Exhaust Cut-out [Merged 8-9] cut out bypass

[fulanititoo8198]

You might as well just dump the cutout right there at the downpipe and have a stock exhaust. That is how I have it except no cutout just v band. Plus if you have a stock exhaust you either want to be sleeper or don't want the cops seeing it. There is no point to have it sticking out the bumper in that case. Electric cutouts are to expensive and leak often, you hit a bump and it's done.

 

[turboglenn]

That sucks, it would be really nice to have a cat, nice quiet muffler and a full factory exhaust for daily driving, then as soon as you're ready for some power, just flip the switch and go... I can't speak for reliability as the 55 chevy we have them on is a trailer queen for the most part, he cruises it on weekends to the local car spots, but definately not a daily driver.

 

[420a-t]

What about the manual cut-outs and having the wing-nuts on the outside of the bumper, so for race- day or for the night you can just run that? I already have a 2.5" dp to 3" back (no cat) but I wanted to try something different and I've always loved the looks of Jake Montgomerey's (evil_eagle) exhaust. Would there be enough room? If you could to the manual cut-out, would it be bad to have the wing nuts and plate that far away from the actual cutout? Thanks

 

[Kevin Jewer]

It has been done, but I don't know if info or pics have ever been posted on this site. Many people have it exit behind the front tire with oval exhaust tubing as well. The simple answer is that with some fabrication skills, you can dump the cutout through the roof if you want to. That being said, I'll ramble on about my next system I plan to test.

In MA, manual cutouts are just as illegal as electric ones, so I'd rather not have to ass around with the wing nuts. My next exhaust build for the MightyMax is going to use a Flowtech Warlock muffler, which has a cap that can be removed to make it a straight pipe (with the cap on it's a typical "turbo muffler" with the S shaped exhaust path). I'm replacing the cap with my ATP boost actuated cutout. It's much more robust than the electric cutouts, and use a wastegate actuator to actuate the valve. I have the solenoids and small pressure tank left over from when I used it as an inline baffle on the EVO which allows me, with a 3 position switch, to make it always closed, always open, or boost actuated. With a resonated test pipe in the cat location it's still techinically legal at my local track, which requires a muffler. If the cops see it or hear it on the street though I'm toast, but that's life. It's up to me to keep that bi*** closed, which will pass the exhaust through the RTP and the muffler with a turndown, which should be quiet enough for a truck even in the Communistwealth of Massachussetts. [/ramble]

Edit> Jayracing.com has some plates to pass the WG exhaust through the bumper without burning the shit out of it. I'm sure someone sells 2.5 or 3" versions to pass the cutout exhaust.

 

[slowgsr]

might as well just dump it right after the downpipe, just tuck it up so it dosent hang and you should be ok unless you bottom out really bad, then you may need to replace other parts as well.

these images are of a honda, but gives you the idea.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

This is from a supra. The car looks and sounds amazing. You can hear the cutout halfway.

YouTube - Supra TT HKS Exhaust with Cut-Out / Cutout

James

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I can see it fine. not sure why you cant.

Look up supra exhaust cutout on youtube. Only one there. Sounds sick.

James

 

[DSMunknown]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/254900-exhaust-cutout-vs-full-3-a.html

 

[project_tsi]

I run a QTP 3" electric cutout in my downpipe. Works great. Flip a switch and boom!

 

[brute]

In terms of being on a 4 cylinder as opposed to 8, SRT4 guys have been doing this for a long time. As a matter of fact, there's a company (Needswings) offering full downpipes with the built in electric cut out. The car with the cut out open, the exhaust is extremely loud (which doesn't seem to bother some people).

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Project tsi, by any chance you have a clip of your cutout. The 6 banger supra sounds like a v10 once he opens up. What does yours sound like?

James

 

[desolateboosted]

I'm in the process of custom making my cutout downpipe. I'm going with the QTP 3". It will mate up to the stock catback so when it's closed the car will be quiet. Opened up will give full power. I've been pulled over one too many times for loud exhaust so I'm tired of it. This is also going to be on a fwd, stock turbo.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Ive got a 3 inch cutout welded into my megan downpipe and then I have a stock exhaust. I like it. Its nice and quiet for daily driving, then loud as shit when I need it. Currently I'm just using a wingnut block off plate, but will be purchasing the electronic valve whenever I get back to the states. You cant deny the performance of a cutout. No catback will always outflow a catback. Mine is tucked away nicely as well. I have a GST so theres plenty of room down there. Id take some pics and put up some sound clips but Im stationed in Japan for a while so Im away from my baby. I should get separation pay haha.

