Eagle Crank or OEM with oversized bearings.

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

So I touched base with my situation with my last thread but I think this will yield quicker and better results. I currently have a talon that I have to get running which is my need right now. My want is to build it to 4-500AWHP. So I am going to start building the bottom end for it. So my question is should I get the eagle crank, or can I save the money for other investments and use my OEM crank that has been ground once before and use oversized bearings? I know my crank would be good still for normal use, but unsure how well it would handle the extra gobs of power. Opinions and thoughts are greatly appreciated. I will then form my own and decide afterwards

Thanks Seth

Hello, my last thread was quickly answered TY gofer. I was debating between the CC lightweight flywheel and the Fidanza flywheel. I really like the Fidanza as most do, but I've read concerns of with it being a two piece it tends to break easier. Which is a slight concern of mine. But the bigger concern of mine is I have read that with the aluminum flywheel when you torque it down the bolts will dig into the aluminum if you dont get the FP aluminum flywheel shim kit. Is this true, as I cant recall anyone actually using the shim kit. How much damage does it do. Also the jury is still out if I am going to mate it with a SPEC STG 1, or a SBC STG 1. So if you would like to chime in on that matter feel free.

Thanks Seth

 

[gofer]

OEM, save your money for your goals and even then I'd say OEM.

Take your crank to a reputable machine shop and let them tell you what condition it's in and if it's usable or not. If it isn't usable you can find an OEM 6-bolt crank for $100-$150 used in the classifieds...

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

OEM, save your money for your goals and even then I'd say OEM.

Take your crank to a reputable machine shop and let them tell you what condition it's in and if it's usable or not. If it isn't usable you can find an OEM 6-bolt crank for $100-$150 used in the classifieds...

Awesome, thank you. I have taken it to a machine shop already. Same one that has done the work on my brothers talon, and has always done my dads(ASE master mechanic) work. Plus he has already done some other work on my head for me. I was just unsure about my crank. Thanks again.

 

[gofer]

What did they say when you took it in? Does it need cut or polished and if it needs cut, by how much?

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

What did they say when you took it in? Does it need cut or polished and if it needs cut, by how much?

I really don't remember all what He (Buttons) informed me I took it in last year to have checked but some family things came up so I wasn't able to get the car going. But from What I honestly remember he told me was that i can still use it and that it would need oversized bearings. I believe it was size .010. I will be taking it in to him in the very near future when I receive my pistons and rods to be all completely balanced.

 

[gofer]

MERGED your posts. Please don't make a new thread for everyone question you have... Post all your questions regarding your car and discuss them in one thread. Thanks.

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

Will do sorry about that and thanks for the help appreciate it.

 

[SasaniFab]

Will do sorry about that and thanks for the help appreciate it.

Take it from me, I just finished building my first shortblock successfully I might add. I purchased 3 cranks , 2 ended up being junk basically. Be extremely careful when buying a crank from someone. If possible see it for yourself and measure the journals. Looking back I kinda wish I just purchased a Ffwd eagle crank. I guess what I'm saying is if possible spend little more for something you know is good. Otherwise do your homework and make sure you know what your buying

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

Take it from me, I just finished building my first shortblock successfully I might add. I purchased 3 cranks , 2 ended up being junk basically. Be extremely careful when buying a crank from someone. If possible see it for yourself and measure the journals. Looking back I kinda wish I just purchased a Ffwd eagle crank. I guess what I'm saying is if possible spend little more for something you know is good. Otherwise do your homework and make sure you know what your buying

Congrats on the successful shortblock build. Sorry about so many purchases for a crank. But thank you, that is what I was thinking. That's why I was trying to determine if I should just get an eagle crank now or use my OEM with oversized bearings. But I have always worried about purchasing parts from people I don't know. It makes it more difficult when from what I see the DSM crowd here in St. Louis isn't very big.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

Only time I'd go with an Eagle crank is building a stroker. And even then, they need balancing, so might as well butcher it while you're at it.

 

[bastarddsm]

Why does eveyone insist on butchering a crank, you need the mass to abosrb the power pulses. Have a stock crank ground and renitrided.

 

[SasaniFab]

Why does eveyone insist on butchering a crank, you need the mass to abosrb the power pulses. Have a stock crank ground and renitrided.

I would Always go for a oem crank as the 6 bolt is limited to eagle and Magnus. The eagle You can't run out of the box and the Magnus is almost 1400 dollars. I live in ct, I can't even find a guy willing to line hone a 4g63 without hassle let alone touch a crank. I heard Callie's is coming out with a billet 6 bolt unit.....all the cranks looked good 2/3 junk. I crank journals was not even repairable.

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

Only time I'd go with an Eagle crank is building a stroker. And even then, they need balancing, so might as well butcher it while you're at it.

