Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

it sounds like a lifter tick to me. there are many ways to solve the issue. does the noise occur only at start and low idle? does it eventually go away? there are many oil additives you can use to free things up. just be careful on what you will be using. good luck

Was that for badd or me? Lol

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Anyone still think I should change out the crank sensor? Somehow I do not think that this is what's causing my stalling issue, considering it starts right back up afterwards.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm assuming you have the stock lifters? I'd probably get a set of 3g lifters and replace the ones you have just to eliminate that potential issue. Or at least pull yours to see if any have collapsed.

Then go from there. But I don't think it sounds any worse than lifter tick.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

no no, i'm talking about what makes it stall out. The lifter tick I can deal with (heavier oil) but i'm stumped on what is making the car stall out. no CEL codes, nothing.

 

[Badd]

Thanks for the advice. I'll be pulling the oil pan when I get the chance to really check everything out, but it's hard to get the time and tools I need together for any real work. I'll post here when I do for other's to reference.


Edit: Been a while, but I took it to a shop that knows DSMs and Evos, they confirmed that it was just lifter tick, and nothing to worry about.

 

[snowborder714]

no no, i'm talking about what makes it stall out. The lifter tick I can deal with (heavier oil) but i'm stumped on what is making the car stall out. no CEL codes, nothing.

This is where a logger would really come in handy


I'd verify timing marks, do a boost leak test, and make sure all sensors are plugged in. Honestly though, without being there and/or a log, I can't be positive what to really suggest.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Okie dokie I'm gonna do a blt most likely early next week, as I'm gonna be swamped with work this weekend. Thanks for the heads up Brian!

 

[undefined0000]

Alright, so I'm not sure if this what an exhaust leak at the manifold should sound like, so can you guys help me confirm?

DSM Ticking/Exhaust Leak - YouTube

 

[DSMnoobsause]

Alright, so I'm not sure if this what an exhaust leak at the manifold should sound like, so can you guys help me confirm?

DSM Ticking/Exhaust Leak - YouTube

Lifter tick

 

[mkau007]

My car recently (within the past week) started knocking it has almost 190,000 miles and NO check engine light and no noticable loss in power
does have bad controlling arm in front pass side

Past two weeks
My car had been burning or using oil for some time so attempting to slow it I ignorantly added 20w-50 Harley oil about two weeks ago.... I changed the oil today (Oct. 24) within a week of the knock starting and added STP oil treatment

description
my car sounds good (no knock) at idle but starts knocking (sounds like the predator clicking noise) around 2000rpm and gets louder until shifting

Question
What could this be?
is there a cheap fix? (oil additives)
is the engine on its way out?

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated

 

[Cdc1221]

More than likely its a main or rod bearing thats worn out. If you have the time, id say drop the oil pan and check the play on all the rods.

 

[Gaines12]

I agree, pull the pan and take a look. No additives can fix a bad bearing and if you don't fix it you could damage rods, or the crankshaft.

 

[grothe3297venge]

190,000 miles I would start to think about a stock rebuild. Internals are probably heavily worn out.

 

[t56speed]

Man honestly car with 190k id def pull the pan and check play on the rods. Its more than likely a rod or main bearing. Id put money on rod bearing. Well if I had any money . My buddies car did the same thing it was a rod bearing granted it wasnt on a dsm it was a mustang.

 

[smileyltu75]

2012-10-31_16-25-01_733.mp4 - YouTube




Can anyone point me where start looking first sounded like ticking clogged d exaust but exaust was new vthat went away tried took new video n it started fine now i have this issue a few.moments after my rmps went low to finally not reading nothing it shakes i try revving it and would only rev up to 3 k n wouldnt go any further this car giving me a headache now i also noticed it kinda runs rich i could smell it on the exaust

 

[NHerron]

WTF is with that paragraph. Is the period button on the keyboard broke or what. Seriously, implement the proper grammar bro.

Has the timing belt been replaced lately? Maybe the mechanical timing is off from where it should be.

