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few questions battery,ac, power steering delete

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,411
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I have a few questions and couldn't find the answers. The main goal is to free up room in the engine bay. I want to remove the power steering pump, the big ac line beside the timing belt and lower my battery. This is on a 95 talon.

1. Is there a way I can remove that big ac line next to the timing belt without removing the whole ac?

2. I saw a few threads on people lowering the battery down, but what do I do with the charcoal canister?

3.I want to get rid of the power steering pump. Ive heard I can loop lines together. Does anyone have a pic of these lines. The water pump can run without this belt on also? So how or can I just remove the pump and belt?
 
I have a few questions and couldn't find the answers. The main goal is to free up room in the engine bay. I want to remove the power steering pump, the big ac line beside the timing belt and lower my battery. This is on a 95 talon.

1. Is there a way I can remove that big ac line next to the timing belt without removing the whole ac?

2. I saw a few threads on people lowering the battery down, but what do I do with the charcoal canister?

3.I want to get rid of the power steering pump. Ive heard I can loop lines together. Does anyone have a pic of these lines. The water pump can run without this belt on also? So how or can I just remove the pump and belt?



#1 Why remove the line and leave everything else in place? Leaving the system open like that will eventually render it useless once enough debris gets into it. May as well just pull the whole thing.

#3 Yes you can loop the lines, and remove the pump and belt, if i remember correctly the water pump is run off the timing belt. I know on some cars it is separate but i'm about 98% sure thats not the case here.

*edit*

Something else for #3, my N/T is a BOAT without power steering, it seriously feels like someone put a brick wall on my front tires. If you wanna do a proper removal and have an easier steering wheel, look for a manual rack. I've heard of some people even just modding the power rack and essentially making it a manual rack.
 
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Hey bud:

I'll answer in the order your questioned :)

1: No, not while retaining AC.. if you want it out of the way and money is no object, a custom hydrolic hose company can do it.. But you are gonna pay a lot of $$$$ If your willing to remove AC, you acn make it go bye bye

2: Ditch the charcoal canister. Assuming you have a DSM link, you can make any check engine lights go away. But you probably wont get any in the first place. Just leave any control solenoids hooked up electrically and it will be fine. You can plop a mini battery (motorcycle, lawn tractor, buschurs million dollar dies all the time battery, etc.....) right on the front sub frame and just make a tie down bracket. Peeps do it all the time. (though for weight distro, you should think of just moving it to the back which removes it from the engine bay all together)

3: Remove everything power steering line and pump wise except for the pulley that runs the belt to the power steering pump. (just cut the belt) on the rack, run a loop from the two power steering fluid lines. One is in and one is out. Just loop them together so nothing leaks. Easy easy. Keep in mind, non power steering on a rack that is supposed to have it is NOTICEABLY harder than non power steering from the factory. That being said, it never stopped people from doing it haha. Just get big arm muscles ;)

Hope this helps!

Aaron
 
Why not just put the battery in the rear. Do a mild wire tuck. Fully remove ac
 
So if I remove the ac gases and what not, I CAN just remove that line? Ill probably remove all of it.

To remove the charcoal canister, can I just let the lines hang?

So after I loop the lines, can I remove the pump and bracket completely? The water pump will run fine?
 
Hey bud:

IN order of your questions.

1: If you don't want AC, yeah, remove everything. Including the compressor pump, all the lines, the condenser (radiator thing by the radiator) and such. No worries. The bracket is sort of needed for the 1/2 shaft. You can remove/cut part of it away or leave the whole thing. its up to you and you can figure it out when your in there. Its pretty straight forward.

2: yup, remove the canister, and any hoses that are still there in your face. No worries.

3:yes water pump is fine.. In order, the water pump is driven by the belt that turns the alternator.. In turn, the water pump turns the power steering pump.. There are two belts on the water pump. Cut the belt going to the power steering pump and leave the double pulleys on the water pump.. Done deal. Then you can remove everything, including the power steering pump and its bracket and lines etc...

Hope that helps!

