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eBay turbo rebuild kit?

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I would say negative for two reasons. You dont have a way to rebalance the shafts once you reinstall the new seals etc. and the kit runs $66.50 Ive found several places here in Oklahoma that rebuild smaller turbos for around 150 and have the ability to balance when done. I would strongly recommend saving your money before you do this. Im sure others would agree. :)
 
Yes you should be able to. As long as the compressor blades and turbine blades aren't damage you should be fine without a balance. Since a lot/most Mitsubishi turbo's are component balanced. But why not just upgrade to a 16g or something? And if you have any turbo rebuild questions there is a member named jusmx141 who could probably answer all your questions, since he is very knowledgeable with rebuilding turbos.

When I rebuilt my pte 50 2 years ago I didn't have it balanced. Running 20-25psi and it still runs great with hardly any shaft play.
 
Yes you should be able to. As long as the compressor blades and turbine blades aren't damage you should be fine without a balance. Since a lot/most Mitsubishi turbo's are component balanced.

When I rebuilt my pte 50 2 years ago I didn't have it balanced. Running 20-25psi and it still runs great with hardly any shaft play.

Good point. Myself I wouldnt risk having to replace the turbo due to a cheap 'ebay" rebuild kit.
 
Good point. Myself I wouldnt risk having to replace the turbo due to a cheap 'ebay" rebuild kit.

Yes I agree, and I dont have any experience with ebay turbo rebuild parts, so I cant say how reliable they are. I usually get my rebuilt kits from Home

They are friendly and answer all your questions.
 
Hey ya some deviated a little, neways i blew my 14b and this is a new s16g for me actually, an i am not going to balance it (trust me i no a guy at a turbo shop and we have talked about it) the seal is just a little worn and leaking oil. But i was just curious if THE EBAY rebuild kit would be ok....that is all i was asking, but ill just pick on up from gpop in a month of so when money isnt so tight.
 
Here's an idea... Get the rebuild kit to convert your s16g to a b16g(the super back). All the same bearings but the backing plate to the compressor wheel is shaped different on a B16g compared to a 14b or S16g. Pick up a 20G compressor cover, a Garret 60-1 compressor wheel, (or just the 20g wheel, garret flows more), a td05H turbine wheel, clipped at 15*. This all equals something close to a FPred(flows 850cfm IIRC, and put guys into the ten's) All for roughly $500. This is what I'm planning on doing to my B16g, just thought I'd throw another suggestion out there.
 
So has anyone bought a ebay turbo rebuild kit? I came across this one, and i figured i would rebuild my turbo come a month or so and was curious if anyone else has.
Kamak seems to sell good products. I've used their parts to repair turbochargers in the past and they've worked absolutely perfect. The kit in your link actually has the larger thrust collar and compressor collar, offering more surface for support to be given from the thrust plate. The thrust plate also has two oiling holes instead of standard MHI thrust plate's one.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy and use this kit.

Here's an idea... Get the rebuild kit to convert your s16g to a b16g(the super back). All the same bearings but the backing plate to the compressor wheel is shaped different on a B16g compared to a 14b or S16g.
Ummm.....the Small 16G has a super-back wheel. Only the 14B compressor is flat-backed.

Pick up a 20G compressor cover, a Garret 60-1 compressor wheel, (or just the 20g wheel, garret flows more), a td05H turbine wheel, clipped at 15*. This all equals something close to a FPred(flows 850cfm IIRC, and put guys into the ten's) All for roughly $500.
A FP Red isn't mated to a TD05H turbine, for one. You could clip a TD05H until there was nothing left and it still wouldn't match the flow of the 15*-clipped TD06H turbine used on the Red. Once you run enough boost to make the 60-1 compressor worthwhile, the TD05H would be out of flow. Building an efficient turbo isn't as easy as slapping huge compressors on small turbines.

Next would be the fact that you're telling the O.P. to go from a 38 lb/min compressor to a 60 lb/min compressor. That would require a ridiculous amount of money spent on additional supporting mods.

In order to use a Garrett 60-1 compressor on a MHI center housing you have mill the back of the compressor wheel flat as the contour on the back of the Garrett wheel is different than a MHI 16G/20G wheel. Once the wheel's backplate is flattened out and the center hole is bored slightly to fit a MHI turbine, you'll need to mill the center housing to match the O.D. of the 60-1 wheel, and install a 14B compressor seal collar and oil shield (for flat-backed compressors). I have a Frank Level 1, Frank Level 3, and FP Red turbos all at my shop right now....they all use Garrett compressors, and all the wheels are machined to be flat-backed.
 
