General Galant engine break in running lean

[Lucas03es]

So I am trying to break in my motor for my galant. I have a Garrett t3/t4 with a full ETS kit, 280 BC cams, wiseco pistons eagle rods. Running a '90 stock ecu for now with 510cc injectors and a 2g MAS. When I fire the motor up, I can get it to idle a bit, but my AEM wideband is reading super lean (---) and it tends to die a lot. I havent let it get completely up to operating temp yet, as I dont want to destroy my motor. I am also trying to adjust my afpr and I have had it up to almost 80 psi and it still reads lean mostof the time. Does anyone have any suggestions for me as to what to do to get this thing running properly?? Thanks!

 

[92AWDHX40]

How are you tuning the car any devices besides a wideband?

 

[Brandon Mau]

Something to tune your car with I.E Link ect. and a T3/T4 with 510cc injectors you need to go bigger for the airflow that turbo will push like 1000cc's.

 

[Lucas03es]

I have another eprom ecu for my car with an ostrich, SD setup, and RC1000s. I was told that running the stock 90 ECU I have (pins 6&14 swapped) with the 2g MAS (20% more airflow) and the 510cc injectors would be enough while breaking the motor in. I was trying to adjust my fuel pressure to compensate the extra fuel for the airflow from the MAS though. I am getting around 15:0 when I unplug the afpr vacuum and plug it with m finger. It slowly rises up to a lean condition after that though.

 

[92AWDHX40]

To make sure things are what they are supposed to be, i would invest in some sort of tuning device, it makes all the difference in the world.

 

[Lucas03es]

I just told you I have an ostrich but its not installed yet.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok i didnt read that part, i would get it installed to tell you more then.

 

[Lucas03es]

I can install it myself no problem, that isnt the issue. I was told to get the car running and broken in before running the Ostrich/Jackal/SD setup. I can install it all, but getting a proper tune on this to break it in would be my issue.

 

[speedy13]

I had the same combo but on a small 16g on my gvr4. if you look at you r log and your wideband, you'll probably see that it jumps aound from rich to lean around the powerband. it's not perfect neither with a 1g mas or a 2g mas. get it tuned asap.

 

[Lucas03es]

I have the means to tune the car, but like I said I was told on two different forums to break in the motor first and then make the switch to the tuning set up. The 2G MAS flows more air than stock, and the 510cc injectors are almost ideal to match the additional air flow.

If someone who has some ostrich experience (Jackal, Tunerpro, or other) to contribute to the thread that would be awesome.

When I first fire the car, the wideband will read in the stoich area (14.8-15.5) however after a few seconds of idling the AFR will climb to where it is too lean for the gauge to read. I know the 280 cams will affect the air flow, but would that be the only contributing factor to why my AFR is so high?
Also, would the turbo affect the AFR at all? It has a .70 cold side and .82 hot side.

 

[Lucas03es]

So I did not have my front o2 sensor hooked up, so I ran a new wire from the wideband gauge down to the ECU input. The car seems to be wanting to run a bit better now. My oil pressure gauge (Crappy sunpro, just using to make sure I have oil pressure) is pegged at around 100 psi. Is this normal?

Also, the car doesn't seem to want to idle still, but I think it may be related to the size of the cams. What kind of inHg should I be seeing? When I first fire the motor up and before I give it any throttle it is reading somewhere around -10inHg. Is this normal?

I have not done a BLT yet, as I cannot find a tester that will fit the 4" inlet on my turbo. I figured it would be alright because its an all new full FMIC kit. Does anyone know somewhere that has a decent priced 4" BLT?

I appreciate all help as always, thanks guys!!

 

[Brandon Mau]

With the 280 camshafts your running your the vacuum will be around that -10 hg due to the overlap that aggresive camshaft has. Your valves are open for longer to support higher R.P.M power with the turbo you are running.
Never assume you do not have any boost leaks until you perform one regardless if everything is brand new.
For your oil pressure you are talking about anitial startup until your motor is all warmed up to operating temperature? Upon initial start-up my cheap glowshift oil pressure gauge reads high also until the motor is completely warm and driven for a couple minutes. But in all honesty every car is different when it comes to oil pressure readings.
Here is a link to Ebay that has the 4" BLT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOOST-LEAK-..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c1939ef0

 

[Lucas03es]

Ouch $40 for a BLT seems pretty steep, but I guess I will pay it if I cant find a different option. Has anyone just gone to HD/Lowes and gotten a 4" pvc end cap and installed a tire valve stem in it? I was thinking about that and it would cost around $5.

What is a safe base fuel pressure to run? I am trying to get the most out of these 510s for the time being.

 

[Brandon Mau]

Many people make there own BLT's and yes it is much cheaper to make your own.
Here is a link to F.I.C's flow calculator for injectors. Now most injectors are flow tested at 43.5 base fuel pressure and you can turn it up to squeeze more out of the injector. I have seen guys on here running over 60 P.S.I for base fuel pressure. Now that is only what I have read from other members you just have to do some research on how much pressure your EVO injectors can take and you will have your answer. It all comes down to research and having the right parts for your set-up it would make it much easier just to buy bigger injectors.
http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/injectors/technical/flow-calculator.html