6 Bolt rebuild checklist (bottom end and head)

[alansupra94]

Well after my 4G63 tossed a rod though the block due to a bad tune (upgrades to a DSMLink V3), I decided its time to rebuild.

Power goals are pretty much 16G levels (400hp) and a daily driver. I don't abuse the car on the street and might track the car once in awhile.

I have a spare 4G63 block that I will be inspecting and posting pictures of to make sure it is usable. (It had a rod knock)

Here is what I plan to do for the bottom end:
- Used Evo 8 or 9 pistons (What is better?)
- New Evo 8 or 9 piston rings (Regular replacements or the race rings from graveyard?)
- Used Stock 1G rods (I have 7 of them and will be checking them to make sure they are good)
- New ACL bearings (Not sure on sizing yet as I will have to check the crank
- New ARP head studs
- New gaskets for everything (BSR already done)
- MLS headgasket

I will be sending out the block to get hot tanked and decked. I will be balancing the whole rotating assembly and doing clearance checks.

Questions I have:
1. Should I get ARP bolts for everything on the bottom end?
2. Is there any modifications I should do?
3. After it is hot tanked, should I still clean out the galleys to be safe?
4. Should I pay attention to special clearances that you guys find vital? If so, which ones?
5. Is there anything I should tell the machine shop to measure so I have on record?

Here is what I plan to do for the head
- Valves
- Springs
- Retainers
- Guides (Bronze or Steel?)
- New revised 3G lifters
(For the above, I am unsure of brands and what to get. I have been reading many threads and it honestly is just making me more indecisive )
- 272 Camshafts (Unsure of the brand but I know they are regrinds)

I will be sending the head to get hot tanked and decked and I will be doing this mod as well.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod-5.html

Questions I have:
1. Should I run regular or oversized valves?
2. What valve combo is the best for stock?
3. I have heard that EVO 8 and 9 valve and spring setups are good. Do I need to modify things to make it work?
4. Any other recommended modifications?
5. Should I pay attention to special clearances that you guys find vital? If so, which ones?
6. Is there anything I should tell the machine shop to measure so I have on record?

I like the idea of running Evo 8 and 9 parts as I have heard they are really good and pretty easy to find without burning a hole in my pocket. Plus moving up to 9 to 1 would be nice.

I will be adding things when I think of them. Any input would be welcomed along with personal experience.

Parts Questions and Links
What do you guys think about this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4G63...15fQQitemZ380232733023QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Grav...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a06abe510


Thanks,
Alan

 

[2slow4utsi]

Everyone will tell you a million different combinations. Just go with what you think is best.

 

[alansupra94]

Everyone will tell you a million different combinations. Just go with what you think is best.

The problem is I don't know. I want to see what everyone else feels is good.

I am leaning towards Evolution parts as they have been proven to be reliable and good sub 600hp.

 

[Cassera]

400hp DD, I dont think you need over sized valves. It would just be overkill
I would recommend using bronze valve guides it will prolong the life of your valve, reduce friction and heat. (Great for a Daily Driver)

I have even heard of people using bronze intake guides and copper exhaust guides......They both dissipate heat better than the stock iron ones though.

 

[alansupra94]

400hp DD, I dont think you need over sized valves. It would just be overkill
I would recommend using bronze valve guides it will prolong the life of your valve, reduce friction and heat. (Great for a Daily Driver)

I have even heard of people using bronze intake guides and copper exhaust guides......They both dissipate heat better than the stock iron ones though.

Sweet bronze it is. I just saw them on ebay for more money so I was just curious.

 

[JacksonAuto]

You don't mention what machine work you are planning on. It's very important to factor this into your plans and budget because correct machine work can make or break a build.

New guides will necessitate a valve job on the head to reestablish concentricity. The new valves may be different lengths and you'll need a shop to set the heights to maintain proper geometry and spring pressures.

Questions I have:
1. Should I get ARP bolts for everything on the bottom end?
2. Is there any modifications I should do?
3. After it is hot tanked, should I still clean out the galleys to be safe?
4. Should I pay attention to special clearances that you guys find vital? If so, which ones?
5. Is there anything I should tell the machine shop to measure so I have on record?

1. If you do, the mains will need to be align honed
2. What kind of mods do you mean?
3. Yes, absolutely. You want the galleys to be spotless.
4. Yes, everything. Rod, main, pin fit, side clearance, deck height, ring gap.
5. Yes, you want a record of everything they do.

 

[BogusSVO]

X2 with what jackson auto says!!

the +1mm valves are good if the head has had a valve job or 2, to help bring the seat back into the combustion chamber, when this happens it will also bring the valve tip height, and spring installed height back into spec.

just like Jackson auto said, when changing guides the seats will have to be cut..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html
also keep in mind some bronze guides have to be finished on the ID, so this may add cost to the head rebuild.


the pressure plate,flywheel,crank. rods,pistons, and Harm.Bal all need to be sent to the machine shop to be balanced also.

the block and crank both need to be cleand by you before the build, you can NOT get the parts too clean.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html

you should do a "dry" build before the final assembly, of your engine to check all the clearances, that way if adjustments need to be made, they can be.

as far as springs and retainers go, choose your cams first, and get the springs reccomended for the cams.

for machine work, read this thread fully so you will have an understanding of what will happen to your parts.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html

you said you want to run a MLS head gasket, both surfaces, block and head, have to be perfect. So the equipment used by the shop has to be taken into account.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

under no means let them surface any part on a belt surfacer!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

also if the head is hot tanked/spray cabinet, you will want to pull the oil galley plugs from the head and brush thu them too.

 

[alansupra94]

2. What kind of mods do you mean?
.

I meant along the lines of the link I posted where BogusSVO did hat porting off the head.

Holy poop I didn't realize there was that much work that goes into this. I will be more than likely going to see the guys down at Headgames as they have been recommended by a few of my supra friends.

Questions I have now
1. The camshafts I am using are these 272 Webb Camshafts that came with the car. So what should I run? Finding spec might be hard
2. Do you think it would be better if I found EVO 8 or 9 camshafts and run them with EVO valvetrain?
3. Is there a big difference between EVO 8 and 9 pistons?
4. I don't know if the head has had a valve job or anything so should I just get 1MM to be safe? Or is there a way for me to check if there was a previous valve job?

Well after nagging BogusSVO for a bit , he answered almost all of my questions.

Thanks I don't need this thread anymore.