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Exhaust Cut-out [Merged 8-9] cut out bypass

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Pfffft.

But I live in a state where inspections are few and far between...could definitely be a problem in many other places though.
 
I had this idea about a year ago. Never thought it would be worth it. I was wrong. Looks easier than I thought.
 
Here is a video of it on the car.


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^As above any more info on boost cutouts, maybe ones that aren't ridiculously priced?

I have a DMH and it is awesome, I had a question about it and I called them and the guys are cool as hell, its covered by a 4 yr warranty too.

I want to go to a boost activated cutout though so that the response is the same each time.
 
It looks plenty strong to me, but it is horribly overpriced.


I have an electric cut-out in my garage with a burned up motor. It would be cool to weld up a bracket and mount a wastegate actuator to it and see how it works... Maybe another winter project down the line.

Mr Gasket company (aka Holley) makes a manual cut out that has a locking cable. You have to call Summit about it as they don't list it on their website. I believe Lokar was going to make something as well but I never heard anything more about it other then rumors...
Old post, but I figured I'd add to it.

The Mr. Gasket cutout is a cast iron body with only 2" inlet and outlet. It's controlled by a $3 carb choke cable and the flapper doesn't seal well at all. It's virtually useless to any of us.

Also, Holley doesn't own Mr. Gasket. Prestolite does.
 
I have an electric cut-out in my garage with a burned up motor. It would be cool to weld up a bracket and mount a wastegate actuator to it and see how it works... Maybe another winter project down the line.

My motor burned up in two years time, and it's $50 to replace, so I've just got a blockoff plate on it for now. It's from Badlanz btw. Overall, the cutout itself is pretty nice, and seals really well when the motor cooperates. I'm thinking about going the boost-actuated route as well, though, for the replacement.

EDIT: I just discovered that the issue with it was a broken wiring connection at the motor, and that the motor itself is still good. So two years into use, the motor is holding up. A quick solder and I'll be back in business.
 
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I suppose I'll share mine. It's a 3" Race Ready electric cut-out. I split the downpipe right in front of the oil pan. It functions great and I'm very happy with it.

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Nice and clean. I like the side exit via the cutout. Mine is essentially in the same location, but welded into the passenger side of the DP, and exits through a short (4") pipe towards the ground.
 
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