Eclipse GS problem with out of province inspection

[unfocus]

So I just bought my first car, a 97 eclipse gs. I took it for an out of province inspection here in alberta it passed in 2012 and in Saskatchewan. The car was sitting for a year when i bought it but its running good other then slow acceleration.

I took it for the oop inspection and I failed due to the abs light being. Their scanners couldn't scan the problem of the abs, so I took it to nappa auto-pro to get it scanned( they have 3 different scanners) which none of them could scan the problem. One of them suggested the sensors could be shot but they couldn't test because they didn't have a lift. So I brought the eclipse to Mitsubishi and they unfortunately couldn't scan the code either. The guy there told me to bring it to Chrysler, and he said it could probably be the wiring.

Now I'm home I checked the fuse its good, took it out the light is still on and put it back and the light went off for 1 second. The fluid is good too.

What do I do?? I need to get this car registered soon.

 

[spectre22]

You need to find a shop that has a scanner that can read your abs module. You have to know what the module is seeing that it does not like in order to know where to start diagnosing your problem. I am a master tech at a Brake Masters I do lots of abs diagnostics.

 

[bduran1220]

Or you could do a ABS delete

 

[unfocus]

You need to find a shop that has a scanner that can read your abs module. You have to know what the module is seeing that it does not like in order to know where to start diagnosing your problem. I am a master tech at a Brake Masters I do lots of abs diagnostics.

So Chrysler should probably have a scanner that does it because obviously it's their engine. Same with Canadian Tire because my friend works there, and a bunch of people that work there have dsm's and said they have a lot of scanners.

 

[luv2rallye]

For 2g you can read out the abs codes without a scanner like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

 

[unfocus]

For 2g you can read out the abs codes without a scanner like this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

How do you ground the ports/pin

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

ABS Light ON! How do I turn the light off? - Club DSM Canada

 

[luv2rallye]

How do you ground the ports/pin

Connect pin 1 to body/frame: OBDII - On-Board Diagnostic's System - Does My Car Have OBD-II? The Connector and Communications.

 

[unfocus]

Connect pin 1 to body/frame: OBDII - On-Board Diagnostic's System - Does My Car Have OBD-II? The Connector and Communications.

I grounded pin 1 to pin 4 because I told you could do it that way, did it with a paper clip. It blinked 5 times, 2 sec pause, then 3 short blinks and repeated.
I got code 53, isn't that the pump motor? What's the cost for fixing that average. And what is a pump motor I never heard of it.

Also I was reading somewhere that code 53 could also be fixed by checking the break fluids if they're dirty or air in the brake lines, which I have a ton I can tell, and the car sat for a year. Could bleeding the brakes possibly fix this situation?? Because I was told a pump motor could cost at least 2,000 but I google pump motor and all I got was abs controller pump module which ran around 130.00 which I found odd. Help please, I don't want to have to sell it after buying it.

 

[luv2rallye]

The abs pump motor is the hydraulic unit that feeds brake fluid to (and operates) the individual brakes. Mitsubishi calls it the brake modulator hydraulic unit. Two brake lines from the master cylinder go to it. Yes it will be at least $900 for the part (maybe $1000-$2000 at dealers total to also install). [Your $130 module is just the electronics box.]

DEFINATELY bleed the brakes lines of all air first (and replace fluid if dirty). It could easily be the problem.

 

[unfocus]

The abs pump motor is the hydraulic unit that feeds brake fluid to (and operates) the individual brakes. Mitsubishi calls it the brake modulator hydraulic unit. Two brake lines from the master cylinder go to it. Yes it will be at least $900 for the part (maybe $1000-$2000 at dealers total to also install). [Your $130 module is just the electronics box.]

DEFINATELY bleed the brakes lines of all air first (and replace fluid if dirty). It could easily be the problem.

kay well the good news hopefully is that, if I bleed the brakes and abs still on, there's a 95 eclipse rs or gs, not sure, sitting in our local junk yard call pick 'n' pull so hopefully that has the pump motor.

Oh and the the brakes are alright, but the front wheels are about to go, could that be part of the problem?

