1G E85 Oil

[YungTlon]

Hi all, I’ve been reading the other articles about what oil people prefer to run with e85 and I am looking at switching over to the well recommended Valvoline vr1 20w50, but my only question is I also saw a fellow dsm’er from Colorado say that he had to switch to 10w40 because of the cold temps. My car stays in the garage but it still get a little cold in there maybe like 40 degrees. My car does not leave the garage unless it’s warmed up and the water temps are at 170-190ish . I would like to make the switch to vr1 but just wanted to know what the risks are of running it since it’s a little colder in Colorado and if I should just wait. I’m currently on royal purple 5w30 just made the e85 switch about a week ago. Any advice or help would be great! Thanks!

 

[Bleakley]

Highest I’d go is 10w-40. If stock long block why not just go with 10w-30 full synthetic, brand of choice?
Not sure what the need would be for 20w-50?
I don’t think you need to jump weight because of e85 sir.
At most all you would need is shorter intervals between changes. That’s it.

 

[RWD4G63]

Gonna copy the PM I sent him here for information's sake:


Any high quality synthetic oil is going to be fine with E85. VR1 isn't anything special, and I would advise you to look into something better if you're looking for maximum protection. Redline, Amsoil, Motul, Ravenol, HPL, and a few other companies make awesome 5w40 oil that's probably a better spec for your setup and weather.

If you are using the factory PCV system and have a catalytic converter, you will kill it running E85. You either need to run an atmosphere vented catch can or ditch the cat.

 

[biglady112]

We run rotella 15w40 year round without issue. We are in Denver. Been using E85 since 2004

 

[Brandonjffrs96]

ive seen a lot of people running 20w50 but im running vr1 0w20 but im also located in michigan where it gets cold. to each their own tho

 

[RWD4G63]

ive seen a lot of people running 20w50 but im running vr1 0w20 but im also located in michigan where it gets cold. to each their own tho

Going for all the MPG?

 

[OH91awd]

ive been running penn grade (brad penn) 10w40 in my car for years on e85 only with great success.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

15W40 Rotella here in Kansas with ZZDP additive for thrust surface protection. I agree that you will need to change oil more frequent when running E85 but that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[curt-s]

15W40 Rotella here in Kansas with ZZDP additive for thrust surface protection. I agree that you will need to change oil more frequent when running E85 but that shouldn't be a problem.

Curious, what additive do you use? I have heard from both sides of the camp on running one and whether it actually blends properly with the oil. But I have been mulling it over since I have a few kms on this mostly stock short block.

 

[Bleakley]

15W40 Rotella here in Kansas with ZZDP additive for thrust surface protection. I agree that you will need to change oil more frequent when running E85 but that shouldn't be a problem.

I really like 15w-40, but I can never find it. I wish more brands made it / more places carried it.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I use Rislone and have been for quite a few years. After the oil companies started lowering their anti-wear additives, I had to in order to keep my flat tappet cams in my Small Block Chevys from wearing out the cam lobes. I carried it over into this platform for the turbo thrust surface and for general engine wear components. I usually only use it on the first 3 or 4 oil changes on the Small Blocks but have continued its use in my 4g turbo cars. Walmart is about half the price of my local parts store.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rislone-...MIkra7mZPA5wIVD9vACh2GuAlMEAQYCCABEgJ_xfD_BwE

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I really like 15w-40, but I can never find it. I wish more brands made it / more places carried it.

I find it in stock at my local Orshelyns Farm Supply (and diesel truck) store or at my local WM.
15W40 is more of a diesel oil so you should be able to find it if you look at stores that have supplies for them.

 

[RWD4G63]

It's crazy to me that people spend thousands in high-performance parts but not on high performance oil to go with. Ya'll run dino juice because it's cheap or what?

 

[Bleakley]

Hahahahaha! I run Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own.
Didn’t hop on the Royal Purple bandwagon.
No one in Pittsburgh local to me that I know of carries Redline, I use their trans fluid in ever manual I own or have owned.
Have always heard good things about amsoil.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run "dino squeezin's" thru the first 5000 miles. Rings seat instantly. Then I decide if I want to run synthetics. I have built so many motors and only see a minor difference in the oils, but you must break in on old oil to get things to seal up. Since I have been around since oil was sold in a cardboard "can" that you needed a can opener to open them up, I stick with it. My dad sold Amsoil for quite a few years and I knew the product but never ever used it in any of my cars. Dad was a good salesman but didn't know diddly about cars. RIP dad. Hope you're smiling.

 

[motomattx]

Oh here we go with an oil suggestion thread..., there are plenty of oil threads on the internet, there is probably NO subject as discussed or subjective than motor oil choices, that being said if you want to use the VR1 for the benefits of the zddp, you can find it in other viscosities other than 20w-50, they have it in thinner versions, in the summer or at temperatures above 70FI would use the 20w-50 though, Mitsubishi recommends higher viscosity oil above 70F in the owners manual, trust them.

 

[curt-s]

It's crazy to me that people spend thousands in high-performance parts but not on high performance oil to go with. Ya'll run dino juice because it's cheap or what?

Still waiting on non-anecdotal evidence that $60/gal oil would have protected an engine better than Rotella. It is a hot subjective topic with millions poured into marketing. So far, after something like 25k km and 6 years, Rotella has done my engine good with yearly changes (sometimes twice). I started on it by pure suggestion from others that have also run it for a long time. My breakin was Castrol GTX, 5 changes before 1000km

Plenty of engines out there that spun rod bearings or ate thrust bearings, both main and turbo, while being run with high performance oil. Doesnt mean its crap, also doesnt mean it guarantees avoidance of problems.

"Why take the risk" is the sum outcome of marketing, thats my position.

 

[RWD4G63]

Still waiting on non-anecdotal evidence that $60/gal oil would have protected an engine better than Rotella. It is a hot subjective topic with millions poured into marketing. So far, after something like 25k km and 6 years, Rotella has done my engine good with yearly changes (sometimes twice). I started on it by pure suggestion from others that have also run it for a long time. My breakin was Castrol GTX, 5 changes before 1000km

Plenty of engines out there that spun rod bearings or ate thrust bearings, both main and turbo, while being run with high performance oil. Doesnt mean its crap, also doesnt mean it guarantees avoidance of problems.

"Why take the risk" is the sum outcome of marketing, thats my position.

Synthetic oil has superior low temperature flow, the ability to withstand higher temperatures, and much greater resistance to sheering and acid breakdown. These are not subjective. Just because you’ve ran a certain type of oil in.a 300hp car and it hasn’t destroyed itself does not mean it’s doing the best job protecting it either.
I understand now everyone rags on their car super hard, but even if you’re not after better performance, longer OCI’s seem like a great advantage to me. Just my two cents.