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if anyone can take a look at the logs, at idle shouldnt my o2 be cycling alot more often. All of the examples i have seen it goes up then down real sharp, mine goes up, plateaus and then goes down and plateaus. Im wondering if this might be what overrun looks like or if my o2 is bad? The wiring on my o2 right as it goes into the actual sensor is a little frayed so im wondering which route it could be.
 
yes, it looks like your o2 isnt getting a proper reading/cycling properly... that almost looks like its logging the rear o2 in the front o2s place... front o2 should cycle a lot higher, voltage wise
 
ya i was wondering about the o2, there are exposed wires as i stated earlier, now would this problem attribute to my semi rough idle??? Obviously if the engine isn't cycling properly it cant be running right, but when i am actually cruising it looks to be cycling. That's why i wasn't sure if this was something that looks like afpr overrun. Just trying to get some professionals opinions cause regardless of what it is i am going to get it fixed this weekend. If its the o2 I'm likely to put a wideband in its place and log that
 
From what I got from researching, you need the front O2 for closed loop. The rear one you can take off and put the WB in its place then disable the cat efficiency checks. Also make sure you get the O2 that can be linked to your ecu like LC-1 does. GL
 
but i was also reading that you can use your wideband as your front o2 and simulate the o2 voltage for the ecu. Wouldnt this be the better way to go since i might already have a faulty o2 and this would get me the wideband readings as well as replacing the possibly faulty o2 sensor?
 
so does it appear to you people who are looking at my log that my front o2 sensor is going out or is fried? Please get back to me on this as i need to purchase one soon if you feel it is.

i went in and changed the injector voltage and now the car wont idle at all

here is a log of me when i got the injectors changed in voltage, the maf needed like 60% adjustment to get to .24 per rev. The combined fuel trims were in check as well. Someone take a look at this log and tell me what they see.
 

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ok so now whenever i try to get into boost it bogs down so badly, im thinking that maybe my MAF is toast and that might have explained the readings it was seeing at idle? Anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
are you getting Knock again?
Without another log of what's Going on ATM though, nobody will be able to tell you much... .

Something besides your car Idleing as well...
 
no the knock light isnt coming on when this is happening, feels similar to feel cut but not as brutal, more of a bog where it just loses all power. Ill take a log tomorrow of it ideling and then going out and boosting. No settings have been changed yet because i was not able to dial one thing in without it greatly throwing off another
 
here is a clip from a log i took where the problem was happening where it cuts out on me during boost, does anyone know what could cause this???
 

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i know i have a slightly week output alternator, and i had the stereo on and heater LOL. What made you lead to a bad maf from that log, just trying to understand all this stuff, i figure ill be getting a used maf and a new o2 sensor soon since those are what seem to be the 2 main problems.
 
would this be a good time to switch to speed density or a gm maf???? Im thinking there is no reason to justify the cost of a new part when i could get one with higher benefits for a little bit more, or possibly less even

anyone have any other thoughts on that last log and why i would not be able to get past a certain boost level
 
anyone else able to verify that by looking at the log, i dont know as much about maf problems as i do other things and would love to have some other peoples inputs before i take an action
 
found my issue it was a monster boost leak haha, had to trace everything and i blew a t bolt clamp. Also i was wondering if my MAFraw is lower because i have a 2.4l with a 9:1 compression. Wouldnt this change the mafraw numbers from the .25gm/rev to something else??
 
why would my airflowperrev go up when the AC is on. It gets to the .24 to .25 level with the ac on but with it off its down to .15
More load on the engine requires more power which requires more airflow. Your ISCPosition also went up in order to let more air in.

Thomas Dorris
 
could AFPR overrun cause the airflowperrev to be down as well. Because i have not got an AFPR yet and i may have overrun. Just trying to figure my issue out so i can fix it properly.

also i just realized i need to change the loadscale to .83 for my 2.4l setup. That will probably make a good deal of difference im guessing
 
could AFPR overrun cause the airflowperrev to be down as well. Because i have not got an AFPR yet and i may have overrun. Just trying to figure my issue out so i can fix it properly.

also i just realized i need to change the loadscale to .83 for my 2.4l setup. That will probably make a good deal of difference im guessing

wait, do you already have an AFPR, or the original FPR?
 
so i switched the scaleload to 83.3% for my 2.4l Since then i have a much more bouncy idle and the occasional miss or pop at idle. Also im getting alot more knock at different throttle levels even if i dont have any boost built up yet. Damn this can get frustrating LOL

here is the most recent log, now since i have switched the scalevalue to 83.3% i am getting much more knock, maybe you all can give me a reason why cause i cant see one
 

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