Kamak seems to sell good products.# I've used their parts to repair turbochargers in the past and they've worked absolutely perfect.# The kit in your link actually has the larger thrust collar and compressor collar, offering more surface for support to be given from the thrust plate.# The thrust plate also has two oiling holes instead of standard MHI thrust plate's one.I wouldn't hesitate to buy and use this kit.Ummm.....the Small 16G has a super-back wheel.# Only the 14B compressor is flat-backed.A FP Red isn't mated to a TD05H turbine, for one.## You could clip a TD05H until there was nothing left and it still wouldn't match the flow of the 15*-clipped TD06H turbine used on the Red.# Once you run enough boost to make the 60-1 compressor worthwhile, the TD05H would be out of flow.# Building an efficient turbo isn't as easy as slapping huge compressors on small turbines.Next would be the fact that you're telling the O.P. to go from a 38 lb/min compressor to a 60 lb/min compressor.# That would require a ridiculous amount of money spent on additional supporting mods.In order to use a Garrett 60-1 compressor on a MHI center housing you have mill the back of the compressor wheel flat as the contour on the back of the Garrett wheel is different than a MHI 16G/20G wheel.# Once the wheel's backplate is flattened out and the center hole is bored slightly to fit a MHI turbine, you'll need to mill the center housing to match the O.D. of the 60-1 wheel, and install a 14B compressor seal collar and oil shield (for flat-backed compressors).# I have a Frank Level 1, Frank Level 3, and FP Red turbos all at my shop right now....they all use Garrett compressors, and all the wheels are machined to be flat-backed.
My mistake, I was looking at rebuild kits once before and thought it said the 14b and S16g had flat backs, must have read or remembered wrong. Again, remembered wrong about the td05/tdo6 on the FP red, my mistake. What's wrong with upgrading? Gotta do it some time, I was just giving him another option he might want to consider in the future at what I thought would be a really decent price. Since I obviously didn't know it took that much work to build a Frank/Red turbo, what about putting on a 20g compressor wheel and cover on his s16g which he says in his public profile has a 'larger turbine compressor wheel'? I read a thread you posted in about a clipped td05h turbine wheel vs. a td06/td06hThe part in bold has me confused a bit, did you mean the MHI turbine shaft is larger than the hole on the garrett comp. wheel? Another quick question while I have you here haha, what are the differences in the turbine wheels on the 14b, s16, and b16g? ##
This is all irrelevant to the O.P. though because he is just looking to replace the seals for now and money is tight for him, like alot of us. If he has money in the future he could put a 20g comp. side on with a clipped turbine wheel, if that works.

P.S. your turbo rebuild threads kick a**!!
 
Hey jusmx, thanks thats what i was looking for from a response, and coming from you ill believe it. Ill most likely pick one of these up then. Any tips for a first timer? I have a printed out copy of a HOW TO rebuild a turbo i got from on here, and i plan on having my friend over see me (so i dont mess anything up) but mainly so i can learn on my own. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I would say negative for two reasons. You dont have a way to rebalance the shafts once you reinstall the new seals etc. and the kit runs $66.50 Ive found several places here in Oklahoma that rebuild smaller turbos for around 150 and have the ability to balance when done. I would strongly recommend saving your money before you do this. Im sure others would agree. :)

You don't have to rebalance it aslong as your blades are fine, and you mark/scribe the wheel, nut, shaft, and anything else that requires to be lined up.

Also. There are SOME of the ebay rebuild kits that you can trust. One of the sellers is Kamak, they sell genuine 16g comperssor wheels, and theres also kando_dynamic which also sells genuine compressor wheels/turbine sides/etc. Infact, if you look at some of their rebuild kits it shows all of them in mitsu packages.
 
My compressor wheel is a little dingy, the turbo was rebuilt already and balanced but they didnt have a new wheel, so thats why it looks like it, so granted there is a couple little ding marks on it im going to just rebuild it and not balance it...if it goes it goes, if not well heck yes.
 
I have new Small 16G compressor wheels that are already component-balanced and ready for installation.

If your existing compressor locknut has grinding on it, then your turbo has been assembly-balanced. You should pay attention to the clock position of the grind marks on the existing compressor wheel in relation to the replacement wheel if you swap wheels; you don't want this alignment to be 180* out or it may cause excessive vibration....but I don't think it could be more than what a chipped wheel would cause.

Honestly if there is just a little abrasion on the wheel, I'd run it. Scribe the shaft and the wheel if the nut has balance grinds and you'll have nothing to worry about.

Follow my guide(s) on this site and the whole job should go without a hitch. Just be careful not to force anything. If it doesn't seem like the seal is dropping into the groove, then it probably isn't and you'll bent the shit out of it if you proceed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303828-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-1-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303829-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-2-a.html
 
Ha i actually have your guides save as a bookmark already haha, thanks though its a good write up and i read yours and its just like the other one, except you have more helpful photos. But the car is in the shop and the tranny is having some work done. Like i said ill probably wait till end of summer but i will rebuild it. THANKS JUSMX141, you got a lot of good information and help!

