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Engine break in

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Lucas03es

10+ Year Contributor
285
0
Jul 28, 2009
Las Vegas, Nevada
So I am going to be breaking in my motor here very soon. I have a full eprom ecu with ostrich and speed density sensors. However, I have read that it is not ideal to break in a motor and tuning it at the same time. I do, however, have a spare 93 non-eprom ECU, with a 2g MAS and some 510cc injectors. Would this be a good combination to break the motor in on? I also have BC 280 cams that have been ran in this motor before I rebuilt it from the previous owner, and a t3/t4 turbo. Would this be good for the car to run on while I break in the motor? I also have no other tuning items on the vehicle. Thanks!
 
Well if it runs i would just drive it until you get tuning devices, a wideband and take it easy for a bit.
 
I have a wideband and im looking for something more certain than if it runs...

I refuse to use any of that tuning garbage on my car either.

Basically what I am asking, is if a car with a t3t4 and BC 280s will run on a stock non-eprom ECU with a 2g MAS (20% higher airflow) and 510cc yellowtop injectors.
 
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I would break the motor in on the lowest power level possible well.. with boost. A close to stock setup to break in the motor with stock level boost. Once you know everything is good to go on the basic setup then tune that mother and up the boost. Just seems alot safer then throwing 500 horses on a fresh motor.
 
I'd say just break it in, just don't be too easy on it or highway cruise it during this time..

I like to make a few short trips out of break in (hope you are ok to hear what i have to say, some people fight about the proper break in)

Anyway, first 5 minutes at idle to check leaks and make sure all is well

next i go out and utilize half the rev range and half throttle to keep pressur eon the rings and help the seat properly, constantly revving up then engine breaking back down the rev range for 15-20 minutes, using maybe 10-12 psi at most

next trip after more checks and fluid topping. i takeit out and go 3/4 throttle and 3/4 of total revs (using a little more boost thi time) maybe 15-18psi

then after that cooldown i (oh, cool it completely between each session is my way of doing it too) but on the last break in run i go again 3/4 thottle and maybe 5/8ths' rev range (up to 5500 RPM or so, maybe 6k) and using boost of no higher than 20psi

once that's cooledand i check all bolts (head bolts, cam caps etc..) all the next morning after cooling of course then i go out and drive it likei normally would except staying out of WOT maybe for 2 days at least for nay time to do a full pul in 3rd, i may open up 1st to 6k, then 2nd to 6k and third let off or whatever, really the rings seat in the first 20-30 minutes of running the most important part is either keep it in boost or decellerating with engine breaking to make sure thre's pressure on the rings to push them out against the cylinders.. aside form being overly rich anytime, or dangerousely lean in boost having a perfect tune is not something i usually worry about at break in to be honest

just don't hold a light load or forget to put reverse pressure on the rings via engine breaking and you'll get a good seal... bearings don't break in as wear on those means somethings not getting oil... as for othr tihngs like oil pump gears and such, they'll be fine after the couple of 20-30 minute sessions too
One thing i learned the hard way a lont time ago is that "easy" break ins ruin piston to cylinder sealing.. had a brand newengine that never stopped smoking untill i honed and re-ringed it and then broke it in with some throttle behind it :D
 
Glenn, first of all I really appreciate your reply. I have read a lot of your posts in the past and I always find them very helpful.

With that being said, I was planning on breaking in my motor in that sort of way, with constantly keeping a load on the motor, as most people tend to suggest that for proper seating. In your opinion, do you think the car will run properly considering the cams and the stock ECU setup?

Once I have the motor fully seated and broken in, I will then switch to my SD setup.
 
that cams might have some effect on boost AFR's but just kep an eye on them and if you have to raise fuel pressure or something if you can't tune the ECU right away to get it roughly in shape.. the clsoed loop will make up for it els where but you shouldn't be stayin in a mode thatallows closed loop to function for long anyway on break in
 
Okay I will definitely keep an eye on everything. I will be having to drive my car to the exhaust shop to get the pipes put back together, would it be okay to run the wideband sensor in the o2 housing? Im not really concerned about sensor life, I am more concerned in if the car will run without the stock installed. I will replace it after the exhaust is put back together. Thanks again!
 
you can run it there but at the minimum of 50 bucks a pop uyou'll change your mind about their life before long.. a narrow band however lives forever in that spot..they are much simpler in constructio and operation though.. I have my WB02 behind theengine in the DP right before the Cat
 
Yeah that is the same exact spot where it was previously on my car. The problem is the downpipe no longer bolts to my new set up. I have to take the car and both the exhaust systems I have to the muffler shop and get them welded up and to where they fit on the car properly.
 
run it for a short time to make sure all is good and put the narrowband back in untill you can get a new bung in...also AEM makes a bolt in (wrap around) WB02 bung you don't have to weld..just drill the hole and put this thing around the exhaust and tighten it up..works great for those who don't have welding access
 
Awesome, I will look in to that. I know someone who works at the local muffler shop so they might be able to hook me up with a good deal on getting my exhaust put together. Thanks again Glenn
 
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