 

[luv2rallye]

What do you mean "front wheels are about to go"?
Unless the brakes are affected that's a different problem.
I'd still bleed the brakes first and go from there.

 

[Miasma]

Hey I live in calgary too. Which one did you just buy? Red by chance with whiteish rims?

If you run into issues I might be able to give you a hand.

 

[unfocus]

Hey I live in calgary too. Which one did you just buy? Red by chance with whiteish rims?

If you run into issues I might be able to give you a hand.

I bought a red one from Ponoka above red deer. it's got black rims, edges painted yellow.

What do you mean "front wheels are about to go"?
Unless the brakes are affected that's a different problem.
I'd still bleed the brakes first and go from there.

Front brakes are about to go.

But I have a bigger problem, I have a power drill and used a 13/16 to take out the lugs but its just spinning and damaging the lugs, I tried using a 19mm and same thing. 18mm won't fit. I don't understand, I tried using a tire iron as well, and its way to tight.

 

[Miasma]

Ok, because the eclipse I was referring to was for sale in my area for sometime and was recently sold. The guy had it parked there forever so I don't know whats wrong with it.

As for your tire issue, it sounds like your discribing the hub bolt spinning in place? Correct? If the stud bolts are stuck and spinning in place, your probably going to need to replace your studs which can be a pita but isn't to difficult with an impact.

 

[unfocus]

Ok, because the eclipse I was referring to was for sale in my area for sometime and was recently sold. The guy had it parked there forever so I don't know whats wrong with it.

As for your tire issue, it sounds like your discribing the hub bolt spinning in place? Correct? If the stud bolts are stuck and spinning in place, your probably going to need to replace your studs which can be a pita but isn't to difficult with an impact.

I got the tire off i have another issue, the one man bleeder kit i bought at canadian tire (im using a guide http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...00353-brake-bleeding-one-person-bleeding.html) and the tubing doesnt fit over the bleeder screw, but when i unscrewed the bleeder its not bleeding out of the hole, its bleeding from where the screw is inserted...

so i got another problem, and my bleeder screws are clogged, but when I took them out there isn't a whole on the other side ? is the right? so i got my dad to assist,but it was too quick... i thought you had to open and close thee screw several times, we just did it once.

 

[unfocus]

Probably should have mentioned the abs isn't working at all, its currently snowy as chit here, and i slammed the breaks, and I didn't feel any pulsing, like any other abs would work.

 

[luv2rallye]

I've never had good luck with 1 man bleeding (and I even have a special brake vacuum pump attached to the bleeder valve for it). Nothing beats another person pumping the brakes FORCING the fluid down WHILE you open the bleeder valve at the same time. Use a tight fitting clear hose from end of bleeder valve into jar of partially filled clean brake fluid at all times (always keep end submerged in fluid so it can't suck air back) and keep master reservoir full after each bleed (don't ever let it go dry or you will have to start completely over). Also may want to just get new bleeder screws from auto parts store if they are badly clogged.

I do a 2 step program at each wheel (do sequence RR, LF, LR, RF):
Step 1: Tell helper he is to press pedal down to floor and hold it there but to also tell you when he starts and when it gets to floor. When he starts, open bleeder valve 1/4-1/2 turn (just enough to let fluid out). Fluid and air bubbles will now come out. When he gets to floor (and is holding), close valve. Then have pedal returned to up position. Repeat until you get both clean fluid and no air bubbles. Refill master reservoir.

Step 2 (forces any stuck air bubbles out):
With bleeder closed, have person pump the pedal up/down 5 times very quickly ending with downward pressure and holding. Then open the bleeder briefly to let out air/fluid (pedal goes toward floor) and immediately close it before pedal reaches floor (<1/2 second). Repeat until no air bubbles (shouldn't be many after step 1 unless you have a leak). Refill master reservoir and move to next wheel.

------------------------------------------------------

If your fluid is extremely dirty you may want to flush it first: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/376285-flush-your-brakes-then-bleed.html.

