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excessive fuel and no start

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Macspsi

10+ Year Contributor
165
8
Nov 12, 2011
Cumberland, Virginia
Recently completed putting a motor in my 97 gst, then found out that it was a 96 motor, so the cas is different on the motor than what I had on my harness. I got the plug off a 96 eclipse and cut and spliced it in. When I tried to fire it up, it took awhile and when it did gas was leaking out of the manifold.

Then I took the sparkplug out and of course it was soaked with fuel. Took the plug out and connected it to the coil and it was getting spark.

Then I did some more searching and thought maybe it was the injector tried switching the injector out and it was the same problem. It is the injector closest to the timing belt.

I now had 3 out of 4 things for the car to start just excessive fuel. Has spark and air. So I checked the compression and that was 180, but I'm pretty sure the fuel in the cylinder altered that. Now I am completely lost at what I need to check so my last option was to make a thread, and hopefully I can get some help on this problem.
I have tried checking the voltages on the cam angle sensor and the crank and I'm getting 12-13 on all the wires except for black. Didn't try it while cranking yet.
I know some other things that I could do, but I don't know how to do them.
Check the water temp sensor.
Check both of the injectors that I tried to make sure they are pulsing.
 
The coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors, mass airflow meter, and manifold absolute pressure sensors all work together to determine how long to keep the injectors open for. By the way cylinder closest to the timing belt is cylinder number 1. Noid lights are used to check injector pulse. They're not too expensive to buy, just make sure you get one that fits your injector plug. It goes on the connector side in case you didn't know. Get a hold of someone with a pocket scanner and see if there are any diagnostic trouble codes stored in the ECM. That would tell you right off the bat if the problem lies in the cam sensor. Normally you can hear if a cylinder has bad compression when the engine cranks. There will be an "easy" spot for the started as it cranks. Your best bet is to see if there are any codes in the ECM at this point. That'll point you in the right direction.
 
Pulled the spark plug out of cylinder one and pulled the fuse for the fuel pump. Then I turned it over and gas shot out of the cylinder like a geyser. I also tried an homemade noid light and the light did not come on.

Ohm tested the injectors and got 2 ohms across the board. I checked my injector harness with the key off and i got nothing for any of the injector plugs. Do I test the ohms for the injector harness with the key on? I wouldn't think so because ohm is just resistance and the multimeter just sends a small voltage to test the resistance correct?

Going to try taking the fuel rail off today with injectors plugged in and try to start it and see what happens
 
I'm not a 2G expert, so I thought I'd throw this out there and see who knows the answer:

When did the DSMs move from a single CAS sensor that combined both the TDC and CAM angle sensing on the passenger side cylinder head intake camshaft to seperate CAM angle sensor on the timing belt side with TDC sensor on the crankshaft? Just made me wonder since you mention the CAS connector difference. Is it possible your original motor had the TDC on the crankshaft and your replacement motor has a CAS with the combined functions on the camshaft and no crankshaft TDC?

Is the CAS for your replacement motor on the passenger side of the cylinder head or on the timing belt side?
 
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