engine rebuild questions

[turbo_rookie]

Ok I will be starting a rebuild as soon as I get back with all OEM replacement parts. My rebuild kit came with NPR pistons and rings. I tried contacting them to ask if the rings pre-gapped or not but I couldnt get anyone one that knew what I was talking about. What is my gap supposed to be if I'm only looking for 350HP? I also need to know if my compression turns out to be fine IAW a leak down test, should I even change out the pistons and rings? I am only wanting to rebuild it for piece of mind. I have no idea how the PO's have treated it. I do know that i am the 2nd owner though. I know I'm gonna change out the mains no matter what I figure I may as well change out the pistons while I'm at it since I have them. When I do this considering I dont have any problems AT ALL with the car now and it only has 119k miles can I get away with only honing the cylinders? I would like to avoid machine shops as much as possible. I have a MLS head gasket that I would like to use however I have been told that a machine shop is necessary in order to be able to clean the head and block surfaces correctly. Is there any tips or tricks to where I can possibly do it myself? My head gasket has never been changed before so it still has the factory head gasket. If I weren't pulling the head to build it I wouldn't worry about the head gasket. I'm putting it back together with ARP head studs as well. I have read all the other engine rebuild posts on here. However all cars are different and I still couldn't find these answers. Any and ALL advice tips or comments would be welcomed. Any questions I will try to answer to the best of my knowledge.

 

[95talongirl]

First off, if there's nothing physically wrong with the car now, I would hold off altogether. To get a general "health" check on it, run a leakdown and compression test. Those will give you a general basis as to how worn the engine is. Also, does it smoke at all? Blue smoke would mean its burning oil, which could be signs of a failing turbo or rings. White smoke indicated coolant useage. Black means you are running rich...

The main reason I say hold off on the rebuild is you are already taking about cutting corners. To do it correctly, for both power and reliability, it is recommended that you have the block at least checked out by a machine shop. Maganflux it to look for hairline cracks (good to do to the crank, as well). Things you could do yourself are to check the deck for warpage and check the cylinders to see if they are out-of-round which would mean it needs to be bored. These are important steps, since if your block needs to be bored, then you have to get oversized pistons and a head gasket to fit it, as well.

Honestly, it costs more up front, but it will save you in the long run. I had mine magnafluxed, bored over, line honed, cleaned and decked. I also had them balance the entire rotating assembly since the balance shafts were removed. The engine sounds great... and runs super smooth. I couldn't be happier!

So my advice right now is to drive the car and enjoy it.... save up for when you'll need to actually have it done so that you don't have to skimp out on things.

And yes, in order to run the MLS gasket, the surfaces have to be prepped correctly. Had the machine shop to this for me, as well.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Worst thing you can do is skimp do it once and right, it will save you headaches in the long run. I learned the hard way but i learned no more half ass jobs for me.

 

[turbo_rookie]

Well at the moment no smoking issues no burning or using any oil. It does have the dipstick issue but I'm working on that I also have everything to do the improved PCV set-up. Its not that I'm trying to cut corners but if I don't need it why pay for it? I'm not going to build in the future on this block. I'm buying a spare block to start a "REAL" build on. So I'm not really trying for more power out of it just reliability and peace of mind. Until I do the leak down test and compression test (I always thought were the same thing, guess I been calling things the wrong name) I'm not too worried about the bottom end. That's why I'm wondering whether or not to even touch it. The only reason I would is if when I pull the head I see something horrifying in the cylinders. This isn't my first engine build but it sure is different than a SBC. Where my biggest concern is though is IF I do the tests and it come back with a clean bill of health would it be best to just change out the mains and rod bearings to new ones and leave the rings and pistons alone? or just leave the bottom end alone all together. I have a small oil leak from the oil pan so I have to drop it anyway and figure if there was anything needing to be done I better do it while I'm there. I guess I am gonna hold off if it gets a clean test result. Then ill just do the head. thanks for the info and the "putting in place." No offense but damn it HAD to be by a girl didnt it.....