Aaron
 
Ok I'll let everyone know what happens as I go. Is there a way I can just remove that fat line besides the timing belt without the other stuff? And when I remove the power steering, can I remove the fluid bottle and everything? What are the lines running along the diver side right along the fender there silve?
 
Hey bud:

Those are AC and Power steering lines.. Once the gas is removed (either properly, or purging to atmosphere.. Your call) and your committed to removing the power steering, you can remove all of them.

The fat line between the timing belt cover and strut town is the AC line. The two smaller lines over the top of the strut tower are the power steering lines.

Hope that helps!

Aaron
 
OK Im going to be removing my ac. I didnt have ac because my compressor is bad and gthe bearing is bad, but anyway I went to release everything by taking of the "H" and pushing down with a screwdriver and a rag but no green came out. It was all foam. Is this normal? Am I doing it right?
 
i would consider buying an actual manual steering rack. i bought mine from ebay and it feels great. i think it is better to do the swap compared to driving around with a power steering rack that does not have power steering. i believe i bought a reconditioned rack for about $90 if i remember correctly. it came with new brackets and bushings to mount it. the outer tie rods were the only parts i had to buy separate.
 
I hope you have dsm link. Its well worth the money and you don't want to get a bunch of check engine light codes when u start removing emission things. When you remove all that remove the two brackets under the battery and you can just drop the battery down to the crossmember you will how ever need to extend your ground or ground it to somewhere lower on the firewall.
 
What will you be using this car for? Have you thought through the consequences of no power steering on a front-heavy, front-wheel drive? What can you bench?
 
I agree I'm 6"2 and a country boy and
Daily drive a Honda del sol and it doesn't
Have power steering ( didn't come with from factory)
And it's not exactly a 77 pick up but it
Still kinda sucks parking and tight stuf
Like that but do what you want LOL
 
I think Im going to reconsider the power steering delete. I do have dsmlink. This isnt my daily driver anymore. I just removed all my ac and cruise control. Im very happy the way it turned out. Im going to be removing my emmisions stuff, at least the charcoal canister so I can lower my battery. The ac compressor was a pain to get out. Im trying to figure out if I should remove the emmisions stuff or leave everything there pluged in tucked away. Any thaughts? I heard ill have warm up problems if I remove?
 
Before and after but not done yet.
 

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You can do an MR2 electric steering pump and mount it at the fender, Under neath the steering reservoir, and you can even run the line from inside the fender and lines won't be visible... But you have to use flex hoses for it, to rout them through the fender..

About the Battery, You can remove it or move it to the back of the Block, right on the Subframe,, Just make a bracket so you can hold the canister on the Subframe..

You can even relocate your cruise control to the back of the block (if you really need it).

If you are not removing the Sensors at the Fire Wall,,, Then Bring all the sensors all the way down, So they are not visible, and Your engine will look way more clean..

I hope this helps.

Wire Tuck. - Shaving engine bay. DSMtuners Gallery

Forgot to mention,, Try to hide all the vacuum hoses and see if you can reroute the Throttle cable from behind your Intake.
 
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having a '95 you may or may not have an OBDII equipped vehicle as it wasn't mandatory until '96. For beating the emissions even if your engine light is on it is still possible to beat the (tailpipe sniffer) emission test. also now that this isn't your primary vehicle, if you drive less than 5,000 miles in a year (your previous mileage will be written on the inside of the sticker) you will be exempt from testing. every state has it's own rules and such. Also an audi came into the shop a while ago, and had one of those braille (sp) batteries, man those are tiny. personally I'm thinking of swapping my AC condenser out for a FMIC.
 
Main point on removing the sensors is Just the CEL, which You will not know when there is something wrong going on with your car because there will be no warning Light (CEL).

About Smog.
He can put all the sensors and canister back in there, do Smog and take them off, and problem Solved.

About the Battery..
I fit a good size Battery in there, I just moved the Fuel Filter to a side, But,nothing major.

Top the OP,,

Here is how I relocate my Cruise Control.

I still have Cruise Control, AC and Power Steering, I just delete the Canister, Vacuum hoses and Sensors (at the Firewall).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/417102-cruise-control-relocate-remove.html
 
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