The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

ECU maybe?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dom Torreto

Probationary Member
7
0
Aug 29, 2017
Pueblo, Colorado
So I have a 1995 talon that's been my project for over 2 years now. I've done a lot of work to her as far as replacing all of the engine sensors, MAP, IAC, TBPS, Cam, Crank etc. Replaced the fuel filter, and ran some BG though the system, also replaced the ignition switch. I've taken the throttle body off and cleaned it also replaced the gasket. In hopes that it solves this issue that I've had at random since I bought the car from its one owner. Some days it seems to run fine, others for some reason it stalls when at idle and randomly cuts ignition as if I turned the car off for a split second. I'm stumped. The last thing I can think of is that there is a broken capacitor or something in this 95' ecu.. any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
You can take the ECU out and open it up to check for leaks or other damage. Anything past that advice though you would need someone else to give information because other than building desktop computers I dont know much about the inner workings of chips and other things like that.
 
Well it's actually a 420a ecu and the actual motherboard is incased in a silicone so you can't actually open it and see what broken or not unfortunately.
 
try another ecu or take a good look at ignition component wiring and connectors for anything broken. probe connectors lightly with a pick to see if their contacts are done for. sometimes they break and interrupt ignition randomly and without warning, doesnt matter what platform. ask me how i know LOL
 
Really? Its encased in silicon? I guess thats where Apple started getting their ludicrous ideas on how to not make their products repairable, even by their own staff. Leave it up to America to find out ways so people cant repair their own stuff or have a 3rd party repair it.

I cant even find a picture of the internals of the computer so they must be a pain to repair.
 
The ECU is in the engine bay so the circuit board needs to be encased to protect against moisture, vibration, dirt, etc. Sure, there are other ways to enclose the PCB, but I wouldn't say this was done to screw the consumer.
 
There are other ways to waterproof something than to encase it in silicon so you can't check the insides. It's just like glueing batteries into a phone or laptop, it's overkill.

Could just have a cubby hole like some cars have with rubber between between the ECU and the chassis to cut down on vibration. Put a door on it with a rubber seal to protect against the elements. Encasing it in silicon is lazy and makes it harder for everyone in the future from the consumer to 3rd party repair companies and even in house repair. If you can't access the inner workings you can do even more damage to components. It's happening with things now with Apple and even Microsoft with glueing things like the keyboard in. When you remove them you can damage other things like the case which sometimes gets damaged just getting into the machine.

Even if the intention isn't to screw over the consumer it still does because things weren't thought through.
 
Yes, I know--I said there are other ways to protect the PCB. It's not worth our time to debate why they chose this route; there are a ton of reasons other than planned obsolescence and laziness. After all, how many ECU's do you think they really expect to sell to one person? It's not like what we see in modern phones, IMO.
 
I just remembered that I had a similar issue years ago when I had my 1.8L in my car and it was a loose wire going to the battery. Most of the time it would have connection and then it would lose connection and it acted just like turning the key to the car. I would make sure the battery connections are clean and tight, and I would go over the grounds as well. Corrosion and rust as well as a loose connection doesnt play well with electricity and its flow.

The issue doesnt sound like an ECU issue since the issues that I ever had with either my 1.8 or 2.0 the computers just died and there was no intermittent issues. Not saying that there couldnt be, but it isnt the norm from my experience. At least checking the connections is free.
 
Update: I drove the car for about an hour today, started up and ran fine the whole time. No hiccups or stalls, drove her on some curvy roads and hit a couple bumps here and there since or roads are trash here. But I suspect if it were a loose wire it would have done it while I were driving like usual. Just another example of some days shes perfect and others it's like WTF. Pulled her in the garage and popped the hood to give her some air and noticed the ecu was making this sort of faint whine, I put my ear up to it and that's where it was coming from. Don't know if any of you have heard that same sound. Almost like white noise, or similar to an alternator whine but not as loud.
 
It's pretty dry where I live so she's pretty much rust free. I'm sure all the grounds are hooked up correctly. I'm going to check down by the interior fuse box and see if I notice any loose wires. When I replaced the ignition switch I checked all the wiring in that location and it all seemed tight.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top