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2G Engine idling problem

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kyll29

Probationary Member
19
4
Jun 15, 2025
landerneau, Europe
hello, I have a problem with my engine idle when cold it turns at 2500 rpm and when hot it turns at 1100. I have just replaced the seal and the idle valve and the problem is not resolved, what should I do?
 
Can you please post a vehicle profile so we can know exactly what you're working with? Help us help you.

That sounds like a potential vacuum leak, or improper adjustments. But get us some info and pictures so we can take a closer look! :thumb:
 
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Your profile shows no mods.
Have you done ANY recent work. It's not possible to idle (electrically) to idle above 1500. Some things need to be wrong to allow that to happen. Give us some info. Is this car new to you? Did it just start doing this? What have you done?
 
Yes, it's a vehicle I recently acquired; it has had basic maintenance plus a timing belt kit, water pump, and accessory belt. But she was already doing that before the repairs. When it's warm, it runs at 1000-1100 RPM. Is this normal?

In the second video, the car is warm and running at 1000-1100 RPM
 
What is the normal idle speed for a 4G63 turbo engine?

Check if the throttle cable is too tight and holding the throttle open. You should be idling closer to 650-700 when up to temp.
Are you talking about the idle speed adjustment screw?
 
Are you talking about the idle speed adjustment screw?
No. The actual throttle cable. The clue is it runs higher when cold and above 1500 which isn't possible without something electrically wrong.

You can typically see if the throttle is closed if you just push it with your thumb
 
No. The actual throttle cable. The clue is it runs higher when cold and above 1500 which isn't possible without something electrically wrong.

You can typically see if theottlenis closed if you just push it with your thumb
Honestly, I'll tell you the truth, I didn't understand anything in your message :( I didn't understand what I should do to potentially solve the problem
 
No hablo español. Lo siento. Pero quizás estas imágenes le ayuden. Traducción de Google Translate.

Imagen 1: Tornillo de ajuste de ralentí (gire este tornillo para ajustar el ralentí del coche).

Imagen 2: Tope del acelerador (no lo ajuste).

Imagen 3: Mariposa del acelerador (si puede girar la parte superior del acelerador hacia el lado del conductor, es necesario ajustar el cable).

Imagen 4: Tornillos de ajuste del cable del acelerador (afloje los tornillos y permita que el acelerador se cierre suavemente. Luego, ajuste el cable para eliminar cualquier holgura. El cable no debe tener holgura al apretarlo de nuevo con la mariposa del acelerador completamente cerrada).

[[I don't speak spanish. Sorry. But maybe these pictures will help. Translation from Google Translate.

picture 1: BISS (Base Idle Set Screw - turn this to set the car idle.)

picture 2: Throttle stop (do not adjust this.)

picture 3: Throttle plate (if you can turn the top of the throttle toward the driver's side, the cable needs to be adjusted.)

picture 4: Throttle cable adjustment screws (loosen the screws and gently allow the throttle to close. Then adjust the cable to remove any slack. The cable should not have any slack when you tighten it again with the throttle plate fully closed.)]]

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The engine idle speed is 750 rpm +/- 100 rpm. If the idle is more than 750rpm it will cause a check engine light to indicate the idle air control valve is bad.

Can you post a picture of your engine bay?

Does the car drive normal besides the high idle?

Thanks for the info, I replaced the idle air control valve and its gasket on Friday and the problem persists

The car runs perfectly, I've driven 1000 km with the problem, it's just the high idle that's annoying me, I don't know where it could be coming from

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No hablo español. Lo siento. Pero quizás estas imágenes le ayuden. Traducción de Google Translate.

Imagen 1: Tornillo de ajuste de ralentí (gire este tornillo para ajustar el ralentí del coche).

Imagen 2: Tope del acelerador (no lo ajuste).

Imagen 3: Mariposa del acelerador (si puede girar la parte superior del acelerador hacia el lado del conductor, es necesario ajustar el cable).

Imagen 4: Tornillos de ajuste del cable del acelerador (afloje los tornillos y permita que el acelerador se cierre suavemente. Luego, ajuste el cable para eliminar cualquier holgura. El cable no debe tener holgura al apretarlo de nuevo con la mariposa del acelerador completamente cerrada).