 

[desolateboosted]

Going to be doing my custom exhaust this weekend. For those of you using an electric cutout what wire/area are you getting/tapping the switched 12v power source from? I'm going with the QTP and it says to use a switched 12v source, which probably means power on when the car is on. Doing this on a 1g fwd.

 

[slowgsr]

Im guessing the cutout is low current..

Do you have a distribution block anywhere in your car that you have installed for the distribution of any 12V + sources for anything else you have installed? Or have you just tapped into here, cut into this etc..?

Your best bet would be to install a fuseable distribution block under the dash somewhere hidden but easy to get to, you could use some #8 AWG or # 6 to wire it, using an inline fuse from a stereo system, the cheap kits would work great and give you everything you need as far as wire and fuses. Then just go from the distribution block with like a 10A fuse to your cutout, the overcurrent device protects the conductor, so 10A will be good with 16AWG wire.

Think of it as like adding your own mini fuse panel, like stock but for accessories , this is the proper way, ofcourse you probably wont take my advice and do it the wrong way, however i wont contribute any knowledge on doing things improper, well atleast improper to me.

 

[turboglenn]

+1 to the above. Just run new power from the battery and use a relay to setup a trigger from your cigar lighter or another switched signal. Now you better get a voltmeter and know what you're doing or i see an electrical fire in the near future. If you haven't wired in enough extra goodies that you know where teh +12v sources are ,your best bet would be to use teh cigar lighter to turn on a relay when you switch teh ignition on. That way there no more load on the cigar lighter fuse and your relay and power wire from teh battery will be the circuit for teh cut out. Use a 10 amp fuse and 16 guage wire.. and for a relay get a 20 or 30 amp single pole, double throw relay ..basically your everyday automotive relay, that way you can wire it to have power both directions for opening and closing it. But you will have tohave a switch as well. Hopefully you're a little more expereinced in wiring than you led on with your original question, because doing this right will involve some simple, but confusing to the first timer wiring. Doing it wrong may be easier, but you stand more chance of electrical fires that way (the way i'm not going to describe)

Or did your setup come with everything an you just need a power source? If so and there's 2 power sources, one to constant and one to switched you have to run constant from the abtter prety much, and the ACC or switched can be run to the cigarrete lighter or a few other things. I use the cigarette lighter for all my triggers that need to come on with the key

 

[project_tsi]

Project tsi, by any chance you have a clip of your cutout. The 6 banger supra sounds like a v10 once he opens up. What does yours sound like?

James

I don't have any clips, but its comparable to a dsm with open 02 or open downpipe. You can really hear to turbo whistle.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

NICE!!! I love turbo whistle. Esp. in a garage or tunnel. Whistle FTMFW.

James

 

[420a-t]

Sounds like It's worth the money. I wanted to put it through the drivers side bumper cover, and mabye a manual cutout would work better for clearance issues. I'm thinking of welding a flange on the cutout and having that bolt up to the o2 housing, then welding the other side back to the downpipe as well as going through the bumper. Being loud doesn't bother me, as I will only use this when at the track. Thanks

 

[desolateboosted]

I know what I'm doing. It's so funny to see these repsonses. Obviously it will be louder. I'm not talking about hp gain. I just want to know where/how people are wiring or getting switched 12v sources from. Been at it for years, wired relays, soldered, etc. Ran 11s. I was asking to see where guys are wiring their cutouts. If it's with a distrobution block then I may have to do that. I was wondering if maybe there was a common wire some guys use. I've heard of the cig lighter wire but wanted to hear more to see if there was a better spot. Please don't stray off topic. No need to talk about stuff blowing up.

 

[matthewdesigns]

I've got one welded into my dp right before the curve and flex section, about a foot below the turbo...3" Megan dp with a 3" Badlanz cutout, bolted to a stock catback. It dumps right out the side of the dp, pointed towards the ground/passenger side. I have not has any heat problems from it, even after 20+ runs in one day down the 1/4 mile last fall. My Evo 3 spools 500rpm earlier with it open, and I've logged over 2 #/min more airflow with it, too. It's REALLY loud when open, but practically imperceptible when closed.

 

[firefightermdc]

^^where did you get the cutout?

 

[project_tsi]

I got my QTP from Summit

 

[blackGSX2g]

I have mine run off of a relay as well using wires I ran to my MAFT (in the center console) as switched power since I have the QTP switch mounted in my ash tray. Been using that for over a year now with no problems.

 

[Anonymity]

i would go for full 3in. i got the electric 3in instead of full and i regret it. i dont know if its because i have solid motormounts or just the turbulance from the frame but it vibrates my car so bad i cant even enjoy driving anymore, that and i have no bottom end power. but overall performance.... its naaaaassstyy! i have a fully ported 14b and 02 housing and it spools so much faster than the t25