Eclipse GS problem with out of province inspection

[unfocus]

So I just bought my first car, a 97 eclipse gs. I took it for an out of province inspection here in alberta it passed in 2012 and in Saskatchewan. The car was sitting for a year when i bought it but its running good other then slow acceleration.

I took it for the oop inspection and I failed due to the abs light being. Their scanners couldn't scan the problem of the abs, so I took it to nappa auto-pro to get it scanned( they have 3 different scanners) which none of them could scan the problem. One of them suggested the sensors could be shot but they couldn't test because they didn't have a lift. So I brought the eclipse to Mitsubishi and they unfortunately couldn't scan the code either. The guy there told me to bring it to Chrysler, and he said it could probably be the wiring.

Now I'm home I checked the fuse its good, took it out the light is still on and put it back and the light went off for 1 second. The fluid is good too.

What do I do?? I need to get this car registered soon.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

How much is the part (and to replace).

Don't worry Ill flush and bleed properly probably on Friday, I'm trying to get new bleeder screws but all the stores here only have 2 for the front.;

all mitsubishi...
Also my transmission went out from what we thought was the TOB (same symptoms) but ended up being bent input shaft. Replace it NOW.

 

[unfocus]

My dad took a look at the sensors, and said that the wiring was heavily covered in electrical tape, could this have to do with the problem at all? (don't worry I will flush and bleed brakes, i will report when it has happened). I have also changed the battery, no change other than that the abs light only comes on when I exceed 12km/hr

Update: (haven't flushed or bleeded yet)

Took my car to Canadian tire my friend works there and works with a guy who will do whatever it takes to find out why.

He went through all of the wiring in the relay motor, or hydraulic modulator, and said it was damaged and it was in a weird spot, like right in front of the tire and said it needed to be replaced.

Took 3 hours in total for them to diagnose it, well they also inspected car.

note when my friend drove the car out of the shop he said the light was off and i didn't believe him. So when I turned on the car and exceeded 12km/hr, the light was literally off, never came on at all, it lighted up when it started but was never on when i drove.

Weird part is, i turned the car off, then turned it back and drove but it came back on? like what the phuck.

 

[luv2rallye]

ABS light operation attached (from Mitsubishi 2g Tech Information Manual).

 

[unfocus]

Well resetting doesn't fix it because like the information said it detects issue once wheel speed is reached. So basically I have to.change the motor ? Still curious on why the light wasn't on at all for a 20 minute drive from the shop to my house. So could it just possibly be the wiring ? Also remember reading somewhere that since the pump motor is right infront of the wheel, that they never weather proofed the wiring which causes water intrusion resulting in errors.



Oh, there was other problems found too. The Brake friction for the ebrake, brake shoes are about to go... well the right wheel has gone, just the left wheel is left.

The Left front rack and pinion boot is torn wide open. Tires are bald, clutch throwout bearing. Cylinder 4 malfunction.

 

[unfocus]

I grabbed a pump motor from a 95 Chrysler sebring, same exact pump motor. Problem is my dad and I are stuck. We can't rage the screws off, the tubes that connect to the pump motor from the wheels, they're way too tight.

 

[luv2rallye]

We can't rage the screws off, the tubes that connect to the pump motor from the wheels, they're way too tight.

Do you mean the brake line nuts? Spray threads with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, tap around all sides of the nut lightly with hammer, repeat, leave sit overnight, spray and tap again, use flare nut wrench to loosen. If still too tight you may have to use vise grips but be aware it usually destroys the nut (nut is really soft metal).

 

[unfocus]

Do you mean the brake line nuts? Spray threads with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, tap around all sides of the nut lightly with hammer, repeat, leave sit overnight, spray and tap again, use flare nut wrench to loosen. If still too tight you may have to use vise grips but be aware it usually destroys the nut (nut is really soft metal).

The 2 brake lines that connect to the motor and the master cylinder are off, there's 4 other lines that connect to the motor that are way to tight to unscrew, and beside each line it says

RF,LR,RR,LF

something like that, those 4 lines can't come out. I'll tell my dad tonight as I'm heading to work soon.

 

[unfocus]

Do you mean the brake line nuts? Spray threads with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, tap around all sides of the nut lightly with hammer, repeat, leave sit overnight, spray and tap again, use flare nut wrench to loosen. If still too tight you may have to use vise grips but be aware it usually destroys the nut (nut is really soft metal).

Bump I also have another issue, I'm kind of worried now actually.

