ECMlink would be the best idea. Then you have no worry about switching open/closed. With it closed do you see quicker spool time since there is a lower volume to fill? I would assume spool time is increased with it closed, but would choke up top. Correct me if I'm wrong. I can see some sort of controlled opening being very beneficial in something like autocross. Say you use ECMlink to control the valve by throttle position, engine load, and RPM. With it closed at lower RPM's you will get the quick spool and then open the valve top end to allow better flow. That way you can drive around normally with it closed, but when you get on the throttle it will open up. Sound about right?
 
Also, IDK how well they flow while closed, but any WOT pulls with the valve closed may increase the risk of knock due to the increased back pressure. Having the ECU control it makes it a very nifty mod as well as a little easier to tune with. < All speculation though.
 
Glad to see someone else trying it! I hadn't thought of controlling the flap with ecmlink. Have to set up a timed relay, but it could work.

Post up your results when you get it!



Yeah, it looks like it's just you who has this muffler installed for now. How has it held up so far?

I might just try and get it to work with ecmlink if it's not to much trouble. My idea now is, to have it close the flap when cruising and open it when it senses heavy load or full throttle. I don't know if it will be possible but I'll see when I install it.
 
Yeah, it looks like it's just you who has this muffler installed for now. How has it held up so far?

I might just try and get it to work with ecmlink if it's not to much trouble. My idea now is, to have it close the flap when cruising and open it when it senses heavy load or full throttle. I don't know if it will be possible but I'll see when I install it.

It's held up pretty well. After it's stored or not driven for months the valve tends to stick a bit, but a few sprays of WD-40 in the tip and toggling the close/open button cures that. I store it with the valve open to try to stop it from freezing up. I'll probably grease the shaft & plate edges next winter for storage.

I don't think this really helps spool-up at all, so on that note I would have no desire for having this be continuously variable. When I take my daily cruise to/from work, I just want to drive normally regardless of throttle position. If the mood strikes and I want to punch it on an on-ramp, or pass some slow semi in the right lane, I'll open the valve and drop the throttle.

As far a performance gains go, I believe this has none. It is a huge restriction in the exhaust on WOT, and I couldn't build more than a few lbs of boost at WOT. I might be interested in having an auto switch wired in to ecmlink at 100% WOT, but for anything less than that, I'd rather control with my remote.
 
How long does the valve take to actuate from the closed to the full open position? 2 seconds? If so, you guys that are trying to actuate it via V3, might want to use 70%ish throttle position settings for the criteria. You don't want to be WOT and waiting for the valve to open. Also, a delay for it to close would be nice, so that it doesn't start to close, upon throttle lift between shifts. My .02
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you ever happen to get a track recording so we can hear what it sounds like while it screams?

A recording of one of my passes at the track? I have a crappy run here. This is with the valve all the way open obviously:

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/5M-TsLoLKEo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

flyineagletsi said:
How long does the valve take to actuate from the closed to the full open position? 2 seconds? If so, you guys that are trying to actuate it via V3, might want to use 70%ish throttle position settings for the criteria. You don't want to be WOT and waiting for the valve to open. Also, a delay for it to close would be nice, so that it doesn't start to close, upon throttle lift between shifts. My .02

To go from closed to fully open is maybe 2-3 seconds, but really only takes a second before it releases enough backpressure to feel power again.

But then again, I've never opened the valve while I'm at full throttle so I don't know if there is too much backpressure on the flapper to even open under those conditions.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top