But as far as the wheel, its not much at all a couple little dings on the fins, not chuncks or anything close to bad damage.

Oh and im practicing on pulling apart the turbo and "rebuilding" it with my blown 14b...once i can do that several times and feel confident then ill do it to the 16g or worst case i have 3 friends that can ha.
 
I ran across this kit, looks very complete! I've not used it personally so cannot speak of the quality, but his feedback looks good as well as the price
Mitsubishi TD05 TD06 Major Turbocharger Rebuild Kit
Has anyone ever bought anything from eCrater?

I just ordered the kit today from Greg on eCrater. It'll be the fastest shipping for me since I need mine done asap. When I talked with him he said that they are aftermarket parts but of excellent quality. I was a little hesistant at first since they aren't Mitsu. but as toofast said, his feedback is very good and they were all for rebuild kits. Not to mention I saved a good bit of money.

Both Brian (Snowboarder714) and Eric (Turboxas) were in my car when I thought my turbo was going out. I would boost and when letting off the gas, you could hear the BOV and then a second slightly delayed high pitched whistle. Thought it was just my new FMIC. Picked my turbo up from the garage where my car is and inspected it. It did have radial shaft play, no axial. Tore it apart earlier and discovered old bearing material from my engine clogging the oil hole in the thrust plate. I was also low on oil at the time too I'm assuming as the retard that orginally rebuilt my engine didn't put in the valve cover gasket properly and put a hole in my valve cover as well as an oil leaking exhust stud...

Once I get the kit in from the eCrater seller, I'll post how it all looks. To Justmx, in your rebuild articles, you said to use assembly lube or heavy oil. Would heavy oil constitute as Red Line shock proof gear oil? If not, what oil did you use and/or where to purchace assembly lube.

Thanks
 
Once I get the kit in from the eCrater seller, I'll post how it all looks. To Justmx, in your rebuild articles, you said to use assembly lube or heavy oil. Would heavy oil constitute as Red Line shock proof gear oil? If not, what oil did you use and/or where to purchace assembly lube.

Thanks
I've bought kits in the past from Greg as well. Great products for the money....excellent for low-budget builds like 14B's and other turbos that aren't worth putting a $150 parts kit into. You can email Greg direct at [email protected] anytime you need additonal parts....he's quick to respond and you won't find a more complete kit for the money.

Any oil that provides extended lubrication until the turbo sees oil flow at initial startup would be fine. I wouldn't use gear oil. If your local parts store does not sell engine assembly lube, use Lucas Oil Stabilizer at 100% strength (do not dilute with motor oil).
 
I was suprised at how fast Greg was with his responses as well. Also good to know that you have used them too. Thanks for the info and I guess you already answered what I was going to post about the product :thumb:. Over all with just the tear down, I was suprised at how simple it was. Took me maybe 10 min if that to dissasemble the turbo and take pictures. The only snag was the damned compressor wheel nut. Once it broke free I just about lost my my knuckles on the wheel. I'll go hunt down some lube.


Any oil that provides extended lubrication until the turbo sees oil flow at initial startup would be fine.
If it's all just about waiting for engine oil to reach it, couldn't you just use regular oil then? When you remove the turbo and put it back on, you are supposed to prime it which runs oil through out the system. Wouldn't that be sufficient then since you only turning the motor over and not running it?
 
I have new Small 16G compressor wheels that are already component-balanced and ready for installation.

If your existing compressor locknut has grinding on it, then your turbo has been assembly-balanced. You should pay attention to the clock position of the grind marks on the existing compressor wheel in relation to the replacement wheel if you swap wheels; you don't want this alignment to be 180* out or it may cause excessive vibration....but I don't think it could be more than what a chipped wheel would cause.

Honestly if there is just a little abrasion on the wheel, I'd run it. Scribe the shaft and the wheel if the nut has balance grinds and you'll have nothing to worry about.

Follow my guide(s) on this site and the whole job should go without a hitch. Just be careful not to force anything. If it doesn't seem like the seal is dropping into the groove, then it probably isn't and you'll bent the shit out of it if you proceed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303828-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-1-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...303829-td05h-td06-turbo-rebuild-part-2-a.html

Do you have any big/evo3 compressor wheels already balanced?
 
If it's all just about waiting for engine oil to reach it, couldn't you just use regular oil then? When you remove the turbo and put it back on, you are supposed to prime it which runs oil through out the system. Wouldn't that be sufficient then since you only turning the motor over and not running it?
If regular oil was enough, there wouldn't be the need for engine assembly lubes in the first place. Even freshly-assembled engines are normally primed prior to startup, but the assembly lube is that extra little bit of insurance that the bearings will have protection at initial startup.

Do you have any big/evo3 compressor wheels already balanced?
None on stock. Any turbo parts supplier should be able to help you out- Turbochargers.com has a great online catalog of turbo parts.
 
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