Bottom End Rebuild/Shopping List

[saiyansniper]

So I picked up my Talon a lil while back and have been saving to do a bottom end rebuild due to a rod knocking. I was having a problem finding a place to tear it down myself so considered having a shop take care of it but just couldn't bring myself to let someone else do all the work.

Well, I found a place to do the work and now am sorting through different plans. I was hoping you guys could lend some advice or pointers and mention anything that I've left out.

Ross pistons (haven't decided on 8.5 or 9 comp.)
Eagle Rods
Cometic metal head gasket
ARP everything
OE water pump
OE timing belt
Clevite main/rod bearings
Balance shaft eliminator kit
Not sure if i should get a new front cover/oil pump.

Pretty sure I'm gonna get a .020 bore on the block.

Realistic goals are deep in the 12's for now but would like to see mid to high 11's a ways down the road, after a built head, FP Green (not for sure, but something around there), and supporting mods.

 

[Big Woo]

You may want to consider Wiseco pistons, I have had had very good luck with them in the Mitsu 4G type motors, and they may be a bit less expensive. Depending on your ultimate goals, you may not require the Eagle rods, a stock 6-bolt rod with ARP rod bolts, resized, and balanced will work well. Personally I love the Cometic head gasket, and use it almost exclusively. I might suggest that you have the block decked to ensure its flatness. This can usually be done by removing just .004 to .007 of material. If you are planning on using the ARP main studs. plan on spending a little time getting the oil pump pick up tube to fit properly. Don't just hacksaw off the pick up tubes support brace, and toss it in the trash. I once disassembled a motor that was done this way, and found the pick up tube flange still bolted to the oil pump, however the tube and screen wrapped up with the #2 connecting rod. It is always a good idea to install a new oil pump. Balance shaft elimination can be done without the kit, if you know what to do, and do it correctly, thus saving a little money Machine work wise get the block cleaned, decked, and the cylinders resized, I like having this done with a torque plate. Head studs distort the cylinders differently than head bolts, so try to find a shop that has a torque plate that allows the use of head studs while the cylinder resizing is done. If using the stock rods have the ARP bolts installed, and have them resized. Have the crank checked, reground if necessary, or polished, and cleaned. Have the rotating assembly balanced.

 

[saiyansniper]

I have considered going with a non-forged rod setup for the savings but decided if I was going to build the motor from scratch practically, I might as well build it all the way. Like I had said, I'd love to see a 11 sec. time slip someday but realize it is going to take more than a built bottom end. I'd just hate to keep progressing with the car then have to take the block back apart to replace the rods that I went cheap on before.

 

[Polk]

I have considered going with a non-forged rod setup for the savings

What rod are you talking about? Even the stock rods are forged.

Polk

 

[saiyansniper]

Namely, after market forged rods. Basically, even if I never get there, I'd like something that can safely hold 11's. I'm not saying its never been done on stock rods, just not sure how reliable it is.

 

[Polk]

11's on stock rods is not that hard to do. Upper 300 to the wheels should be able to get you there easy.

Polk