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ECMlink Idle with NO ISC

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BadManGSX

10+ Year Contributor
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Jan 16, 2010
Youngstown, Ohio
I need assistance with getting my NON ISC motor Wilson Throttle body to idle correctly via ecmlink v3 (SD). As shown in my log you will see that my TPS is adjusted correctly and I am simulating my idle switch. When I first fire the car up it idles very high for a couple seconds then goes into a loop of erratic idle between about 1,500 and 2,500 rpm. If I disable the idle switch operation it goes to a constant high idle somewhere around 3500 rpm. I know this can be made to work.. I’m just not sure how to do it. I am able to drive it, although I have only gone around the block because I have not been able to set base timing at 5* because of this and I am getting bad knock when I give it little throttle. I do NOT have any vacuum leaks before anyone asks.. If anyone could please assist it would be much appreciated. Thanks
 

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Not sure how to do that in link but when i eliminated my ISC what really worked to keep the idle steady was having to modulate the timing with idle error. So when the rpms start droping my ems would raise timing and when they start rising it would lower timing, besides adjusting the BISS screw this and of itself did magic to my idle.
 
My guess that if your throttle don't have a biss screw then there should be another screw that will allow you to push the throttle plate open/close, it might be that your throttle plate is open to much to begin with that's why your car idles so high. Another thing is if you have your base timing set to high that will cause your car to idle higher then normal.
 
That is what I was planning on trying today. There is a "closed position" set screw adjustment for the throttle blade that I will try to mess with. If I can get the idle steady then I will set my 5* advance, and then start tuning from there.
 
Simply put, there is too much air entering the engine with the throttle plate in the "closed" position, and ECMlink in "idle switch closed" mode. If you have zero vacuum leaks, then the air bypassing the throttle plate is too much and is driving the idle up and the ECU is trying to combat it...causing idle surge. Have you read the ECMlink wiki regarding this?

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
Simply put, there is too much air entering the engine with the throttle plate in the "closed" position, and ECMlink in "idle switch closed" mode. If you have zero vacuum leaks, then the air bypassing the throttle plate is too much and is driving the idle up and the ECU is trying to combat it...causing idle surge. Have you read the ECMlink wiki regarding this?

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

He's running in speed density, so none of that would apply since the air is metered at the intake manifold. I'm not running an ISC motor and my problem is keeping the car running while cold. I can run the car lean or rich and it makes no difference, even a little more timing. I think some of it lies with the 280 cams, but once the engine is warm it idles fine right around 1,100rpm. I've never had a problem with surge, but the S90 throttle body has a biss screw, so that's how i'm adjusting my idle speed. Have you tried posting on the link forums to see if anyone running a similar TB has had the same issues?
 
I have had no luck posting on the link forums. I did although last night get it a bit better. I messed with the VE table a bit in the rpm range it was trying to idle at. That mixed with closing the throttle plate a bit has helped. My rpms are now only bouncing a couple hundred (900-1000) roughly. I still want to make it better, but it is a step in the right direction. It looks as if my fuel is being cut off when the rpms go up judging by my INJon and CombinedFT. I will try playing with it a bit more this week. I am able to drive it with no issues now, which is nice.
 
A couple more idle tips. 1. Adjust idle timing and fuel for the highest vacuum than adjust rpm accordingly.

2. Play around with injector phasing (different from deadtimes). This controls when the injectors start spraying in relation to opening/closing of the intake valves. If you get this right the idle quality is going to change considerably, not to mention engine starting and part throttle.
 
2. Play around with injector phasing (different from deadtimes). This controls when the injectors start spraying in relation to opening/closing of the intake valves. If you get this right the idle quality is going to change considerably, not to mention engine starting and part throttle.

Could you elaborate a bit more with this?? I have not seen anything in ecmlink with injector "phasing". Maybe I have over-looked it.
 
2. Play around with injector phasing (different from deadtimes). This controls when the injectors start spraying in relation to opening/closing of the intake valves. If you get this right the idle quality is going to change considerably, not to mention engine starting and part throttle.

Could you elaborate a bit more with this?? I have not seen anything in ecmlink with injector "phasing". Maybe I have over-looked it.

You can't do this in ECMLink.
 
BadManGSX - Have you considered adding an IAC? It's as easy as drilling and tapping two holes. I plan to do a write-up on it very soon (hopefully this weekend) if you're interested.

I ran my car for one summer without an IAC, and the best I ever got it was 'almost tollerable'. I won't go without one now.
 
gofer- Yes I have done this and it has helped considerably. I am now fluctuating between 900 and 1000 rpms instead of the higher ones I was experiencing beforehand. Just need to get it evened out so I can for sure set by base 5* timing.

99gst_racer- I would definitely be interested in the IAC writeup. There is a plate bolted to the bottom of this throttle body for what I guess where you could install an isc or something of that nature. Maybe a ford style? Anywho... an IAC writeup would be awesome.
 
99gst_racer- I would definitely be interested in the IAC writeup. There is a plate bolted to the bottom of this throttle body for what I guess where you could install an isc or something of that nature. Maybe a ford style? Anywho... an IAC writeup would be awesome.
Got any pics of your TB? Or a link to pics of one?
 
The part number for the Wilson TB is 471075. The vacuum port on the side has been removed and welded shut. My TB also has the Jackson Auto Machine throttle wheel on it as well. I will not be home till later to take pictures but u can look up that part number on google and find some I'm sure. If u still need pics from me then let me know and I will remove it when I get home later and snap some pics.
 
You can use the same adapter that I use on my BBK Mustang TB. FFTEC has since discontinued it, but ExtremePSI does have one or more left in stock. Order it quick because when they're gone, they're gone for good.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

It's more expensive than the way I plan to show in my write-up, but it's well worth the $90 for the good fit and simplicity.
 
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