engine build for 600hp+ bottom end and head

[nkosi]

hey guys i am about to tear the engine out of my talon for a rebuild to get 600hp ...i just wanted some suggestions on all parts needed to achieve this goal .I want to keep the engine 2.0L with 85.5mm pistons so i can rev it up high.Also what cam would i need to use 272's or 280 to get the head to flow that amount of power ... reasonable price parts are what im seeking but my budget is around 8000-10 000 us dollars ... thanks guys all input are welcome

 

[stockfornow]

Just simple CP, Wiseco, Ross pistons with Eagle H-beam rods for the bottom end. As far as head goes it depends on how high you want to rev it out. 272's will do just fine, and you can somewhat keep that midrange power(also dependant on the turbo you use). Bigger turbo, I would suggest bigger cams, smaller turbo-smaller cams... And are you talking about 600WHP, or just crank HP?


Edit: Depending on how high you want to rev it out to, I would highly suggest investing into a dry sump oil system!

 

[nkosi]

hey man thanks for the reply... im looking to get 600 wheel hp from the 2.0L bottom end ...as for turbo im going to stay with forced performance turbo because i already have their race manifold the turbo i was hoping one of theses three will work... FP HTA™ DSM82 turbocharger , FP HTA™ GT3076R turbocharger or DSM FP3065 Ball Bearing Turbocharger . I want to rev the motor to about 8500-9000 rpm is good... As for pistons and rods i was looking at Manley platinum 2.0L pistons and Manley H-beam rods

 

[stockfornow]

What's this: FP HTA DSM82 ??? But the other 2 turbos, would definatelly be too small for your goals.
As far as pistons and rods those will do, but if something like CP pistons, and Eagle H-Beam rods will work just fine too, but if they are cheaper, they why not just buy those, it's simply all about the price.
For how high you want to rev it, factory OEM oil pump will do just fine, but I would suggest going with the dual valve springs for safety. But be carefull, some dual valve springs are just a bit too big, and make it really hard to put the head studs in (or specifically nuts on the studs). So, do some reasearch on that part.

 

[constant_proj21]

What's this: FP HTA DSM82 ???

Copy and paste that in google, first link, and you will see. Believe it's also called the HTA 3582.

As for your build, the above mentioned rods and pistons are a good choice. I know MAPerformance sells billet rods that are 1000hp capable, might wanna look into those.

Are you planning on beefing up the transmission as well? A stock rebuild with evo3 gearset, and a 4 spider center diff would handle 600hp.

 

[nkosi]

here are the links to the three turbos i think will get 600whpForced Performance Turbochargers: FP HTA DSM82 Ball Bearing Turbocharger Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP HTA DSM76 Ball Bearing Turbocharger Forced Performance Turbochargers: DSM FP3065 Ball Bearing Turbocharger

Copy and paste that in google, first link, and you will see. Believe it's also called the HTA 3582.

As for your build, the above mentioned rods and pistons are a good choice. I know MAPerformance sells billet rods that are 1000hp capable, might wanna look into those.

Are you planning on beefing up the transmission as well? A stock rebuild with evo3 gearset, and a 4 spider center diff would handle 600hp.

yes i was planning on beefing up the tranny for sure ...as for the stock rebuild with the evo parts can u tell me which shop does that ...i was planing on going with a shep built tranny but its very expensive ...so if u know a shop with a good price to handle the 600whp with the 4 spider diff please show me the way ...

What's this: FP HTA DSM82 ??? But the other 2 turbos, would definatelly be too small for your goals.
As far as pistons and rods those will do, but if something like CP pistons, and Eagle H-Beam rods will work just fine too, but if they are cheaper, they why not just buy those, it's simply all about the price.
For how high you want to rev it, factory OEM oil pump will do just fine, but I would suggest going with the dual valve springs for safety. But be carefull, some dual valve springs are just a bit too big, and make it really hard to put the head studs in (or specifically nuts on the studs). So, do some reasearch on that part.

I was looking at manley single springs or supertech dual valve spring all kits come with titanium retainers and Supertech (Standard) valves ..

