Jovie
Proven Member
- 66
- 5
- Apr 13, 2024
-
Franklinpark,
Illinois
Recently I rebuilt my engine, I have gotten a first start but my engine dies after a minute or so.
I am using ECMLink for tuning and tuning off of a laptop. I have watched a few videos and read a good amount of articles in relation to getting a smooth tune, general tuning and more specific quirks / features of ECMLink. I believe I have all values needed to tune set and would like to get the tune dialed in for the streets.
I have been through multiple checklists including list of values to log, help from the experts and Six Sigma tuning's checklist.
I understand some of the very basics such as trying to get a AFR of 14.7 and am currently reading more threads and studying the ECMLink wiki to try and get a better grasp on the things I don't understand at all. I set up my 950cc injectors according to the wiki as opposed to the calculator although reading some threads about this it does not seem to matter (much) which you do. Is one more accurate / recommended over the other?
I was looking to get some help with my tune in order to get it back on the road. My horsepower goal is around 300 - 350 if possible and in general, fun. If my mods will not support that type of horsepower I am happy to lower my expectations, I do not want to blow up my engine and want to be able to take it on road trips in the future.
I have linked a photo below of how I have my viewing of logs set up, if you have any suggestions of things that should be removed or more prevalent on my view please let me know. I have also linked a log of the car starting and reving a small amount at idle, I don't want to go out on my first drive running how it is, it is idling rough and then once I let off the throttle it dies / sputters like it wants to die.
I noticed that the AFR is far to high at around 22.4 most of the time and when i tried to use the "MAF comp adjust" feature it tells me I must have the raw MAF data logged, for some reason I do not have a raw MAF data value available for logging but I do have a "MDPRaw" value, from looking around to my understanding a MAF and MDP are the same thing but the MDP is the factory version, is this correct and if so is their a way to use the calculation feature with the MDP raw data instead of the MAF raw data?
I believe I have the ability / know how to dial in the MAF comp graph manually once I have a general idea of what it is supposed to look like. I plan to use an older video by TPG as a sort of guide in order to dial this in once I have a baseline, running car. I would like to think that the "Hacked 2g" template will be a good jumping off point in getting this started, does this look and sound logical after reviewing the log?
I realize that it is running far to lean and would like to fix that, I believe doing what I stated above will do so in a safe manor but am wondering if their is anything else I should be changing in my tune, reworking or generally trying to fix before upping the boost / trying to make more power?
Any help is appreciated and thank you in advance!
I am using ECMLink for tuning and tuning off of a laptop. I have watched a few videos and read a good amount of articles in relation to getting a smooth tune, general tuning and more specific quirks / features of ECMLink. I believe I have all values needed to tune set and would like to get the tune dialed in for the streets.
I have been through multiple checklists including list of values to log, help from the experts and Six Sigma tuning's checklist.
I understand some of the very basics such as trying to get a AFR of 14.7 and am currently reading more threads and studying the ECMLink wiki to try and get a better grasp on the things I don't understand at all. I set up my 950cc injectors according to the wiki as opposed to the calculator although reading some threads about this it does not seem to matter (much) which you do. Is one more accurate / recommended over the other?
I was looking to get some help with my tune in order to get it back on the road. My horsepower goal is around 300 - 350 if possible and in general, fun. If my mods will not support that type of horsepower I am happy to lower my expectations, I do not want to blow up my engine and want to be able to take it on road trips in the future.
I have linked a photo below of how I have my viewing of logs set up, if you have any suggestions of things that should be removed or more prevalent on my view please let me know. I have also linked a log of the car starting and reving a small amount at idle, I don't want to go out on my first drive running how it is, it is idling rough and then once I let off the throttle it dies / sputters like it wants to die.
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I noticed that the AFR is far to high at around 22.4 most of the time and when i tried to use the "MAF comp adjust" feature it tells me I must have the raw MAF data logged, for some reason I do not have a raw MAF data value available for logging but I do have a "MDPRaw" value, from looking around to my understanding a MAF and MDP are the same thing but the MDP is the factory version, is this correct and if so is their a way to use the calculation feature with the MDP raw data instead of the MAF raw data?
I believe I have the ability / know how to dial in the MAF comp graph manually once I have a general idea of what it is supposed to look like. I plan to use an older video by TPG as a sort of guide in order to dial this in once I have a baseline, running car. I would like to think that the "Hacked 2g" template will be a good jumping off point in getting this started, does this look and sound logical after reviewing the log?
I realize that it is running far to lean and would like to fix that, I believe doing what I stated above will do so in a safe manor but am wondering if their is anything else I should be changing in my tune, reworking or generally trying to fix before upping the boost / trying to make more power?
Any help is appreciated and thank you in advance!

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