420A Engine Warm/Tranny Limp?

[Blacktail]

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Hello All! My Name Is Danny
I currently own a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS (2.0 16V/Non-T)[Automatic]
the car currently has about 145K on the Body & Engine/Tranny.
I've only had the car for about 2 months but recently it's been having a few rough issues.

The first issue that appeared was if the car sat too long in idle(Drive + Brake) the car temp would get up to about 70/100%. after getting that hot the AC Compressor fan would kick on cooling it back down to optimal temp. sadly i let the car go like this for about 2-weeks but with minimal driving to & from work, it doesn't get warm unless stopped in a idle for a few minutes. i fixed this issue by installing a new thermostat, installing a new radiator fan, and wiring 2x 35AMP toggles to each Fan Relay. if the car gets past normal temp i'll also notice faint white smoke coming from the tailpipe which smells a bit coolant like..i know this is a symptom of a Blown Head Gasket. but I've just been praying that it isn't.
But at least for the meantime manually toggling my fans keeps it cool enough, eventually ill run it to get tested. Could replacing my coolant sensor also help with my fans to toggle on at correct cooling times?

the second issue WHICH IS THE WORST, whenever driving i notice when the car goes from 1st to 2nd gear slowly it kind of NUDGES, it'll shift kind of roughly. And sometimes rough enough to put it into limp mode. I've replaced the fluid and filter and gasket as well as added conditioner to it, it helped it, but it still does it..im guessing Shifting Solenoids or Speed Sensor? .

IM PRAYING someone from here has any knowledge or info or experience in this specific issue before i end up dumping $$ into unnessicary fixes.

BTW i notice when shifting from DRIVE to REVERSE it makes a weird "rrrrrrrr" kind of noise. its in my second video. but i also notice when I'm coming to a stop it'll make that creaky noise..is is bad shifting solenoids possibly?

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Things I've Replaced:
Radiator Fan
Upper Radiator Hose
Radiator Flush
AC/Power Steering Belt
Transmission Gasket, Filter & Fluid
Water Pump
Thermostat
Timing Belt
Spark Plugs
Valve Cover & Spark Plug Gaskets

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Possibly pump or front clutches but hoping that it is neither!!
The cooler on a N/A car is in the bottom of the radiator if I remember right and if it gets hot, heat is the worst enemy on an auto car, so if you thought you needed it, you could add a cooler like what the turbo cars have on them that is mounted in the passenger side wheel well behind the headlight and keep her extra cool.

 

[motomattx]

The buzzing sound is normal, solenoid sounds, check your fluid level and I would suggest a fluid and filter change no matter what you do next, use Aft+4 in your transmission and a new filter and make sure to fill it properly, that is with the engine running warmed up and in neutral with the brake on when you are checking it. The transmission controller with the solenoids are fairly easy to replace on those transmissions, you can do it from under the hood, the entire unit pulls out and bolts back in, a yard should have some for cheap, they are known for failure though and it can be intermittent like that when they start to fail.

 

[CAM280]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachmen...ssion-service-and-overhaul-manual-pdf.541567/

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

The buzzing sound is normal, solenoid sounds, check your fluid level and I would suggest a fluid and filter change no matter what you do next, use Aft+4 in your transmission and a new filter and make sure to fill it properly, that is with the engine running warmed up and in neutral with the brake on when you are checking it.

I spoke with John from IPT about a month ago (thanks being the cool guy you are) and I told him I was running ATF+4 and he told me he has moved to Dextron 6, and called my ATF+4 dinosaur fluid now days.
That doesn't mean ATF+4 is bad, just the latest/greatest update from the transman himself, a very respected person in the auto trans world.
I have ran the Dextron 6 and it is good fluid, works great. Amazon will sell you a gallon for $20.
I have also used "Global" trans fluid and not had any ill effects.
Just wanted to throw that info out there.

 

[motomattx]

The fluid needs the proper friction modifiers, that can be had different ways, I know the atf+4 to have those chemical properties, having been a transmission rebuilder, I dont recommend experimenting with fluids, its an expensive experiment that has no real benefits, that being said, again there might be more than one way or fluid to skin a cat, but I use whats recommended by the transmission manufacturers since they know what the plates in the transmission are made of and we out here do not.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I was dedicated to the +4 until John told me to call him. I think its on one of my trans issue threads and he PM'd me and just said "give me a call" so I did.
I'm going to be the test dummy, as I ordered his master rebuild kit. I'll find and update that thread as it goes so its documented for us all.
Matt, do you think, as I do, that this OPs car should use the same fluid as turbo models?

 

[CAM280]

Hi, just wondering if anyone has used the Alto Red Eagle clutches and kolene steels, if so what fluid would you recommend for them?
Ok Im starting to research its all good but my next reply is some food for thought...

 

[CAM280]

"Red Eagles are the same as they always been. Cellulose base saturated with a hard resin then a silicate. My theory is.....They wanted a friction that was easier on the Nitrate Treated Steel plates while having a very short lock-up time (higher coefficient of friction) This is a very delicate balancing act but Alto did a decent job considering they were developed 30+ years ago when High Energy Carbon technology was in it's infancy & was pretty well locked down by patents. In the case of 4L60E's.....The 3-4 clutch piston is to small to effectively use the frictional properties of the Red's (Not enough clamping force), This led to a substantial INCREASE in clutch pack temperatures. Standard Cellulose (700R4) frictions lasted longer! And of coarse High Energy was a BIG leap forward. Another interesting theory.....Red Eagle's "hold" very little ATF in the friction matrix which I'm sure is a result of the Resin Saturation process. Standard Cellulose & High Energy frictions "hold" a lot more ATF. I soaked all 3 types in ATF & allowed them to drip-dry, Compared before(dry) & after(wet) weight readings to come to this conclusion. *The ATF in the friction material acts as a heat-sink to the friction surface. But this creates surface tension between the friction & steel, As a result.....The friction will skid/slip across the steel 'til the the tension is broken. **IF Clamping Force is great enough & Actuation is quick enough for the oncoming clutch......Red Eagle's are a decent material choice. The reason they are so popular in purpose built Drag Racing transmissions. Surface Tension with High Energy Carbon friction material can be remedied by employing Surface/Face Grooving.....Giving the ATF paths of escape. This the BEST combination of holding power & longevity when it comes to Highly Stressed Dynamic clutch packs. Do some research......You will find that Surface Grooved High Energy Carbon frictions are being utilized more & more in high performance applications!"

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clinebarger

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

This is what will be in tomorrow for me. I will see if there are any names or numbers.
https://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1668

 

[Blacktail]

Sadly she’s gonna be sitting a while till I find someone near me to buy it, or if I can find someone around the Oregon/Washington community who knows about 420a’s I changed the tranny fluid from ATF6 to ATF3 but didn’t help much..car runs fine until it reaches operating temp. Once it’s warmed up the 2nd gear keeps slipping till it hits “Limp Mode” I pulled the Crankshaft positioning sensor but it was just a bit dirty, cleaned it and put it back in.. I swear these cars are quite a challenge and it’s near impossible to find anyone who knows much about them . Bet. 50$ says no one can figure this car out

 

[CAM280]

Sorry is this not a W4A33 transmission?

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

The ATF+4 is recommended for the NVT-350, which is the manual transmission that came in the 2gnt.