We replaced the pump motor and everything, but we definitely rounded and stripped the third screw or the left front wheel screw, and I started the car up, pressed the brakes repeatedly, and notice that it was just staying spongy. (I did top up the fluid) I notice the car was dripping brake fluid, so I had a friend come press the brakes, and the fluid is being squirted out of the left wheel front screw , it's not leaking from the threads, it's squirting from the top of the screw where the tube goes into it.... What's wrong? (We couldn't fully tighten that screw in all the way, like its in there, maybe 2 or 3 more turns and it would have beeen leveled with all the other screws, but the vise grip just kept stripping it).

Need some help asap please.

 

[luv2rallye]

Well you can try removing the brake nut and re-flaring the tube end that the brake nut presses against. Auto stores or Home Depot sells a re-flaring tool. If that doesn't work you'll have to replace that brake line. Either buy one pre-made or buy tubing and 2 brake nuts and bend tubing to match the old one. You'll need to buy/rent a tubing bending tool so you don't kink/break the tube. Or perhaps you can find a machine shop that would make one for you to match the old one.

 

[unfocus]

Well you can try removing the brake nut and re-flaring the tube end that the brake nut presses against. Auto stores or Home Depot sells a re-flaring tool. If that doesn't work you'll have to replace that brake line. Either buy one pre-made or buy tubing and 2 brake nuts and bend tubing to match the old one. You'll need to buy/rent a tubing bending tool so you don't kink/break the tube. Or perhaps you can find a machine shop that would make one for you to match the old one.

If I'm correct, I am to remove the tube from the car, and cut the end off and flare it right? Just to clarify.

 

[luv2rallye]

If I'm correct, I am to remove the tube from the car, and cut the end off and flare it right? Just to clarify.

Yes if you want to try re-using the same tube. Just make sure it will be long enough to reach after cutting off and remember to have the brake nuts on before flaring (and buy new one that you rounded). This all assumes that the threads on the brake nut (although you should buy new one) and in the pump are ok (you said you "rounded and stripped the third screw" but I think you mean you rounded the head of the nut but the threads are still ok correct?).

Of course it would be easier to just buy a new pre-formed brake line from a dealer but perhaps you don't have that option. Second best would be to have a machine shop bend and flare a new one for you so you don't have to buy any flaring and bending tools. Last option would be to do it yourself (as above). Some auto stores have flared end straight brake lines with nuts already on them so all you have to do is bend them correctly. Just make sure the nut size and thread pitch is correct (bring in the old one). Call around and find an auto store with them.

 

[unfocus]

Yes if you want to try re-using the same tube. Just make sure it will be long enough to reach after cutting off and remember to have the brake nuts on before flaring (and buy new one that you rounded). This all assumes that the threads on the brake nut (although you should buy new one) and in the pump are ok (you said you "rounded and stripped the third screw" but I think you mean you rounded the head of the nut but the threads are still ok correct?).

Of course it would be easier to just buy a new pre-formed brake line from a dealer but perhaps you don't have that option. Second best would be to have a machine shop bend and flare a new one for you so you don't have to buy any flaring and bending tools. Last option would be to do it yourself (as above). Some auto stores have flared end straight brake lines with nuts already on them so all you have to do is bend them correctly. Just make sure the nut size and thread pitch is correct (bring in the old one). Call around and find an auto store with them.

There is the slight possibility the threads might be stripped, the screw refused to go in straight but me straight as we can and it went in just not lock tight like the others.

UPDATE yeah so my dad had an extra brake screw from the pump motor we got from pick & pull and he put it in the threads to see if something was wrong, and he said we damaged the threads.... is there any way to fix that? because wouldn't that necessarily mean it can never be screwed in properly, which probably explains why we would couldn't screw it lock tight.

Double Update: So My dad used the extra brake screw to fix the threads I think he was saying wasn't sure, but now the screw from the brake line is in all the way and its not squirting or anything, I'm assuming I have to bleed the brakes now before I can even drive because it still feels like I have no brakes. Also is there a place I can buy a mud flap? I think that's what they're called they're the plastic thing that covers the abs pump motor and above the tire, well all around the tire

FINAL UPDATE:

Well thank you everyone especially luv2rallye for your help I got the car abs light to go off, and now I can finally get it registered at that ghetto shop pass it, and then keep or sell it (Might get this nice 91 gto rhd in my area). I am afraid it might come on though from heavy driving because there is nothing protecting or covering the motor, like the Fender Lining? or the inside plastic thing that protects the inside.. if anyone could tell me if i could buy that part it'd be nice, or would I have to go to a junkyard and grab a piece.