dynoed my car today..

[swordfish]

Umm. About the clutch. I wouldnt suggest the ACT 2600 for your application. You dont need anthing with that much clamping force. I would say either a 2100 or use your stock pressure plate with an ACT disk. Aniel ran his stock pressure plate and an disk until just over 400whp before he got slippage. RRE's site lists clamping and release pressures for Stock, ACT 2100 , 2600, Clutchmasters and stock replacement (Autozone and stuff) pressure plates. You might want to take a look at that.

The debate about cams, TB, valve train, intake manifold, head, blah blah blah. You will get 100 different opinions from 100 different people on this. Do what you can afford and take baby steps. Its better to tune in small increments that it is to through money (parts) at the car and then wonder where to start come time to tune. Just my opinion though.

jeff

 

[larryd]

GSTspeedracer.. yes my settings are -25% across the band on high throttle setting wether i be on low boost at 15psi or high boost at 20psi..

why cant anyone agree on anything, this is driving me nuts.. everyone I talk to has a different opinion and the sad part is I have no opinions of my own.. I believe in doing things right but some of you guys are talking about going way overboard here, building like race spec engines when all i wanna do is change a few parts

 

[GSTspeedracer]

why cant anyone agree on anything, this is driving me nuts.. everyone I talk to has a different opinion

NEVER gonna happen, if they could you would have just solved world peace problem!

yes my settings are -25% across the band on high throttle setting wether i be on low boost at 15psi or high boost at 20psi..

I would start or actually FINISH what you have got there first! Get that power up where it should be first. Boost leak checks and the clutch. Then tune for 20psi with your Safc on pump gas! I think you've got a nice setup and should be at the 300+ WHP mark with what you have. Get use to that and then move on in baby steps like someone else suggested.

If you want cams don't jump and get them now wait til you get a Tbelt change to save on labor. This is what I did. You don't have to buy everything for head work right away. Get your TB and then the intake manifold, it's all about just moving in the right direction....in time. It would be nice to just drop 4 or 6 GRAND and have someone return it to you with 400+ WHP, but most of us will PUTTER along and work our way to that ultimate goal of 400+ WHP in hundred dollar increaments.

Its hard to wait isn't.........I to deal with this everyday!

LOW 22% = -7 -14 -14 .........................................
HIGH 65% =-22 -24 -26 -24 -22 -20 -18 -18

These are mine at 550cc.............blah, blah, blah
just a reference, though

 

[larryd]

can you put on the intake manifold and tb without port matching the head or will that cause a disruption in air flow? and is there something on the net that will show me what vacuum lines i can cap off from a 90 tb for my 98?

 

[GSTspeedracer]

can you put on the intake manifold and tb without port matching the head or will that cause a disruption in air flow?

Yes you can put it on!

But of course it's better to have them port matched to the head. But think of it as building a foundation towards getting your head work done.
I know people whom have done it and they work at shops.

the net that will show me what vacuum lines i can cap off from a 90 tb for my 98?

I think it's on RRE 's site!

 

[Violater101]

Go with a 91-94 TB, but preferably 91 or 92

 

[rdrkt]

Larry if it is in your finances I would seriously recommend you taking a trip to Turbotrix and giving him the keys for an hr. He can do more in an hr with the wideband then you can do with a week of tuning with the logger.

 

[GSTspeedracer]

larryd

http://www.dsm-performance.com/catalog/john_cozad.php

Stock 2g intake, head( didn't read anything about head work) , stock TB and ran a 12.04

SO.......thats something to think about.

 

[larryd]

actually according to that page he has

Mildly ported 2G head
Crower Stage 2 cams
Crower Springs/Retainers
Adjustable cam gears
DSM Performance full lightweight pulley set
ARP head studs

which is exactly what Ive been asking.. what is it I need, ya know

 

[GSTspeedracer]

Missed that one didn't I........

 

[larryd]

hehe, its cool.. I think im going to look into the Crower stuff, see what I can work out with them.. but obviously get a clutch and timing belt first..

 

[Mistaspakles]

I wouldn't go past 17psi without some race fuel. Be careful.

 

[larryd]

17psi on what? 17psi on a T25 and 17psi on a green are 2 different things

 

[Violater101]

17PSI isn't nothing for a Big28. I have countless logs to prove it. I'm running 19lbs normally on it :>

 

[GSTspeedracer]

And I always run 20psi EVERY DAY !!!!! and 122,000 miles and still going

 

[larryd]

yeah same here.. 17psi is nothing at all

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by larryd
but RRE doesnt have standard settings for my setup.. no one does for this turbo, makes me wish I got a 16g sometimes becuase atleat people know about that turbo..

I need to do a leakdown test and make sure Im not losing boost, because Im sure I am and just dont know it..

I know this is an old thread and every car is different, but I really don't see why you couldn't have used those settings since the Big28 is supposedly comparable to a Big 16g.

 

[larryd]

wow.. blast from the past.. look my car actually ran back in May ..

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by larryd
wow.. blast from the past.. look my car actually ran back in May ..

I know dude, I'm so sorry about your car, I'm just trying to get some more input on ths since I'm going to be getting my 550's in a few weeks.

 

[larryd]

there is no reason I could not have used the settings atleast as a base BUT and this is a big but.. even if two cars had the same exact mods their AFC settings may be completely different.

 

[mike9146]

Any time you measure horsepower with a chassis dyno, you're dealing with all sorts of variables. Besides the obvious like ambient temp, humidity, and airflow though the IC, there are other factors that will effect the stated result. For instance, did you use the same gear that the RRE cars did? How heavy are your wheels? The heavier the wheel/tire, the more HP will be "masked" on a chassis dyno. This is because the dyno has to accelerate a known mass, and any additional mass (like wheels/tires) isn't factored in. Just for kicks bring along some "bling bling" chromies from a friend next time you dyno. I'll bet you'll see a noticable difference, especially in lower gears.

Mike C.

 

[16GSpyder]

RE: The RRE dyno chart, Mike's car ran with an open exhaust (side exit w/no CAT). I am not positive at what PSI or octane gas. I think it was 18 psi on 92 octane but that car was a 1G and a special model made to race from Ralli Art if I recall correctly.

Anyway, cam will shift you powerband and I personally prefer the HKS 264/272 and have run the Web Cams, stock cams and HKS all within a six week period. HKS provided better low end with about the same top end as compared to the Web Cams. This is on my 2G.

I hope to jump on a Dyno soon but I'll go in with less expectations and hopefully be pleasantly suprised. I'm looking for 300 WHP on pump gas as well.

20 psi on 91 octane crap using methonal/water injection.

BTW, max EGT temps have been under debate quite a bit on different boards. From my experience and various other people & turbo suppliers, a max of 840C on pump gas seems to be the sweet spot for general pump gas on a 2G and 900C maybe on race gas or running a 1/4 mile since 1st through 3rd gear don't load the engine as much and you can run a little leaner.

You may see that 300 HP mark if you richen up you top end a bit.

My 2 cents.

 

[Generation X]

Just curious if anyone else has dynoed there FP Big28 with supporting mods, including cams.

 

[1badtsi]

what the hell, why did you revive a thread thats been dead for 2years?!?

 

[Lunch_Box]

No kidding start something new.