Welcome to tuners

 

[smileyltu75]

You think so??? I did try check for leaks in exhaust and no leaks. But here is the weird thing, i started it up and it started fine. But the moment i gave it gas for a few seconds, that when it acted back up. It loses power and starts shaking. could it be anything fuel related? It does run but runs shitty. It had timing replaced' water pump, belts, and all seals. Oh and the injectors that came with this motor were bad. Plus before i dropped it in car i had the motor outside, it was covered. But somehow water went in it. It did rain here for few days. Could that had damaged something? Even though i did clean it.

 

[NHerron]

There's a mark on each cam gear, pretty obvious
There's a mark on the crank pulley that is small, like a notch out of the metal between the accessory belts.

Take a 1/2" ratchet with an extension possibly to the crank pulley middle bolt and rotate the engine until all these marks line up. Cams gear marks to eachother, and crank to the 0* on the plastic scale. It can take up to 6 full rotations at the crank or 3 at the cam gears before the marks all line up. And if you have the stock cam gear cover, those bolts are 10mm, there's 3 of them.

Make sure you're in neutral. It would also help to pull the spark plugs to easily rotate the engine over but it's not necessary. A few 10mm bolts on the plug cover and 13/16" spark plugs.

 

[asianandy87]

Run thinner oil to make the ticking go away. or even sometimes a little bit of transmission fluid will do the trick.

 

[mennosdad]

I'v got a 96 eclipse that did the same thing. If you have a vacuum tube coming out of your valve cover, Disconnect the hose and plug both ends. This helps restore the oil pressure and your tick will go away.

 

[BogusSVO]

I'v got a 96 eclipse that did the same thing. If you have a vacuum tube coming out of your valve cover, Disconnect the hose and plug both ends. This helps restore the oil pressure and your tick will go away.

WTF Really? Please explain how blocking off the VC breather ports will restore oil pressure?

 

[Calan]

I'v got a 96 eclipse that did the same thing. If you have a vacuum tube coming out of your valve cover, Disconnect the hose and plug both ends. This helps restore the oil pressure and your tick will go away.

1). The VC breather vent and PCV port having absolutely nothing to do with oil pressure. (There is no oil pressure in the air space under the valve cover where they are tapped from), and

2). Plugging the breather port does nothing except increase crankcase pressure and cause other problems.

*****

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[obsidian]

I had a annoying squeeking sound coming from my passenger side rear speaker area for the past 2 years or so since I bought the car. I hunted high and low and couldn't find ANYTHING.

So today I manage to figure it out. it wasn't anything in that area. it was the door latch assembly rubbing against the metal u bolt on the door jamb. The sound was reverberating through the car and throwing me off.

So there is your fix if you have the same thing.

 

[mennosdad]

When I first got the car and started it , it sounded fine. I drove it home(about a mile) and it started ticking real bad. I checked the oil and it was full and clean. The hose on top of the valve cover had a hole in it, so I plugged it with a bolt untill I could get another one. The next day I went out and started my car. It ticked at first then went away.(Smooth) When I got out of work I went and got the hose and put it on. Started my car and there it was again that ticking noise that was bugging me. I let it run for a few minutes, and the tick didn't go away. So I took the hose off and plugged it back up. And once again the ticking went away. That was a year ago and still no ticking. I don't know why it worked, but it did. Thought I could help

 

[Calan]

When I first got the car and started it , it sounded fine. I drove it home(about a mile) and it started ticking real bad. I checked the oil and it was full and clean. The hose on top of the valve cover had a hole in it, so I plugged it with a bolt untill I could get another one. The next day I went out and started my car. It ticked at first then went away.(Smooth) When I got out of work I went and got the hose and put it on. Started my car and there it was again that ticking noise that was bugging me. I let it run for a few minutes, and the tick didn't go away. So I took the hose off and plugged it back up. And once again the ticking went away. That was a year ago and still no ticking. I don't know why it worked, but it did. Thought I could help

You were probably hearing the vac leak. With the hose open, air gets sucked in through the VC vent and into the IM. With an open hose just sitting there, it can sound just like an exhaust leak (ticking). The natural lifter tick will also sound louder through an open VC vent.