 

[stockfornow]

I don't know enough about that turbo (FP HTA DSM82 Ball Bearing Turbocharger), but I feel that using a dsm flanged housing is going to be a bit small for your power goals...
Try to go with a single springs, just try not to rev it past 8.5K, I think it was the supertech dual valve springs that i had trouble with, not 100% sure though. Other than that sure it looks good to me IMO
Also, try jackstransmissions.com he is local to me and is a cool dude, he also rebuilds t-cases. And rebuilds them pretty darn good, I drifted my DSM in RWD mode for a while and didn't break the T-case, just a few axles, a couple rear ends

 

[BoostFrenzy]

The DSM76 is too small for even 600 crank HP. The 3065 would be able to get you there but only just. And the DSM82 would also be able to get you there.

What kind of fuel are you going to be using? It's useless to have a 35R size turbo and only be able to run 20PSI because of pump gas limits.

 

[constant_proj21]

TRE and shep stage 1's are all ya need when it comes to trannies. Improper launching and not preloading can crap out a trans real fast. You can get the gearsets and diffs through jacks transmissions website, and have a local trans shop install them, but it will prob cost you the same amount as buying a shep stage 1, in the end. Locally I know some people who do trans work, so the cheaper route for me is buying the parts. Last time I checked it was about $1k for the parts, through jacks.

 

[nkosi]

The DSM76 is too small for even 600 crank HP. The 3065 would be able to get you there but only just. And the DSM82 would also be able to get you there.

What kind of fuel are you going to be using? It's useless to have a 35R size turbo and only be able to run 20PSI because of pump gas limits.

Well in canada where i live we get 94 octane gas with 10% ethanol in it ...would that take the 35r over 20 psi ..

TRE and shep stage 1's are all ya need when it comes to trannies. Improper launching and not preloading can crap out a trans real fast. You can get the gearsets and diffs through jacks transmissions website, and have a local trans shop install them, but it will prob cost you the same amount as buying a shep stage 1, in the end. Locally I know some people who do trans work, so the cheaper route for me is buying the parts. Last time I checked it was about $1k for the parts, through jacks.

Hey man u sure a shep stage 1 can handle that kind of power or would it be better to upgrade to the stage 2 for a couple hundred more.what do u think of this rebuild from TRE the price is really good or is it over kill.....http:///www.teamrip.com/DSM_AWD_STAGE2.5_REBUILD_SERVICE.html or this option.... http://www.teamrip.com/DSM_AWD_STAGE2_REBUILD_SERVICE.html

 

[donniekak]

The DSM76 is too small for even 600 crank HP. The 3065 would be able to get you there but only just. And the DSM82 would also be able to get you there.

What kind of fuel are you going to be using? It's useless to have a 35R size turbo and only be able to run 20PSI because of pump gas limits.

I've run 28 psi on 91 octane. If you have an efficient compressor, large exhaust housing, and full timing control, you can run whatever boost you want on pump gas, the timing reduction makes for diminishing returns after a centain point though.

 

[constant_proj21]

There's no hurt in overbuilding your car. If I had the money, I'd get a stage 2 shep or even a TRE 2.5, and never worry about it. It's all in what you want to spend.

 

[nkosi]

There's no hurt in overbuilding your car. If I had the money, I'd get a stage 2 shep or even a TRE 2.5, and never worry about it. It's all in what you want to spend.

cool so i think im going to go with the TRE 2 or 2.5 so i don't have to worry ... my car is not a daily driver anyway i just use it in the evenings and to drag occasionally ...it just looks like im going to have to use a twin disc clutch with the new tranny ...u think theres is a single disc that can last at least the summer with 600whp.

 

[stockfornow]

^maybe ACT2900 but I dought it... I just personally went straight to a twin disk.

 

[constant_proj21]

Check out southbend clutches. A couple of my friends have used them in the past (an OFE single disk), and have seen them handle 700hp and LOTS of torque. Twin discs can be a little bit of a pain to drive on the street often, but I've heard ya get used to them.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I've run 28 psi on 91 octane. If you have an efficient compressor, large exhaust housing, and full timing control, you can run whatever boost you want on pump gas, the timing reduction makes for diminishing returns after a centain point though.

Well you are swapping a cylinder pressure adder for another. I prefer timing because it's something that you can add and take away even before the turbo spools. Depends on how you want the car to drive really.

 

[nkosi]

Well you are swapping a cylinder pressure adder for another. I prefer timing because it's something that you can add and take away even before the turbo spools. Depends on how you want the car to drive really.

Well in canada where i live we get 94 octane gas with 10% ethanol in it ...would that take the 35r over 20 psi ..