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Tuning/ Break in advise

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safirenside

10+ Year Contributor
170
0
Jan 28, 2011
houston, Texas
Ill be getting my engine back form the machine shop this week and id like to know the best way to break in the engine. Since ive changed the compression ratio from a 9.6 to a 8.5 , walbro 225 fuelpump turbo ect. How do I break the motor in and tune at the same time? I will be using meagsquirt to tune with.
 
The main point of an engine break in is to get the piston rings to seat the cylinder walls properly. Not doing so will result in a loss of optimal static compression/excessive blow by. To do this, the piston rings need to expand while the engine is running from heat/pressure. On the contrary to what others may say.. DO NOT BABY THE ENGINE. This doesn't mean "drive it like you stole it" either. Stay off the highway and don't stay at a constant cruising speed. Short acceleration bursts at a low power level to 5500rpm or so at 1/2 throttle-3/4 throttle. Let the engine decelerate the car while still in gear. I am not familiar with megasquirt on a dsm, so maybe someone else could chime in on tuning tips. DO not run the car way rich. This will wash down the cylinder walls with fuel and prevent the rings from properly cutting.

When you first start the car, let it idle to operating temps. BE SURE to check for leaks! Very important! Use SAE standard motor oil 10w-40 or a break in oil of some sort. Don't use synthetic oil for break in. AMS recommends oil changes with SAE oil at 20, 500, and 1500 miles before going to synthetic. I have done similar break-ins to this when I used to build small block v8 engines. I used this>>http://amsperformance.com/instructions/EngineBreakInInstructions.pdf for my stock block build last year and am currently doing it for my new full build. Never had an issue with this style break in any engine application.

Oh and be sure (if you are assembling the engine) to install the piston ring gaps in their proper location and to also properly gap the piston rings. Hope this helps
 
I followed this break-in method, with a few minor changes, and was sitting at near perfect compression by sunset.

Use regular 10W30 oil.
Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly. (Assuming new valvetrain)
No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it (I prefe to fluctuate between 2500-3500) for 20-30 minutes.
Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level. (Disregard for NA)
At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.
 
Op your best bet would be to run the car as N/A to break it in with a stock tune (symtech labs has base tunes for ms1-3 for 420a eclipses i found it to be a good starting point). Then add in the turbo and tune with ms. Unless you already have a good turbo base tune but I am guessing you don't have one yet.

Also I broke in my engine like everyone else has posted and have had great results as well.
 
Op your best bet would be to run the car as N/A to break it in with a stock tune (symtech labs has base tunes for ms1-3 for 420a eclipses i found it to be a good starting point). Then add in the turbo and tune with ms. Unless you already have a good turbo base tune but I am guessing you don't have one yet.

Also I broke in my engine like everyone else has posted and have had great results as well.

Ok so with the base tune I should be alright since I've changed the compression ratio and won't be running rich or lean. and that is running stock fuel pump and Injectors non turbo set up.
 
Yes it is but you should be able to compensate for the bigger injectors rather easily in tunerstudio (if that is what you a using). I am no pro at tunerstudio but that's what I use. Also the licensed version is totally worth the $50. The auto tune will be your best friend!

I don't have my computer in front of me right now but il get back to you on the injector stuff. As far as the fuel pump as long as its regulated to stock pressure there will be no worries there.

Also. What version of ms are you running?
 
Yes it is but you should be able to compensate for the bigger injectors rather easily in tunerstudio (if that is what you a using). I am no pro at tunerstudio but that's what I use. Also the licensed version is totally worth the $50. The auto tune will be your best friend!

I don't have my computer in front of me right now but il get back to you on the injector stuff. As far as the fuel pump as long as its regulated to stock pressure there will be no worries there.

Also. What version of ms are you running?

I haven't purchased it yet. I'll get my block back tomorrow then next week I'll buy Ms and im gonna purchase the a wideband from them along with the license. Which one would you recommend? Thanks for the info.
 
I am running ms3 with the expansion board mainly because of price vs what you get. I got mine through DIYautotune as a kit and I assembled it myself. Ms3 just has more features and the expansion board ms3x allow for even more inputs/outputs. It all goes into what you are looking to do.

I went with ms3x because I want it to run everything it can. It is already set up for siquencial fuel and spark with the cam sensor input. Also with all the extra out puts it can run a meth injection system, boost control all kinds of stuff. The ms3 also has larger fuel and spark tables I believe.

All the megasquirt stuff is very well documented on msextra.com.
 

I know this much but you can't do this break in if you've changed compression ratio and could be running lean or rich. This is were the tuning advise comes in.

I am running ms3 with the expansion board mainly because of price vs what you get. I got mine through DIYautotune as a kit and I assembled it myself. Ms3 just has more features and the expansion board ms3x allow for even more inputs/outputs. It all goes into what you are looking to do.

I went with ms3x because I want it to run everything it can. It is already set up for siquencial fuel and spark with the cam sensor input. Also with all the extra out puts it can run a meth injection system, boost control all kinds of stuff. The ms3 also has larger fuel and spark tables I believe.

All the megasquirt stuff is very well documented on msextra.com.

Ok thanks.
 
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