If all the flushing/bleeding doesn't fix it you may want to just delete the ABS (rather than spend $1000-$2000 for a new ABS pump motor install): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/449697-stm-2g-abs-delete-kit-install.html

 

[unfocus]

I've never had good luck with 1 man bleeding (and I even have a special brake vacuum pump attached to the bleeder valve for it). Nothing beats another person pumping the brakes FORCING the fluid down WHILE you open the bleeder valve at the same time. Use a tight fitting hose from end of bleeder valve into jar of clean brake fluid at all times (always keep end submerged in fluid so it can't suck air back) and keep master reservoir full after each bleed. Also may want to just get new bleeder screws from auto parts store.

I do a 2 step program at each wheel (do sequence RR, LF, LR, RF):
Step 1: Tell helper he is to press pedal down to floor and hold it there but to also tell you when he starts and when it gets to floor. When he starts, open bleeder valve 1/4-1/2 turn (just enough to let fluid out). Fluid and air bubbles will now come out. When he gets to floor (and is holding), close valve. Then have pedal returned to up position. Repeat until you get both clean fluid and no air bubbles. Refill master reservoir.

Step 2 (forces any stuck air bubbles out):
With bleeder closed, have person pump the pedal up/down 5 times very quickly ending with downward pressure and holding. Then open the bleeder briefly to let out air/fluid (pedal goes toward floor) and immediately close it before pedal reaches floor (<1/2 second). Repeat until no air bubbles (shouldn't be many after step 1 unless you have a leak). Refill master reservoir and move to next wheel.

------------------------------------------------------

If your fluid is extremely dirty you may want to flush it first: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/376285-flush-your-brakes-then-bleed.html.

If all the flushing/bleeding doesn't fix it you may want to just delete the ABS (rather than spend $1000-$2000 for a new ABS pump motor install): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/449697-stm-2g-abs-delete-kit-install.html

Well i couldn't follow the one man bleeder kit guide on dsmtuners here. So i got my dad to help, but the thing is my dad and I only open and closed the bleeder once, so I'm not entirely sure if we got all the air out, but when I was driving, i touched the brakes and started slowing down instantly compared to before where I had to push it to the floor almost.

So my brakes have been bleeded maybe not correctly but there is a big difference in my braking.

So the Abs light is still on, and like I said the abs isn't working at all, i tried slamming the brakes on snow and just slid instead of the brakes pulsing like they should.

 

[Miasma]

I bleed my breaks in same sequence luv2rallye stated above. By doing this, all the air in the lines is blead out. You might still have a small amount in the lines, but that shouldn't affect your abs. You might just want to consider deleting the abs.

 

[unfocus]

I bleed my breaks in same sequence luv2rallye stated above. By doing this, all the air in the lines is blead out. You might still have a small amount in the lines, but that shouldn't affect your abs. You might just want to consider deleting the abs.

I might just for the inspection but you lived here in calgary, I drive my mother's car in winter and abs has saved my life a few times

 

[Miasma]

Ya I know what you mean the roads can get pretty treacherous! Thankfully I've got a good truck for the winters.

 

[unfocus]

Oh and just got a quick question, my engine makes a loud rattling noise during idle when I start it up only if its cold out or the engine is cold, once the engine is heated it goes away.

When I started it up the engine, i knew the rattling would come on, but when I pressed on the clutch it disappeared, and when i released it came back.

the noise does go away once the engine is fully heated

car also grinds a bit when going into second gear (clutch is fully pressed) when the engine is cold (shifting at 2800rpms), anything higher when the engine is cold it doesn't grind.

oh and it also grinds if I shift it from 1st to 2nd pretty fast when engine is cold.

 

[luv2rallye]

When I started it up the engine, i knew the rattling would come on, but when I pressed on the clutch it disappeared, and when i released it came back.

Clutch throwout bearing is on it's way out.

Oh BTW, I STRONGLY recommend you redo the brake bleeding as per my post 18. Your just 1 pedal press bleed is not enough.

 

[unfocus]

Clutch throwout bearing is on it's way out.

Oh BTW, I STRONGLY recommend you redo the brake bleeding as per my post 18. Your just 1 pedal press bleed is not enough.

How much is the part (and to replace).

Don't worry Ill flush and bleed properly probably on Friday, I'm trying to get new bleeder screws but all the stores here only have 2 for the front.;