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Things I've noticed...
-Your AFRest seems way off during closed loop particularly
-You have no MAFcomp adjustments and it seems like you need them

I'm learning too soo these are merely observations! Hope it helps.

During this clip (dsmtuner timing pull bumps.elg) there are some spots where pretty serious timing is being pulled. In those instances you're almost never coming out of closed loop and you're well into 60% + area. In conjunction with these instances your AFRest is seriously, seriously lean. You're feeling the motor pulling timing.

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i have a much more bouncy idle and the occasional miss or pop at idle.

I'll point out what I can.

You have an issue with your TPS. TPSvolts at idle are very low, jumpy, and read 0.00 at times. It should read 0.63v at idle if functioning correctly.

You're running evo injectors correct? (deadtime zero)

I've never seen horsepower values spike up under no throttle, idle conditions like yours do.

Your airflow or fuel is off. Right click on the log and look at the MAFcomp adjust tool. Check the Wiki for the adjustment procedure. Airflow and fuel need to be in the ballpark for the car to function properly, and you're not in it. That's why your AirFlowPerRev is too low, your RPMs are too high, then your front o2 isn't cycling at idle, which don't allow your fuel trims to update, etc. One inaccurate data point can have far-reaching negative effects.

Take 64 seconds for example. Your boost (well boost est.) is at 3+ psi, you're at >40% throttle, yet you're in Closed Loop, your front o2 is cycling, and you're bouncing around stoich. So, get a wideband and a loggable boost source asap and adjust your airflow via the MAFcomp adjustment too, but only after you verify all the other pertinent data and fix any mechanical issues the car may have. Accuracy is paramount.

Otherwise, without accurate airflow or wideband or boost data, I'm afraid I'm not much help.

During this clip (dsmtuner timing pull bumps.elg) there are some spots where pretty serious timing is being pulled. In those instances you're almost never coming out of closed loop and you're well into 60% + area. In conjunction with these instances your AFRest is seriously, seriously lean. You're feeling the motor pulling timing.

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I reviewed that section, here's what I saw.

Take 1.799 seconds as our analysis point, since that's the highest AFR we see in that pull at 12.4 which seems very lean at first glance, but lets investigate further. Go to the log and hit F9. Then go to Available Values and select "Load Factor" as a value to be displayed. Now we can see the LoadFactor on the log. At 1.799 seconds, the LoadFactor is 0.88, which is significant because the factory map on the DSM has a varying AFR target depending on the load it sees. To see this load target, right click on the log and select "ECU Direct Access." Scan down until you see OpenLoopMaxOctane and select it. These are the AFRs the car targets, as load and RPM dictate.

Now, find 0.9 on the Load Factor (the left column), then scan over the top column to 3500rpm. We should be seeing 12.9AFR or just slightly higher. Then, click back to the log and we see an AFRest of 10.9 which is a full 2 points off according to the value we just looked up, but then again its the "estimate," we don't know if it's calculated correctly.

So, what we have is a brief view on why the Direct Access tables are more accurate, and provides the user with a better understanding of what the car is trying to do under all conditions. We can see that the airflow is not calculating correctly, and adjustments are necessary. We also see that under loads which the car considers "light," the target AFR will be much leaner (12.0:1) than we're all used to seeing (9.5:1).
 
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so it sounds like i need a new tps and possibly o2 sensor? Thats what i got out of your guys help. And i have tried doing the mafcomp but it just makes things worse it seems. Even with adjustments im no where close to the airflowperrev of .25 or so. With 60% adjustment i can get there but that is way too much adjustment i believe from what ive heard. Ill get on the tps and o2 sensors soon so i can start getting more accurate logs of driving

and that would also help me understand why im not seeing full boost tell late 4k rpms LOL. And no large boost leaks.

here is a newer log, looks like the tps was working fine this time and so was the front o2 sensor. take a look at this idle log and lemme know what you see
 

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Did you block off your ICS at all? It's showing a value of 0. You want a value of 30 on there by adjusting your BISS and letting the ICS to open/close.

If you have a wideband, I would suggest going with narrow band simulation. It's one less sensor to deal with and it will give a quicker/more accurate reading when the WB is located up front.

