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1G Ecu!?! Messed Up? Pics!

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n00btalon

15+ Year Contributor
197
0
Aug 13, 2005
lebanon, Pennsylvania
I decided to check my ECU to one see if its eprom and two see if there might be anything leaking or not... and When I pulled it out there was a sticker saying it has been Rebuilt when I took the cover off I found this! :barf: :banghead: :barf:


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I have more pictures coming! give me a few
 

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u dont see that big eff'in solder mess ? and the caps are all tweeked?

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blackish? bad??


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:banghead:


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:cry::barf:
 

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Yup caps are done for, does it smelly like rotting seafood? PM steve , I believe he rebuilds ECU's.

and which are the caps? those black rectangle ones are all stuck together! and the ones where all taht ''rust'' solder is are all bent... but yea it was sealed shut and had a sticker on it saying it was rebuilt, all the connectors are still to the board but ehh :cry:

it doesnt smell... haha but who ever rebuilt it the first time either didnt know what they were doing or just sucked at it, or it got eff'd up bad again? why is it all ''rusty'' and all that solder?
 
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The caps are the cylindrical shaped bits. Yours are dead. Get your caps replaced by someone that has an idea what they are doing.
 
The caps are the cylindrical shaped bits. Yours are dead. Get your caps replaced by someone that has an idea what they are doing.

k thanks but should those black pieces on the right side be stuck together?? and what is with all this solder?


also the car runs, the only issue im having is with getting the idle set, but i think that has to do with the new TPS not being set right... what symptoms go with dead caps??
 
it doesnt smell... haha but who ever rebuilt it the first time either didnt know what they were doing or just sucked at it, or it got eff'd up bad again? why is it all ''rusty'' and all that solder?

They just do the repairs really cheaply and you can see the result. The stickers are just a deterrent so you don't see what a hack job they've done.

Did I miss the underlying question, sure it looks like crap and it's not an EPROM ECU but is it not working?

The array of vertical black single inline pin (SIP) chips are the drivers for the ISC and solenoids. I can't see them well enough to say if any of them are blown but that would cause idle speed problems.
 
They just do the repairs really cheaply and you can see the result. The stickers are just a deterrent so you don't see what a hack job they've done.

Did I miss the underlying question, sure it looks like crap and it's not an EPROM ECU but is it not working?

as for right now the only issue i have is getting the the idle correct, after putting on the tps it's close, but I dont have the tools needed to set the TPS correctly...

when i ground the two places vfaq says and set the biss to about 800-850rpm's remove and check the idle is at 1,100 at operating temp, my ISC tests good as well, oh and on a cold start up, the thing will rev instantly to go to 2,500 until it warms, no surge tho!

reason i had it out was mainly to check for eprom and problems because that was said to possibly be an issue with the idle...

The array of vertical black single inline pin (SIP) chips are the drivers for the ISC and solenoids. I can't see them well enough to say if any of them are blown but that would cause idle speed problems.

as for the black chips i dont know what you mean by blown out, but u can see those ones that look like they are touching well they are, and they are stuck together, i tried lightly messing with them to see if they were just bent slightly but no go.
 
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You need to set the TPS to output between 0.48v and 0.52v when the throttle is closed.
The Throttle Body needs to be grounded so that the IPS can function and tell the ECU that the throttle is closed.
The ISC and ISC drivers in the ECU need to be good.
No boost or vacuum leaks.
The BISS is then set to 750 RPM when the engine is warmed up unless you have a chip that changes the idle speed.

as for the black chips i dont know what you mean by blown out, but u can see those ones that look like they are touching well they are, and they are stuck together, i tried lightly messing with them to see if they were just bent slightly but no go.

It doesn't matter if they touch and if they do they are usually stuck together by the waxy coating used to protect the board from moisture.
 
You need to set the TPS to output between 0.48v and 0.52v when the throttle is closed.
The Throttle Body needs to be grounded so that the IPS can function and tell the ECU that the throttle is closed.

how do i test the volts when setting?

and what do you mean by the throttle body needs to be grounded?

It doesn't matter if they touch and if they do they are usually stuck together by the waxy coating used to protect the board from moisture.

yea actually that looks like what it could be, i was going to mention that.

how do you know so much?:aha:
 
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how do i test the volts when setting?

and what do you mean by the throttle body needs to be grounded?

Depends on what you have to work with. If you have a SAFC then there is a sensor check screen that will tell you the TPS voltage. If you have a logger you can log the TPS output, 10% is about 0.5v.

Which part about it being grounded don't you get?

The Idle Position Switch on the back of the throttle body tells the ECU when the throttle is closed. The IPS body needs to be grounded to work and since it screws into the throttle body, the throttle body needs to be grounded. Normally there is a metal strap that screws onto the top of the TB that runs to one of the bolts for the throttle elbow and that provides the ground. That strap is often missing because people don't know what it's for and don't put it back on when they work on the car.

how do you know so much?:aha:

I bought my DSM new and the same day I bought the car I bought the Factory Service Manuals. After 18 years you learn a few things.
 
I bought my DSM new and the same day I bought the car I bought the Factory Service Manuals. After 18 years you learn a few things.


holy 18 years? didnt mitsu hire you yet?

yea the strap is missing, i see where it goes, is there another way to ground it? or should i somehow try to find the strap? i think its way gone tho
 
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is there another way to ground it?

What you need is a screw that fits in the top of the TB. The you can run a wire from it to the ground braid on the intake manifold where you adjust the throttle cable or directly to the firewall.
 
What you need is a screw that fits in the top of the TB. The you can run a wire from it to the ground braid on the intake manifold where you adjust the throttle cable or directly to the firewall.

ok i grounded it, now testing the volts of the ips... its at like 8volts... should i adjust it till its almost 0 with the throttle open? the ips is definitely touching now wont adjusting it more possibly hold the throttle open slightly at idle?
 
ok i grounded it, now testing the volts of the ips... its at like 8volts... should i adjust it till its almost 0 with the throttle open? the ips is definitely touching now wont adjusting it more possibly hold the throttle open slightly at idle?

No, you don't touch the factory IPS adjustment. It's a critical setting since it also acts as the throttle stop and how much air leaks past when the throttle is closed.

It should be 0v with the throttle closed and >5v when the throttle is slightly opened.

It's the TPS that you adjust not the IPS unless somebody has already messed with it.
 
No, you don't touch the factory IPS adjustment. It's a critical setting since it also acts as the throttle stop and how much air leaks past when the throttle is closed.

It should be 0v with the throttle closed and >5v when the throttle is slightly opened.

It's the TPS that you adjust not the IPS unless somebody has already messed with it.


yea someone already messed with it :( and that somone not being me, when the surge started awhile ago the person looking at it thought that the ips was the issue because the surge would go away when they unplugged it so they adjusted it... so give me laymens terms on how to adjust it, i think i thottle cable might need adjusting too, because when it idles if it press on the bracket that the cable connects too and press it towards the switch (making it press the switch in further) the idle will then drop from 1100 to around what it should be! so yea... :confused:
 
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