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Exhaust Cut-out [Merged 8-9] cut out bypass

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Boost cutouts ftw, pulled over for obscene noise violations?
I would use a matte black turn down on the end of that, keep some of the carbon buildup off of the bottom half of the car.
 
That's pretty slick. In the vid, it opens at 11psi, and I see that the arm is adjustable, but what's the lowest setting?

I have an electric cutout as well, and if it was boost-controlled I'd want it open at no more than 5psi, as having it open makes a bigger difference at lower rpms on my car than higher. Once I'm spooled up, I flow the same peak amount of air open or closed, but it peaks 1Krpm earlier with it open.
 
Any electric cutout can be boost referenced if you have AEM. Just use one of the outputs to send a signal to a relay once the boost threshold has been reached. BAM, boost cut out.
 
My question is why? I would want full control over the cutout instead of it being controlled by boost. Basically, every time you go into boost, it sounds like a monster. For a street car I'd prefer to have an electric cutout so I can choose when I want to run it open. For a track car, hell you might as well go with a side exhaust. This is just being fancy.
 
this electric cutout's gear motor's are weak and slow
in the instructions clearly says that you can't open it @ high rpm's
and it opens in 5 seconds so it's too slow for racing
you can't send constant voltage to the motor or you will damage it
also when close they tend to rattle thats because there is no force keeping it shut

believe me if had owned various electric cut outs and they have disadvanteges

why switch to boost activated ?
-no electronics involved
-opens instantly
-helps with traction (on FWD my case)
-constant pressure on the valve helps keep it shut
*optional, if you want to keep it close even in boost just put a solenoid on the boost/vacuum line to the wastegate with a switch

the wastegate i ordered starts to open @ 3psi and is fully open @ 7psi
sometimes i wish my cutout could open instantly when i have to change lanes
 
Mr Gasket company (aka Holley) makes a manual cut out that has a locking cable. You have to call Summit about it as they don't list it on their website. I believe Lokar was going to make something as well but I never heard anything more about it other then rumors...
 
should i got with an automatic cut out or a manual cut out? i knwo its nice to have an automatic cut out for convenience but at some point and time the thing will mess up and have to worry about it sealing off correctly VS a manual which is a lot cheaper and will never leak. thoughts???
 
Go electric. I love my QTP cutout, beats the pants off of crawling under the car and unbolting bolts covered in grime/dirt/oil/etc everytime I feel like having a louder car, I hold a switch for 5 seconds and voila, open exhaust.
 
i was planning on buying a QTP but do you have a website to race ready? id liek to check them out

wow nevermind that i just saw the website and they are running 215 for a single cut out not counting the ypipe for it, thats a little pricey
 
My QTP seals fine, gets nearly daily use and has held up in all seasons. Warranties are for those who make shoddy products.

Race Ready Performance // Electric Exhaust Cutouts

QTP » Electric Exhaust Cutouts


The race ready is $219 without a Y pipe.

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The QTP is $215 with a stainless steel Y pipe (or $165 without).

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If you're a cheap a$$ like me you could use a Chevy Colorado/Hummer H3 Electronic Throttle body. It measures Just over 3" in Diameter and I was able to get one on Ebay for 24 dollars. I use a Potentiometer (volume knob) as my activator for the cutout. Turn the knob all the way up and the exhaust opens up!

Only mod I had to do was block off the Idle air port.
 
My buddy Dan used a QTP on his car and it was leaking after a few months of use. I have yet to experience any problem with my Race Ready on my car. Maybe Dan's was a fluke, but it's not covered under warranty, so he was sh1t out of luck anyway. I don't expect any issues with my RR, but if I do I can remove it, and exchange it same day for a brand new one.
 
Mine closes completely and I used locknuts on the bolts that hold it to the Y pipe. The only problem I've had was ground clearance, mine is right after the downpipe and it took some work to make it fit and still be able to survive our lovely potholed roads we have while being daily driven. As the old car guy saying goes "99% of part failures are installer error".

Jeff99gs, any pics of your setup? It sounds interesting.
 
I dont have any pics of it mounted on the car but I will take some soon. Here is a pic of the electric throttle body that I used. I figured Chevy has to make it fairly durable to be used as a Throttle body. I'm just curious as to how well it will hold up to the heat.

It seals perfect tho..

I also used my old 420a throttle body as a manual cable Cutout on my Jeep and It has been working fine for 4 years! The only thing I notice is that once a year I have to clean a layer of carbon build up from around the hole. Sometimes that crud gets in there and keeps it from sealing well.
 

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It turned out to fit very well
But i have to shorten the arm that the actuator moves because right now
it only opens half way, but it opens :)
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