[[I don't speak spanish. Sorry. But maybe these pictures will help. Translation from Google Translate.

picture 1: BISS (Base Idle Set Screw - turn this to set the car idle.)

picture 2: Throttle stop (do not adjust this.)

picture 3: Throttle plate (if you can turn the top of the throttle toward the driver's side, the cable needs to be adjusted.)

picture 4: Throttle cable adjustment screws (loosen the screws and gently allow the throttle to close. Then adjust the cable to remove any slack. The cable should not have any slack when you tighten it again with the throttle plate fully closed.)]]

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Thank you for these photos; the images speak louder than words. Thank you, I'll try that

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I love the stock looking engine bay

Everything looks good under the hood, I do not see any loose connections or loose hoses.


It’s possible the throttle body screw on the throttle body is leaking and causing a high idle.

You can use brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner to spray around the intake manifold and throttle body to try to find a vacuum leak. When you spray the cleaner on a spot that is leaking you will hear the car idle drop down and that will tell you where the leak is

You also have an original blow off valve, those are also known to leak and go bad which could cause issues as well. You can upgrade to a lancer evolution blow off valve or buy a greddy type s replica blow off valve and the adapter for the eclipse to replace the original.
 
I love the stock looking engine bay

Everything looks good under the hood, I do not see any loose connections or loose hoses.


It’s possible the throttle body screw on the throttle body is leaking and causing a high idle.

You can use brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner to spray around the intake manifold and throttle body to try to find a vacuum leak. When you spray the cleaner on a spot that is leaking you will hear the car idle drop down and that will tell you where the leak is

You also have an original blow off valve, those are also known to leak and go bad which could cause issues as well. You can upgrade to a lancer evolution blow off valve or buy a greddy type s replica blow off valve and the adapter for the eclipse to replace the original.
Thanks for this informations 👍🏻 what do you think about biss ? Should I adjust it?
 
Biss

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You can adjust the BISS, but if your problem is because of something else (vacuum leak, FIAV, etc.) then adjusting the BISS will only mask the problem. If this problem came on suddenly, the BISS isn't the answer.
 
Pic labeled number 4. The throttle cable appears to be adjusted all the way tight. This is almost certainly part of the problem. Just for diagnosis you can simply remove the cable. Work the throttle by hand and you can feel that it closes. If it isn't closed with the cable on adjust it. You have to finesse the adjustment. Its not an exact setting. Too tight it partially opens throttle. Too loose the cable can slip off or you don't get 100% when you ask for it.
 
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Thanks for this informations 👍🏻 what do you think about biss ? Should I adjust it?

Yes you can try to adjust it

Proper procedure is to screw it all the way down, and then unscrew it 1.5 turns and it should idle to around 750rpm

With the engine running you can also place your thumb over the biss hole on the throttle body to see if the idle goes down because the screw has a bad o-ring
 
Pic labeled number 4. The theottle cable appears to be adjusted all the way tight. This is almost certainly part of the problem. Just for diagnosis you can simply remove the cable. Work the throttle by hand and you can feel.that it closes. If it isn't closed with the cable on adjust it. You have to finesse the adjustment. Its not an exact setting. Too tight it partially opens theottle. Too loose the cable can slip off or you dont get 100% when you ask for it.
I already tried playing with no results. :/
 
Yes you can try to adjust it

Proper procedure is to screw it all the way down, and then unscrew it 1.5 turns and it should idle to around 750rpm

With the engine running you can also place your thumb over the biss hole on the throttle body to see if the idle goes down because the screw has a bad o-ring
I already tried playing with no results. :/
Okay, I'll try. 👍🏻
 
Pic labeled number 4. The throttle cable appears to be adjusted all the way tight. This is almost certainly part of the problem. Just for diagnosis you can simply remove the cable. Work the throttle by hand and you can feel that it closes. If it isn't closed with the cable on adjust it. You have to finesse the adjustment. Its not an exact setting. Too tight it partially opens throttle. Too loose the cable can slip off or you don't get 100% when you ask for it.
🤣 The numbered pics are of my car, not kyll29's. Sorry for any confusion.
 
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