I would also log "Radiator Fan" as when that kicks on, your fuel trims and airflow will adjust.
 
im doing the tps simulation of the idle switch so that might be why thats happening. Also i do not have a wideband quite yet. Thats next on the list, right next to whatever sensors need to be replaced
 
If something is not working or logging correctly is doesn't necessarily mean its faulty, it could be a wiring issue or something else preventing proper operation.

Ill take a look at the new log when I get to my computer.
 
alright and thank you for taking the time to help me out, im not looking to make excessive power, just want a good DD that can go WOT without worry. And also a nice clean smooth ride
 
TPS sensor or idle switch has nothing to do with the ICS position. You either have an ICS that is unplugged, damaged, or out of range due to an improperly adjusted BISS.
 
I never said you needed a new ICS/IAC. What you want to do is unscrew the BISS little by little and see if the value will change.

You can also go and check the coils to make sure they are all working properly and not burnt out.
DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!
 
Why are you simulating the idle switch? Are you not using a 2g TPS? Or is it because of the DTC code you're getting?

Also, I would recommend using either the DA tables or the sliders. I see you have non-factory timing tables, but also have timing pulled using the sliders. They do stack on top of each other when you adjust both, so to keep everything straight, I would choose one method.
 
i have the tps simulating the idle switch because when i used the isc my idle would go up to like 1400-1600 or so after a long drive. So i simulated and havent had the issue since, also idk what you meant by the timing tables, i havent changed anything in there i dont believe.
 
english racing did a rough tune when i had them trouble shoot my no start when i got the new engine in. Must have been them cause i havent had anyone else tune the car yet. It needs one bad though! LOL
 
the thing is if you look at past logs its shows values in those fields. Some logs dont have those values like the tps and isc showing anything. Ill check connectors today and possibly use some di electric grease?
 
the thing is if you look at past logs its shows values in those fields. Some logs dont have those values like the tps and isc showing anything.



an ISC that is unplugged, damaged, or out of range

These are the possibilities.. So, just do a quick are-my-sensors-connected-properly check on these. If they're good, then test the ISC and go from there.
 
alright so i got my new turbo in a fp green and threw some 850cc injectors in as well. It is also running SD now. When i had the fuel adjustments zeroed out i got mad knock so i added fuel via the sliders as i am unsure as of now how to adjust the SD tables to give more fuel (if anyone can give me some insight on that that would be perfect). In 4th and 5th gear at full boost i am seeing some knock with this setup. Just trying to see if anyone has any observations or advise on what to do next! Also if someone wants to help me dial in my SD tables that would be much appreciated!

here is the log
 

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That's only for closed loop though and my knock is at open loop or WOT. Anyone have advice on tuning for that.

You can't expect to use the SD map that is provided.

No engines VE is the Same an that one that come pre loaded is far from what is going to work for you IMO...

This May help you get a better understanding of what your doing How To Tune a Dsm with V3 SD ECMLink with no MAF

Edit:
Also you do realize that you running 525us of dead-time right? you have deadtime adjusted in you fuel tab and DA tables.
 
no i didnt know i had the deadtime that high, i didnt even know you could change it in the direct access area. I only changed it under the fuel tab.

I got a lot better idea of what im supposed to be doing by reading those articles. Today i am going to be resetting the fuel sliders to zero and bringing the timing sliders back up and going in and manually adjusting the SD tables up to allow for more fuel to be added, making it think more airflow is present so increasing the amount of fuel added. If this sounds right to everyone give me the thumbs up or something and ill post back with the results later on today.
 
alright so i got the 850cc injectors in the car and have a wideband installed and logged now. Just trying to figure out why im having knock at low timing on my setup with a 10.5 - 10.0 afr. Attached is a log doing a second gear pull. Not alot of long roads with higher speed limits here and i didnt get to the highway today. Let me know what you guys think and ill add another log of the car doing a 2,3,4 pull tomorrow. Also the car is only making like 320hp via link with the fp green at 20 psi. Let me know what you guys think

oops forgot to post the log..... here it is

oops forgot to post the log..... here it is
 

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