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Exhaust Cut-out [Merged 8-9] cut out bypass

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I am not sure, why don't you get it dynoed and you tell us? LOL sorry for being a prick, but bench racing or bench horsepower is not allowed here.
 
i do not think that you would see any gains- i know DSMers tend to DIY on many things, but not that way- just do it right and get an exhaust- we arent HONDA modders
 
I have a cut out and i like it alot. Much cheaper then a full catback system and if you shut it emissions are cool. You allready have a 2.5 inch cat back so the gains will be minimal. You might loose alittle torque but gain some top end. I love the sound though. You can really hear the turbo spool. Also when i installed mine the boost went up some. Might be lack of back pressure. Hope I helped.
 
yeah i know but i feel my muffler is kind of restrictive its a cambered muffler sounds incredible most people say im probley gonna still fo with the exhaust cut out just to try something new i remember a dyno chart on here where someone gained 30hp from just the cutout and i believe it already had a full 3in turboback setup
 
No doubt a cutout will help at least a little. I have 3 friends with cutouts, and have considered one myself. The kicker for me that made me not get one, and go full 3" turboback instead, was that all three of them after 3-4 months broke regularly, would leak, and were obnoxiously loud. They all wished they didnt' have them anymore.
 
Soon i will install a custom home made electric cut out, my sisters boyfriend has a 2003 lancer Rally art ( i know its not a dsm) its n/a and with stock header 2.5 cat back exhaust and stock axleback and muffler. He install cut out before the axleback and the dyno results where 151whp and 143tq closed and 155whp and 154 tq open. only 4hp gain but 11tq. considering that its a natural aspirated car.
 
After all these years, I finally got sick of getting pulled over for loud exhaust and decided to go with another route. I am currently running the 3" o2 back Apexi N-1 catless exhaust and it's very very loud. On the highway it has the famous annoying drone that drives me crazy after all the high way driving. The local cops like to pull over imports just ### they got huge ass muffler tips.:(
After some intense research, I finally got the 2.25" electric cutout from QTP. Since the stock exhaust system is 2.25" i figured i can have a quiet car for daily driving and still be able to race on the track once a while.

I brought everything to the exhaust shop and turned out they want almost 200bux to weld the Y pipe in and fit it on the car. The excuse for the charge being so high is they need to test fit a couple times to see if the cutout fits right or not.

So here is where I really need help from whoever's ever done this and still have the device on the car. I need a diagram or some kind of picture that tells me where exactly to cut on the downpipe and which angle the cutout sits so it doesn't interfere with the driveshaft or the chassis componenets under the car.

:) I know you DSMs are helpful and brilliant. Please help out me out here!!
 
Dre99gsx had an innovative use of the QTC on his 3.5" turbo year or so back.
He used the QTC in-line of the existing exhaust and bored two 9/16" holes in the plate which when closed gave him good power and a quite exhaust.

With the QTC open he got full power (and the accompanying noise increase) :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Dre99gsx had an innovative use of the QTC on his 3.5" turbo year or so back.
He used the QTC in-line of the existing exhaust and bored two 9/16" holes in the plate which when closed gave him good power and a quite exhaust.

With the QTC open he got full power (and the accompanying noise increase) :dsm:

That is an awesome approach, but i would imagine the cutout becomes a PITA if it stops working or needs service. Just for that purpose, i would stick with the Y pipe approach. Is there anyone out there have the cutout setup and have some pictures? I really can't justify paying the exhaust shop $200 to weld that Y pipe on the stock exhaust.WTF
 
I am also thinking about doing this on my galant. Just because nobody makes a reasonably priced exhaust for them. Also you can get the cutout and y-pipe for $155 off of ebay, that's way cheaper than a complete exhaust system too.
 
1g dsm and Galant exhausts are the same, you just have to change the hangers.
 
So basically I'm under the drivers side of the car trying to take a picture of the bottom of the cutout. I basically cut off the flange to the downpipe and welded the cutout directly to that ( at a slight angle). I then chopped the downpipe to mate to the end of the Y section. The cutout flares towards the oil filter housing. To change the oil it gets in the way, but I deal with it. The front splash guard also needed slight trimming. This is a very custom job so yes it will be expensive. Its more for the DIY guy if you want to save money. Time is money and it will take time to make it fit right. If they get it done in an hour and charge you $100, then it will be a POS job.

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danl said:
So basically I'm under the drivers side of the car trying to take a picture of the bottom of the cutout. I basically cut off the flange to the downpipe and welded the cutout directly to that ( at a slight angle). I then chopped the downpipe to mate to the end of the Y section. The cutout flares towards the oil filter housing. To change the oil it gets in the way, but I deal with it. The front splash guard also needed slight trimming. This is a very custom job so yes it will be expensive. Its more for the DIY guy if you want to save money. Time is money and it will take time to make it fit right. If they get it done in an hour and charge you $100, then it will be a POS job.

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This is super great info right here. I always thought doing it right after the O2 housing might cause creep issues on a internal gated 16G turbo. Yes, budget is a little tight so I will take this advice and see if this works better than to place the pipe in front of the cat. One benefit of doing this is that I don't have to worry about the fit angle as the cutoff is facing downwards! :thumb:
 
My 16g didn't creep. I had a normal flapper, but I think I may have slightly ported out the gate area. Anyways I ran some decent boost, 19psi street and 26 on race. My 50 trim also does not creep (internally gated). I can run 18psi on pump. On race though I run more like 30-32 psi depending.
 
danl said:
My 16g didn't creep. I had a normal flapper, but I think I may have slightly ported out the gate area. Anyways I ran some decent boost, 19psi street and 26 on race. My 50 trim also does not creep (internally gated). I can run 18psi on pump. On race though I run more like 30-32 psi depending.

My hope's up again! I'll bring the downpipe and the y pipe to the exhaust shop and have them chop it and reweld it. Just want to make sure I get this right again. So you chopped the stock flange off and weld it on the Y pipe.. then chop a length of the stock dp that equals to the length of the Y pipe and replaced the chopped section with the Y pipe correct? I know it can go wrong but with limited budget and have no skill/tool of welding, this is the best I can come up with.
 
I've been looking at different exhaust options, and i came across dumbing the exhaust after the downpipe. Does anyone do this? Does anyone have an electric cutout? Suggestions on brands or where to get it would be appreciated
 
Im running an o2 housing dump if thats what you mean, Its very loud and sometimes gets annoying and thats why I am porting my stock o2 housing and going back to it. I got mine off of ebay a while back from Punishment racing but I dont know if they are still around or not.
 
I haven't ever seen anything like that but it looks like it would be pretty sweet. I don't know if you would actually gain anything out of it but it sure would make a lot of noise
 
I have a regular exhaust cutout (not-electric). It's definetely not fun to drive around on the street with it open becuase it's loud as hell.
 
Lionel Hutz said:
I have a regular exhaust cutout (not-electric). It's definetely not fun to drive around on the street with it open becuase it's loud as hell.

How does a regular one work? How does it know when to open?
 
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