EVO III turbo swap

[Mitsu725]

I am changing out the stock turbo and wondering if i can use the stock bolts or should i get one new bolt like vfaq suggests or something like that???

 

[miteclgst]

The stock bolts can be used, I used them in my install, the bolt that the vfaq usually suggests to replace is the centering stud, this thing can become a huge PITA when you first remove and later install the turbo. The reason that it is such a PITA, which you will see yourself from the removal of your current turbo, is because there is no way to remove the stud when you first go to drop the turbo, this requires you to either a) drop the turbo out the bottom of the engine bay with only limited movement as governed by the stud, b) to remove the exhaust manifold while the stud is in place requiring some patients and a bit of cursing. The stud just makes life difficult on the install and removal of the turbo, so yeah make your life easier and by 1 replacement bolt and eliminate the stud all together. Make sure to use anti-sieze during the reinstallation and make sure to spray all of the bolts that you will be removing with some sort of penetrating lubricant a day or two before the install. My suggestion for the spray is PB Blaster, the stuff works awesome on removing tuff corroded bolts. I sprayed mine 2 days in advance, just one spray per day. You will want to spray the dp bolts, 02 housing bolts and stud, turbo bolts and stud, manifold studs and probably the dp strap bolts. Make sure you get a good install kit and if you buy the kit from Slow Boy Racing make sure to buy new copper crush washers for the original water lines and oil return tube gaskets. Good Luck

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

The stock bolts can be used, I used them in my install, the bolt that the vfaq usually suggests to replace is the centering stud, this thing can become a huge PITA when you first remove and later install the turbo. The reason that it is such a PITA, which you will see yourself from the removal of your current turbo, is because there is no way to remove the stud when you first go to drop the turbo, this requires you to either a) drop the turbo out the bottom of the engine bay with only limited movement as governed by the stud, b) to remove the exhaust manifold while the stud is in place requiring some patients and a bit of cursing. The stud just makes life difficult on the install and removal of the turbo, so yeah make your life easier and by 1 replacement bolt and eliminate the stud all together. Make sure to use anti-sieze during the reinstallation and make sure to spray all of the bolts that you will be removing with some sort of penetrating lubricant a day or two before the install. My suggestion for the spray is PB Blaster, the stuff works awesome on removing tuff corroded bolts. I sprayed mine 2 days in advance, just one spray per day. You will want to spray the dp bolts, 02 housing bolts and stud, turbo bolts and stud, manifold studs and probably the dp strap bolts. Make sure you get a good install kit and if you buy the kit from Slow Boy Racing make sure to buy new copper crush washers for the original water lines and oil return tube gaskets. Good Luck

My turbo wouldnt come out without taking the stud out...I broke a little off one of my bolts so be prepared to replace them as the may break off in the stocker turbine housing. Just follow vfaq directions if you dont know what your doing, as far as secrects I had a hydraulic lift at work, Ive done turbos before and have ALOT of tools(Im a mechanic).
Andrew

 

[98RedGs]

I am changing out the stock turbo and wondering if i can use the stock bolts or should i get one new bolt like vfaq suggests or something like that???

Which bolts specifically?
I know for a fact you will need a manifold-to-turbo bolt to get rid of that damed stud in your old t2small. But other than that the others should be good.

 

[rowlex]

If I remember correctly, the t25 does not have a stud going from the manifold to the turbo.


P.S. If it does (and this worked for me very well) spray the stud down good with P.B. blaster or any penetrating oil, and clamp onto it with vice grips. Mine came right out. You may also need to file the threads down a little bit to aid clamping of the vice grips.

 

[Quasimondo]

Or if you're lucky like me, you can pull the whole stud out because the nut didn't move and I ended up unscrewing the stud instead.

 

[Mitsu725]

another thing i got the kit that replaces the stock hard oil line but it has a female end on it and so does the one that connects it back the motor so i was told by the ppl who sold me the kit that i need a male to male fitting, where the hell can i get that because i dont know the exact size or what to tell someone I need, any suggestions??

 

[miteclgst]

What you need is two female fittings on the stainless line, there is a brass 90* that goes on the oil filter unit (where the stock hardline went) and then on the turbo side there is something that looks like an eye bolt. here is a picture of the line itself, (from SBR's website)

 

[Tarantula]

What I did was take off the manifold with the turbo attached. I losesned the turbo to manifold bolts first, using a 6 ft rod attached to the ratchet Than I took the whole thing out of the engine bay. to install, (I bought the EVo Manifold) I attached the manifold with the O2 housing and turbo as one piece, with the oil line and new FP drain tube attached as well. It was a little tricky to install with the upper coolant hose, so I drained my radiator half way and removed the hose. I did go to ther dealer and ordered a new bolt for the install to replace the stud for the future, also ordered a new bolt for the O2 housing as well. The original studs were not coming off even with my 6 ft breaker bar. To make it the easiest possible, replace the stud for the turbo to manifold with a bolt and do the same for the turbo to O2 housing stud.

 

[flinguist]

I just swapped out my turbo a couple of weeks ago, and had no problems getting any of the studs/bolts out. Just use PB blaster for a couple of days prior to the changeout, as stated previously. You'll need a small cheater bar to break things loose. Good luck.

 

[Mitsu725]

Yeah i just pb blasted the bolts a couple of times and i had no problems getting the bolts out, my stock turbo is out and im waiting to put the EVO III in but i have a stainless line that has 2 female ends on it but i dont know what i need to hook it up, like I was saying i need a male to male fitting or that brass fitting where the hell can i get that, if i was lucky home depot, but i think i might try speed and truck i just need to know what size to tell them???

 

[Tarantula]

Just call up Forced performance. They'll hook you up. When I was telling them (FP) that I had a SS line for the Garrett housing and I needed an adapter to make it go on the EVO III turbo, they told me that they would just send me the adapter. I told them thanks anyway and I ordered the right SS line (So it wouldn't be too long because the one I had was super long) than I sold my garrett SS line to a local DSM'er. Give them a call.

And to let you know what you need.... You will need the ELBOW that hoooks to the filter housing for one end of the female line and for the other end of the female, you will need the EYE BOLT SCREW that connects to the Mitsubishi center cartridge. Its a 2 piece part. One is the screw and the other has a hole in the center and kinda looks like a doughnut. The screw goes right through it. Theres a pic up a few posts../\ /\ /\ /\You will need two copper crush washers as well for the Eye bolt. The crush washers goes on the two ends of the doughnut part. Thats it.

 

[Mitsu725]

Could i just get a male to male fitting or would that not work?? And I think its a size 4 im not sure??

 

[Mitsu725]

I have another dilema here, i got an aeromotive FPR and i ordered the fuel rail fitting but what about the fuel return line since its a rubber hose and i need it to be threaded, should i just run a whole new line since i have access to a lift or should i get an adapter, even though I dont like fuel adapters??

 

[1997TsiTalon]

you will need the EYE BOLT SCREW that connects to the Mitsubishi center cartridge. Its a 2 piece part. One is the screw and the other has a hole in the center and kinda looks like a doughnut. The screw goes right through it. Theres a pic up a few posts../\ /\ /\ /\You will need two copper crush washers as well for the Eye bolt. The crush washers goes on the two ends of the doughnut part. Thats it.

This is called a banjo fitting and banjo bolt. Oil traveles down the bolt and into the turbo. The fitting can be purchased from a guy on e-bay (search ss oil feed lines, go to his store). The bolt itself can be picked up at the dealer, it is a 1g part.