Engine Rebuild Help Needed!

[schroder]

Without the long drawn out story to explain why I had to replace my crankshaft, I'll dive into the problem i'm facing. When I took the Main Cap Bolts out, they were in pretty good, and now that I am putting them back in after replacing the crank and bearings, the 51lbs the haynes manual says is needed, doesn't feel like it is as much as the force I needed to pull the bolts out. My question is mainly if after 140k on the motor, the main bolts would get oil "baked" onto the threads causing it to become more difficult to remove than to put back on? I apologize if the thread doesn't make sense, but I was working on the car after 4 hours of sleep last night, and have been working on numerous things with it all day...so Im a little tired. The torque wrench is in spec, it just doesn't "feel" the same going in as coming out. Any help is much appreciated.

Also, I need the Rod Cap torque specs for a '99 GSX as I have those pistons/rods in my 6bolt motor. Thanks!

 

[ekanddsm]

first off dont half ass a rebuild or you be doing it again
run a tap down all the threads and blow them ou with a air compressor
give me a sec and I'll find the rod specs

 

[absolute_DSM]

I understand that no sleep and working on the car all night, sometimes time just goes away.

Honestly, I would use new bolts. After 140k they could be a bit stretched. Use a machined straight edge against the bolt to check the threads. If they arent touching the straight edge, its stretched.

Was any part of the block cleaned or tanked? You may need to run a bottom tap down the threads to make sure nothing is in there screwing with your torque readings.

I would recommend using new rod bolts also. The #1 reason for rod bolt failures is overtorquing. You can easily get a set of ARP bolts for $50 or so. BUT, the Chiltons sitting next to me shows a spec of 14.5 ft lbs for the 95-98s. Doesnt sound right at all to me, maybe someone has another spec.

 

[ekanddsm]

the rods get torque to 15 ftlbs and then turned another 90-100 degrees after being torqued down
they are torque to yeild bolts meaning they stretch if you didnt know so I wouldnt reuse stock rod bolts
hope this helps going to bed now pm me if you need more info

 

[snowborder714]

Eric, I also found the torque spec to be 14.5 ft.lbs.

 

[schroder]

Thanks for the help. I wasn't trying to halfway do anything, I'm just still kind of new to internal work. I'll check to see if they are stretched, I just thought that after 140k, going through heat and cold for over 15 years now could have caused them to become a little more "stuck", but I wasn't sure. I blew out everything with a compressor, but I'll tap the holes and blow them out again. It didn't feel like the bolts were binding on anything though, they are becoming tight...it just seemed like it was def. more difficult to get out the first time, than it was when I was going through the torque cycles. THanks again!

 

[absolute_DSM]

Eric, I also found the torque spec to be 14.5 ft.lbs.

You notice every other year mentions the torque to yield style (turn 90* more)? Imagine that. Some confusion in a Chiltons.

schroder - regardless - and Im sure Brian will agree, replace those main and rod bolts.

Let me get you some numbers.

Going the OEM/stock route --------------------

For the 7 bolt block (using a 97 VIN) the part numbers for the main bolts are
MD183236 - (the flanged bolts 10x70mm) - 8 are required
MD153368 - (the other 2 bolts) - 2 are required

For the 6 bolt rods (using a 91 VIN) the part numbers for the rod bolts are
MD040553 - (the rod bolts) - 8 are required
MD006704 - (the nuts) - 8 are required

If you hop on "Mitsubishi Parts" | Online Parts & Accessories Catalog youll notice the prices listed are
MD183236 - (the flanged bolts 10x70mm) - 8 are required - $1.89 ea (x8) = $15.12
MD153368 - (the other 2 bolts) - 2 are required - $1.55 ea (x2) = $3.10

MD040553 - (the rod bolts) - 8 are required - $2.59 ea (x8) = $20.72
MD006704 - (the nuts) - 8 are required - $1.63 ea (x8) = $13.04

That comes out to $51.98 + shipping (about 9 bucks)

OR

You go the ARP route. --------------------

ARP 7 bolt mains
eBay Motors: ARP MAIN STUDS ECLIPSE EVO 90-99 4G63 DSM 207-5401 (item 200207851660 end time Mar-24-08 10:24:43 PDT)
$50.95 + shipping

ARP 6 bolt rod bolts
eBay Motors: ARP ROD BOLT KIT ECLIPSE 4G63 DSM 1G 6 BOLT 107-6001 (item 170201082491 end time Apr-10-08 10:21:50 PDT)
$38.00 + shipping
(PM me if you want a set, I have one laying right here)

That comes out to $88.95 + shipping. On a sidenote, the eBayseller Import Blowout Sales is a great vendor. Ive got a lot on this car <------------- from them with no problems.

BUT, just decide on what kind of power youre going for. If you want some good power dont bother OEM, just go with ARP for not much of a price difference. If youre just getting it back together than OEM is fine.

But its always good to be all ARP'ed up.




Yea, its a verb, look it up

 

[schroder]

Wow...Thanks a ton. I tried to order new ones from the dealership I used to work at, and the newer guy in parts couldn't find the Main Cap Bolts, and said the only way he could order the rod nuts were to order the rods...and he also told me it would be safe to reuse the ones I have. Also, are the nuts for the 99 pistons the same as the nuts you listed, or are those only on a 6 bolt? Thanks again!

 

[schroder]

Also, These aren't bolts that you would attempt to loctite in correct? Thanks again

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

ARP comes with assembly lube for the mains studs and head studs. Not sure it the top where the nut is needs it though.

James

 

[gpz750]

If you are using arp studs it is best to put some of the arp lube on both sides of the washer,in addition to both ends of the stud, then put the nut on .

 

[lasthope05]

If you ARP the bottom end you also need to align hone everything. I forgot the reason why but it is extremely recommended to do so.

 

[GPLaserRS]

Another place that has really good deals on engine parts, especially ARP bolts is Tuners Choice (www.tunerschoice.com). I got my head ($72.99), rod ($31.95) and main ($49.99) bolts there. Plus the shipping was really fast. You could probably pick yours up for under $90 shipped. Just another option because I know some ebay vendors have a tendency to sit on orders.

 

[GPLaserRS]

What does align hone mean? I am in the process of helping a friend change out rod and main bearings with the engine in the car and that would help.

 

[lasthope05]

You need to bring it to a machine shop. And basically it makes sure all the journals are true and align with each other perfectly straight.

Taken from another forum.

"the block will need the Mains align honing if ARP studs are to be used....
And the block should of course be align honed with the new ARPs torqued correctly.
Hardened studs have a much higher clamping load than torque to yield bolts do...so to keep the correct crush on the bearings they have to be align honed in situ."

 

[schroder]

I am just goingn for stock for now, as I just want the car back together. Do I just put the bolts back in there, or what?

 

[schroder]

Sorry...I know its a late correction, but I meant new bolts...Would I just put new stockers in there, or would I need to apply something like loctite to it? THanks!

 

[absolute_DSM]

New stock bolts, no thread sealant needed.