1G Exhaust Camshaft Gear Doesnt Spin

[Ryan0104]

Bought a 1991 1g GSX auto 112k, It has been sitting for 3 years, Previous owner claims he has rebuilt head, new transmission, 16g mhi evo 3 ported turbo , ported header, and o2 housing along with alot of other shit, and evo3 lifters that he may of installed him self. He also said he put a manual ecu in the auto for some sort of launch...

Anyhow, the timing belt is somewhat loose on one side and the exhaust side camshaft gear doesnt spin, I moved it a bit and then it wont move anymore, There is no oil on the top of the engine under valve cover or on cams at all. Been sitting 3 years.

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pics of cams attatched

 

[donniekak]

Have you tried turning the engine over manually with a breaker bar, and checking the timing marks?

 

[Ryan0104]

turning it where the crank pulley? and i assume you mean rotate them till the cam notches line up? what issuedo you think this could be, he said the timing was done by a shop but..

 

[pauleyman]

At a bare minimum that tension is wrong. What do you mean cam wont turn? As in belt slips across cam or cam starts to move then stops?

 

[Ryan0104]

Cam doesn't spin at all even with wrench on the bolt, took tension off of cam and still doesn't spin now neither really spin. going to lube with oil.

 

[pauleyman]

Take valve cover off and have a look.

 

[Ryan0104]

i did pics at first post/...

Both gears shifted about a inch and wont move again, possible its just dry? Also read something about bleeding lifters not sure why that would be necessary though

 

[donniekak]

The belt is loose enough that it may have slipped and jammed the exhaust valves.

You are going to need to do the timing again at a bare minimum because the tension is so bad.

While you have the belt off take the rockers out of the exhaust side, and see if the cam will turn in the journals with some engine oil on the journals. If it doesn't rotate without being in contact with the valves, the head is warped badly, the cam caps are the wrong ones, or the cam is bent. If it rotates smoothly without the rockers installed, the valves are the issue.

You can also do a leak down test with the cams, or rockers removed to verify if there is a valve issue.

Just to warn you, most of the time issues like this happen, a cylinder head rebuild follows.

 

[BogusSVO]

I will have to agree, Pull the VC and check the cam caps to make cure they are on the right side of the head, in order and facing the correct way.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

I've noticed that 1 exhaust cam cap has an arrow not pointing in the same direction I know on my car the arrows point one way so that may be the issue (backwards cam cap?) I no they have be installed the way the went in or it seizes here's a pic of my cam caps


So after I posted this I can't tell if the exhaust cap in my head is pointing the opposite direction


You could probably remove some cam caps then torque the caps to 15 ft pounds

While your at it you might just want to check the bearing surfaces out and oil them and see if it helps

 

[jon2manyrides]

call the guy you got the car from nd ask what's up worth a shot never know

 

[4Gwannabe]

I had the same problem with a junk yard engine, the crank shaft was rusting and it would only allow the crank to spin a 1/4 turn either direction.. Have you tried spinning the cam the other way?
Either way sounds like she needs disassembled and completely gone through, wouldn't hurt reassembling the entire engine just to have that piece of mind that everything is Fresh!

 

[Ryan0104]

Lubed up and got them to spin, fresh gas and oil, smoke comes from everywhrre on the front of the car not sure how or why, it cranks.and you hear cylinders fire a few times but no start

 

[4Gwannabe]

Nice, Verify spark, fuel, and compression is where it needs to be.

 

[Ryan0104]

Spark is good compression is good lots of fuel to much, smoking, will post video it fires a few cylinders sometimes, plugs are dark and gunked but new and just regapped to proper specs, pretty new ngk wires. Possible coil bad? Coolant temp sensor? Not sure what's causing excess fuel maybe something to do with bigger injectors previous owner put in

 

[Ryan0104]

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[curt-s]

Ignition timing? Checked the CAS lately?

 

[Ryan0104]

No just got car, should I try replacing? And the timing belt lines up

 

[Ryan0104]

What kind of effect would cam sensor have

 

[Ryan0104]

Cam sensor unplugged cranks doesnt try to fire plugged in fires and smokes, this tell us anything?

Edit: one more thing is I hear a ticking sometimes always sometimes after key turn on sometimes when starting around cam angle sensor and throttle body, maybe gears on cps are stripped causing it to catch and then not? Or any other place ticking could come from? Kind of faint multiple times fast in a row

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Are you sure it didn't jump timing and bend valves or at least jump a tooth ? Have you checked that all the timing marks line up when at tbc? That belt was superrr loose

 

[Ryan0104]

Once rotated it won't budge at all, and verified timing is correct

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Once rotated it won't budge at all, and verified timing is correct

did you rotate it
completely it takes 6 revolutions at the crank to line the cams up if I remeber and by hand? Was it after the video?

What's the belt tension like after cranking it?

Oil level good?

Did it feel smooth(you'll feel compression) or did it just stop turning once it went around a full cycle?

Have to ask you verify ed that the cranks in time?
Like the factory mark lined up at tdc with the crank mark?
Not useing the balancer as a guestimate right? (balancers get old an seperate causeing the mark to be in the wrong spot ) Just checking disregard If you no 100 % that the loose belt did not skip even a tooth! Whitch is what you said but trying to help

It's possible the cams bearings are shot especally if installed in the incorrect order that there suppose to be in

If I were you I'd rip down that timing belt when at tbc and see what doesn't spin ! don't go crazy heard of people bending valves playing with the cams that way you'll no what's seized and what's smooth , videos are helpfull btw the more the better even if it seems pointless

Hope you get her running

 

[Ryan0104]

Yes I cranked to check timing moved by hand last bit it lines up

Belt tension seems fine

New oil bit low but on hill

And its it is hard to turn I was told due to compression

Not sure if timing and cam stuff can be a problem when marks lines up? It cranked over today after cleaning injectors for just a second then wont start again, also fair amount of smoke from disconnected downpipe while cranking. Seems white grey , believe its gas


When I cleaned injectors had no compressor so used mouth pressure and it was a steady line not mist does that mean the injectors are bad or is that due to pressure? Also dont ever hear fuel pump

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Belt tension is tricky it's better to verify if the tensioner is leaking usually it ticks on the tensioner arm when it's failed or your pistons get to meet Mr. valve, The new neighbor next door and they do not like each other causes nothing to happen(siezed engine) witch is no walk in the park.

Take spark plugs out if you want to not fight compression. You wouldn't happen to have a leak down tester would ya?

You can do a quick check with the injectors just get a ohm meter and tell me what the resistance of the coil is should be round 5 ohms when my injectors failed they were 78 ohms wayy out of range.

Also if you have a continuity tester on your dmm check and see if the injectors are stuck open you shouldn't be able to blow through the injectors with out giving them some power (I just tried on a brand new 390cc injector couldnt blow through it just to verify and it tasted like crap )

I had simular issues with my car when it had bad injectors it also had a bad coolent temp sensor

There's a test connector on the fire wall somewhere to test the fuel pump (haven't done it so you'll have to use vfaq)

Other things to try is check relays and fuses , I found a good way to check relays is just shake em if you hear stuff moveing around then it's most likly bad

If all the marks line up at tdc then your correct but there's still a chance a bearing surface has gone bad causeing stuff to seize but I wouldn't really take bearings out just yet if its random

Reconnect that down pipe !

Tell what happens when you try testing the injectors and good luck