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Engine shuts down when driving. Ignition?

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JoeJuggalo

Probationary Member
18
0
May 1, 2004
Bremerton, Washington
Unfortunatly my car is breaking down on me in the happiest time of the year :rolleyes: . F**K Christmas!

1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo FWD 5-speed.

I'll be driving for about 5-10 minutes & without any warning the engine light will pop on & the engine will completely shut down immediatly. After shutting down the car will crank but not start. If I remove a battery terminal & reset the ECU, the car will start & run but not sure how long without problems; I was able to drive 5 minutes to home. This has happened to me the last 2 times driving the car. The car hasn't given me any problems since I bought it 8 months ago.

Since I'm very new to working on fuel injected cars, I have really no idea what I'm messing with. I guess it could be an ignition problem needing new spark plugs & or wires, but I'm not sure.

Please can anyone help :cry:
 
I'd first check the condition of your battery / alternator. Many PebBoys type stores will do that for you for free.

Also look at the battery terminals / connectors. If they are loose, corroded or pitted.. you can lose power causing the engine to shut down.

..also if it hasn't been done already.. replace the Capaciters (CAPS) in your ECU. They are known to crap out, damage the ECU causing strange engine probs.
 
I replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago & the terminals are pretty clean.

Is the cpu easily accessible?
 
So you all think it is probably the ECU? I didn't think I would run in to this problem since I live in the northwest.
 
DSM90AWD said:
A good thing to check. ECU caps go bad with #cyles/age.. not geography :talon:
Almost. The cars in the south and southwest as well as those kept in the garage don't seem to leak as quickly or as bad based on the ones I've fixed.

Steve
 
What about the MAS, could it possibly be that since the engine will turn over after an ECU reset?
 
*UPDATE*

Ok. After my car sat for 3 days in a parking lot I tried to start it after resetting the ECU & changing the spark plugs. It turned over & ran rough for about 30 seconds then shut down. After that I couldn't get it to start again until I got a jump from a friend. The engine turned over & started very nicely & I was able to drive the car 10 minutes to home. The car never died on me.

I just changed to battery 2 weeks ago because the past battery kept dying on me.

None of the lights on the car will brighten when the throttle is pressed.


So it looks like I need a new alternator. Right?
 
As I mentioned above.. many AutoParts stores will check your alt for free either off the car or have a portable unit that can diagnose it while on the car. This can also chekc to see if the voltage regulator or other charging item is to blame.

Though with your description and the age of the alt (14+years of original).. I'd say it was a no brainer to just replace the unit along with the belt. Should be ~$100 + core for a rebuilt one.
 
My car died outright one time. I found there is a plug back inbetween the injector and the throttle body that became unplugged. My car wouldn't start at all until i found it but I guess you could give it a shot.
 
dna66 said:
My car died outright one time. I found there is a plug back inbetween the injector and the throttle body that became unplugged. My car wouldn't start at all until i found it but I guess you could give it a shot.

That would be the ISC plug. I had that exact same problem 2 weeks after I bought my 2g 95 GST. It randomly decided to just cut off on me, and needless to say my friend came out, first thing he did was unplug that and told me to crank my car, and it cranked and I have been driving it around ever since.

A month ago I decided to buy a used TB w/ ISC motor and TPS for $50 and just replaced that whole assembly, my old TB had went to hell along with the rubber seals *grrr*
 
Could be the crank angle sensor (if you have one). My 95 tsi had a similar problem and it was the crank angle sensor.
 
JoeJuggalo said:
How can I get engine codes from my engine?

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1998/09/19980907.txt/23.html

This is for a 1g only ( which it says you have). Make sure to use a resistor. But most likeley if there is a clicking sound coming from you center console when the car dies, its the ECU failing. That the MPI relay tripping on and off, if you need to know what it is, I'll post another site with a pic.
 
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