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evo 3 16g GT turbo

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little bit more details please.

Do you have a 1g? or do you have a 1g mani?

if you have a 1g why would you have to change your BOV??

NOW if you have a 1g and you want to buy a 16g YES it will bolt up to the mani. You SHOULD do some fuel mods. There may be a few other things you have to change but pretty much yes you can if the above is true
 
gotgrip666 said:
yes i have a 1g tsi i wrapped my 2g around a tree @ 70mph


wat are you mods?

cuz yes you could bolt one up but its sorta pointless if you dont have any decent mods.

boost wise you couldnt push more then stock boost (unless you have fuel mods, IC ect..)

and wat are you talking about running a T for an external?? external wastegate?? dumping your O2??

come on man details DETAILS
 
The evo 3 will bolt right up and work fine. as with any turbo, including a stock 14b, watch for knock when turning it up. You should be fine with 15 psi. Unless you have a logger do not go higher than 15 psi. unless you dont care about your pistons.
 
^ Thanks very much for that post, I am so glad I read that :)
:thumb:

And thanks Slowboy for not selling that turbo.
 
fwiw i bolted on a evo 3 16G and rewired the pump. I was able to run about 15-16 PSI with the stock pump. The factory pump wouldnt produce any more than around 53 PSI of fuel pressure. I installed a walbro 255 and since then have ran 24 PSI on it with race gas no problem. And I'm still on the stock 450cc injectors.
 
jetdriven said:
fwiw i bolted on a evo 3 16G and rewired the pump. I was able to run about 15-16 PSI with the stock pump. The factory pump wouldnt produce any more than around 53 PSI of fuel pressure. I installed a walbro 255 and since then have ran 24 PSI on it with race gas no problem. And I'm still on the stock 450cc injectors.
on that note, it is not recommended to run a 255lph without an adjustable fuel pressure regulator aka. afpr. It will overrun your stock fuel pressure regulator. On the other hand you will be fine with a 190lph.
 
If I were you I would just buy the MHI evo III. I just got mine from turbochargers.com, I needed to get a new one becasue the evo gt that the previous owner had put on was toast after 3 months, I mean it is destroyed. The exhaust wheel feels like it is barely bolted in, it moves at least 1/4" in every direction. Just buy the MHI and port it yourself. I spent a total of $35 for my die grinder and carbide bits off ebay.
 
My input on the Evo3gt. I have it and have been running it for around 5 months now. No shaft play and i run 22psi daily. and it builds 22psi by 2800rpms. Just figured i'd put my 2cents in since i actually own one.
 
I *owned* one for about 3 months till it hit the dust (major shaft play). Do yourself a favor and go for the mhi evo3 16g instead of some knockoff. :rocks:
 
gotgrip666 said:
would i be able to just bolt this baby right up to my 1g with no mod except a BOV , and would i see any decent performance gains, second could i make t so i could run an external off the o2 with this turbo . heres the pic and details on it http://turbochargers.com/Evo3GT.htm OH and how much boost could i safely run on this turbo in a 1g

yes, it will bolt up to your car regardless of bov, as bov has nothing to do with what kind of turbo you can run.

you will see performance gains even at the same boost levels, due to the larger turbo pushing more air at the same boost levels. even if its just a butt dyno gain.

you cant run external off the o2 with these, as they are already internally gated. you can delete the internal gate and go external off the manifold, or keep it internally gated and do a external o2 dump(where instead of the o2 housing side meeting up with the exhaust side, it dumps the o2 side of the turbo exhaust into the atmosphere under the car, sounds like a dump truck). actually now that i think of it, if you order it externally gated, i think you can get a o2 housing with a WG flange to run the wastegate off the o2 housing, but IMO its pointless on smaller turbo's. if youre thinking on this route cause of the possibility of boost creep, order the turbo with the ported housing and 34mm flapper mod(turbo+these mods obtainable through most vendors for under 700$).

the safe levels of boost depend upon your current setup. on stock system, nothing over 15psi. on a rewired or aftermarket pump, maybe 16-17. then of course youll need bigger injectors after that, which will need a safc2, which will need a logger setup of some sort, be it palm M505 with Pocketlogger.com software, etc. if you go with the safc/logger route, you can then monitor the timing and o2 volts(lean or rich) and use these values to tune the safc to control the injectors, which at this point you can run anywhere between 20psi and as far as you can go before you start to see knock(which will be shown as drops in timing) you cant get rid of no matter how much fuel you try to add. i never went past 20psi on this setup.

as for true Evo16g vs EvoGT turbo, its up to you to read the debates and decide which is best for you, if you want to spend 200 more off the bat for a proven turbo, or risk 400 on a turbo that might last only a few months. personally, id spend more to get the proven piece, as from experience, the people who spend the least on their dsm's are the ones who complain the most about their unreliability.
 
f0r thde inf0 , i think im g0nna get an0ther agp rs49 and i have a 40mm tial wg fr0m my wrecked 2g


and i.e my keyb0rd is br0ke , s0me keys w0nt w0rk...s0rry
 
gotgrip666 said:
f0r thde inf0 , i think im g0nna get an0ther agp rs49 and i have a 40mm tial wg fr0m my wrecked 2g


and i.e my keyb0rd is br0ke , s0me keys w0nt w0rk...s0rry

ok,ive banished the big killer t28 thoughts from my mind now ( my buddies jumping around in joy)

now, evo III 16g or rs49t for a FWD daily driver / Autobahn 3-4-5th gear Roll on Monster?
edit: i got a geo metro as a commute to work..but the dsm should stay drivable.
how much fuel would i need to make a rs49t run?

ive got high compression (9.5:1 vs stock 4g63t 8.3:1) so my 6 psi is like 10 psi to a someone with lower compression..

ive heard the 16g operates well at low boost..can this be said for the rs49t?

throttle response is quicker with the upped compression, so lag wont be too much of an issue (although the less lag the better)

i have an expensive suspension and still no traction, time to get wider tires and a lsd if nothin helps ..traction is the lesser part of my worrys
 
Raph said:
i have an expensive suspension and still no traction, time to get wider tires and a lsd if nothin helps ..traction is the lesser part of my worrys

Ever thought of running Falken Azenis? They'll probably only last you one season on hard driving, but they are sticky as hell. They feel like slicks to the touch. Unfortunately I believe Falken is discontinuing their old school Azenis tread pattern (no grip in wet conditions) to a more versatile tread, while sacrificing dry condition grip.
 
*edited* since Chris took the others off. :thumb:

As far as the EVO GT thing goes, I got a B16G from forced performance that has at least 10,000 miles on it and the only problem that I have had with it is a crack in the turbine housing which according to oldman is very common for the mitsubishi housings. Still has the same amount of shaft play that it did when I first got it (which was very very little) I would suggest going with a MHI as well, might as well do it right the first time.
 
so what about these 50trims that precision and bulleyes sells? saw em at the speed factor.. how are those response wise? has any one of you who are running 16g variations (or were) upgraded to these or have ridden/drove a car with a 50trim type turbo?

also,do you have to use a -4an Oil line for ball bearing turbos?
 
i ran the agp rs49 50 trim on my 2g, and its pretty wicked @ 22psi and even 18@ spool up is pretty nice too BUT!!! it depends on wich 50 trim you buy , they are not all the same ya know
:dsm: :talon: :laser:
 
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