I understand and I would love to build a stroker at a later date, but now is not the time for me . I've heard alot of mixed responses on butchering.

Why does eveyone insist on butchering a crank, you need the mass to abosrb the power pulses. Have a stock crank ground and renitrided.

As I said in the post above I've heard mixed responses on butchering. But I think when the time is right to build a stroker, maybe technology will improve to the point of butchering won't be needed for weight savings. But I believe I will be undecided on this matter until it comes time. Everything has it's pros and cons but at this juncture if I had to choose I wouldn't butcher and sacrificing the quicker rev for more reliability.

I would Always go for a oem crank as the 6 bolt is limited to eagle and Magnus. The eagle You can't run out of the box and the Magnus is almost 1400 dollars. I live in ct, I can't even find a guy willing to line hone a 4g63 without hassle let alone touch a crank. I heard Callie's is coming out with a billet 6 bolt unit.....all the cranks looked good 2/3 junk. I crank journals was not even repairable.

I always prefer OEM as well just was unsure if it would still be capable of holding the power after being ground once before, although magnus would be nice if I could afford it . Sorry it's so hard to find a machinist to do any of that work for you, I'm fortunate enough my machinist is only ten minutes away but unfortunately the closest AWD dyno to me is 1+ hr away so come tuning time that's gonna be fun.

 

[SasaniFab]

Hey a hour isn't too bad.... have a good machinist and close by Lucky guy

I understand and I would love to build a stroker at a later date, but now is not the time for me . I've heard alot of mixed responses on butchering.

As I said in the post above I've heard mixed responses on butchering. But I think when the time is right to build a stroker, maybe technology will improve to the point of butchering won't be needed for weight savings. But I believe I will be undecided on this matter until it comes time. Everything has it's pros and cons but at this juncture if I had to choose I wouldn't butcher and sacrificing the quicker rev for more reliability.

I always prefer OEM as well just was unsure if it would still be capable of holding the power after being ground once before, although magnus would be nice if I could afford it . Sorry it's so hard to find a machinist to do any of that work for you, I'm fortunate enough my machinist is only ten minutes away but unfortunately the closest AWD dyno to me is 1+ hr away so come tuning time that's gonna be fun.

ey

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

Hey a hour isn't too bad.... have a good machinist and close by Lucky guy

ey

Yea your right it really isnt bad. But I figured there would be one closer to the area I live in being that the Drag strip is closer to me then the tuning shop and they are in two totally different directions. Yea I got lucky with the machinist. Kind of fell into my lap. Would you guys consider it a good price, to be totally hot tanked and cleaned, bored, honed, decked. The pistons put on the rods, and rings gaped properly, for $365.00? I forgot to ask him to balance everything so it will probably go up a little bit.

 

[SasaniFab]

Yea your right it really isnt bad. But I figured there would be one closer to the area I live in being that the Drag strip is closer to me then the tuning shop and they are in two totally different directions. Yea I got lucky with the machinist. Kind of fell into my lap. Would you guys consider it a good price, to be totally hot tanked and cleaned, bored, honed, decked. The pistons put on the rods, and rings gaped properly, for $365.00? I forgot to ask him to balance everything so it will probably go up a little bit.

That's dirt cheap, seems to good to be true. To put it into perspective I paid 250 for machine work and the guy wanted 1000 for assembly. The guy has one of the fastest evos in the country but that crazy. Another quote I got was 550 for just assembly. I ended up spending 250 for decking , hot tank and honed to my spec. I said f*** it and did it myself. It's so easy it's not funny. The hardest part it making sure your tolerances are in check.If you plan on doing this in the future, buy the tools and do it yourself. People make a big deal out of nothing.....no greater feeling than building your own engine.

 

[90'AWDTalonFroggy]

That's dirt cheap, seems to good to be true. To put it into perspective I paid 250 for machine work and the guy wanted 1000 for assembly. The guy has one of the fastest evos in the country but that crazy. Another quote I got was 550 for just assembly. I ended up spending 250 for decking , hot tank and honed to my spec. I said f*** it and did it myself. It's so easy it's not funny. The hardest part it making sure your tolerances are in check.If you plan on doing this in the future, buy the tools and do it yourself. People make a big deal out of nothing.....no greater feeling than building your own engine.

Yea I know what your saying, but when I first started going to him 3 years ago. Because my dad was with me and he has brought him so much work over the years(Lifetime mechanic) he informed me he would just give me shop price like my dad instead of walk-in stranger price other wise it would be about double. I have asked my guy before if he would assemble the motor, but he said he wouldn't cuz he is to busy now days. I totally agree with building it yourself which I will be doing myself. I already have the tools, and I am a mechanic as well(like father like son) but haven't outright built a motor yet. Thanks for the words of encouragement, and that is what I want myself is to be able to say is I did it myself and it wasn't done by somebody else.