2G Evo 3 16g Help?

[RockSolidGST]

Arlight So my AFRP is in ( Aeromotive )


Now to get the vacume source , Should it come directly from the Intake Manifold.


I read that you have to cap of the stock little black solinoid
Because the stock is Run , Intake Manifold , To solinoid , To the fpr.
And iv read that you are supposed to cap off the solinoid , Then Run it directly from the Intake mani to the afpr.... but im not so sure of this

My car is running funny , and i think that this little problem has something to do with it.

When i first start it up , my boost guage will be "stuck" at 0psi , No vacume.WTF

It drives perfect. Then about 2-3min later , The guage will show vacume. and from a slow roll the car will spit and sputter


Any advice on where to "correctly" get vacume for a aeromotive AFPR would be helpfull

( Yes its set to 43psi with the vacume off )

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Here are 3 ways you can hook it up. You need to tee your boost gauge BEFORE the fps. The way an FPS works is on a hot start if provides NO vacuum to your AFPR so you can start your car with a higher fuel pressure. tee before your FPS so you can get a constant boost reading. Also, if you keep your boost tee after the FPS, you will notice after a couple of minutes of driving, that you will have vacuum once again (and that's how an FPS works!)

 

[RockSolidGST]

Thank you for that ,


Now any thoughts on why once the "FPS" Opens up ( When i read vacume )

The car starts to run like hell?

Coupld my fuel pressure possibly be to low??

Since You said on a hot start it allows you to start with a higher fuel pressure?




But its set at 43psi ( with the vacume off )

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Air can leak through the adjustment screw, and lower pressure, and make it run like a dog. There is a thread on it, Ill go try to find it, and I will EDIT this post with the link.
EDIT:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238101, it starts to get good and lots of info at post #12.

Dustin

 

[RockSolidGST]

Can somebody explain to me why my Fuel pressure is Dropping



10!!!! Pounds when i connect that vacume , The "Norm" is 43 dropping to 38

Im going from 43 to 33!!! I think this is what my problem is at low throttle , Well acctully i know it is.

What could be causing this guys?

Its a Aeromotive AFRP

 

[fourreGsixty3]

If you read the #12 post in the link I provided earlier, you would see a fix to your losing pressure with the AFPR.

Dustin

 

[RockSolidGST]

Correct me if im wrong , But a wouldn't a leak , make the fuel pressure higher...because therers not as much vacume pulling?

Well im on my way to the store right now to buy some teflon tape. ill keep you posted and see if this fix's my problem.


Andy

 

[larsrya8]

Can somebody explain to me why my Fuel pressure is Dropping



10!!!! Pounds when i connect that vacume , The "Norm" is 43 dropping to 38

Im going from 43 to 33!!! I think this is what my problem is at low throttle , Well acctully i know it is.

What could be causing this guys?

Its a Aeromotive AFRP

At idle you should have about 20in/Hg of vacuum. 2in/Hg is about "-1 psi", so dropping 10 psi of fuel pressure is correct.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Ryan, Altitude, and cams also play a role in the amount of vaccum. For a stock cam, and roughly sea level altitude you are correct Ryan, a good healthy engine should have 20-22in/HG.
But him dropping the fuel pressure from 43psi(off vaccum) to 33psi(with vaccum) that is not right, it should be around 38psi for a 2G when the vaccum line is connected to the ARPR, this is most likely the problem with how it is running, it is not at a 1:1 ratio. Like Bruce said in that link I provided "I suspect most AFPR users have the same problem (leaking pressure at the adjustment rod) but just don't know it."

Dustin

 

[RockSolidGST]

Ok well , I did the teflon tape , It helped a little.


But... Im still dropping from 43.5 to 35-7 when i connect the vacume

My boost guage is reading only 15psi of vacume , Possibly that i have a leak

If i free rev it then let off , the vacume will be 20psi then slowy drop off to 15

I Checked all the vacume lines they are all Secure , Next test i guess would be the soapy water?

( car is running a little better by the way )


Would it be safe to pump up the fuel pressure a little? It seems to like it a little higher ( when the solinoid holds the vacume back and its at 43psi , Car purs like a kitten )

 

[blcknspo0ln]

It's time to do a boost leak test, my friend.

 

[larsrya8]

Ryan, Altitude, and cams also play a role in the amount of vaccum. For a stock cam, and roughly sea level altitude you are correct Ryan, a good healthy engine should have 20-22in/HG.
But him dropping the fuel pressure from 43psi(off vaccum) to 33psi(with vaccum) that is not right, it should be around 38psi for a 2G when the vaccum line is connected to the ARPR, this is most likely the problem with how it is running, it is not at a 1:1 ratio. Like Bruce said in that link I provided "I suspect most AFPR users have the same problem (leaking pressure at the adjustment rod) but just don't know it."

Dustin

What?

I gave the approximate equation to convert in/Hg to "negative psi" and he is right where he should be. Having 15in/Hg of vacuum is something to look into if he has stock cams and such, but his AFPR reading is spot on to his vacuum reading.

FWIW the 2G manual says to have between 18 and 20 in/Hg at curb idle.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Andy glad to see that helped some, like Tom said its time for a boost leak test. This should bring it up the last 1-2psi needed for it to be 100% correct fuel pressure with a vaccum source.

Dustin

 

[RockSolidGST]

By doing a boost leak test , i Should see what if any of my vacume lines are leaking.


Time to go , To home depot and make myself a boost leak test "kit"


ill keep you guys updated thanks for your help.


Would that 2-3psi of fuel pressure really make a huge diffrence?

Im just trying to do process of elimination , To see whats making the car run so rough at low throt/idle

 

[tstkl]

just for the record, I personally run without that stupid solinoid, as does my friend. We both have stock fpr's too. Amazing how that works. That thing is pointless unless you live in cold places. I live in cali. I don't know what cold is.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I guess the key word is IF

 

[Kevin Jewer]

That solenoid is to drop fuel pressure during hot starts. Not necessary. It's another mitsubishi fix for a nonexistant problem.

Ryan is correct. Hose on fuel pressure should be base minus half of vacuum. If you have 20" of vacuum, you should drop 10 psi off your base pressure with the hose on. I only get 12" of vac, so I drop from 43 to 37 psi. And so on. If fuel pressure is higher than what this math tells you it should be, you have the infamous leak at the aeromotive.

 

[RockSolidGST]

Well i picked up a set of Lucas 550's

Ever since i put them in , the car ran like garbage. At low throttle the car would spit and sputter till i hit around 2psi of boost , or the rpm came up over 3k

I thought it was a tuning/timing/boostleak problem , Fixed and or verifyed that all of that was corret. Still same problem.


Took the injectors out and swapped with my buddys evo ( 560cc ) Car runs perfect , Changing no settings.




My question is would it be worth it to send to to get cleaned , then flow tested. Or should i just junk them. The kid i bought them from wont refund my money ( Bought on here )

 

[siceclipse]

what are you using to adjust fuel with?

 

[daren_p]

Check this place out www.cruzinperformance.com I had a set of injectors done by them, great customer service & much cheeper then other places such as RC Eng. Last time I checked they charge $5 an injector to check them & $12 an injector if you want them tested, cleaned, then tested again. All the info on the steps they do is listed on their site & you get a nice flow sheet when their done.