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Dynoed Today (AGP L2R)

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fix the boost leak, check the timing on the car.. set the boost at 17psi and tune for 93 octane.. see what I can do with my tuner actually at the dyno with me.. wont be for a few months though until I have the engine into te GSX
 
Originally posted by 95GST
Just curious Larry did you drive the car on the street with 28 PSI? How did that feel?

The suggestion to "upgrade" to AEM just because you cannot get the DSMLINK fuel trims tuned correctly is totally absurd.

The DSMLINK is by no means holding Larry back, from the log he posted there is no knock on his 28 PSI run and his timing peaked 17 degrees from 6k+ He could have added some timing gradually and pick up some HP. I assume he ran out of time or ran out of runs.

If you have been on the dyno before you'd know you need to let the engine cool a little between runs while you make adjustments, and 1 hour or 2 will easily go by.

Some of you guys should at least read the thread and his log before making guesses that he's getting timing pulled etc... blah blah. If you're going to bench race, at least read the damn posts. :)

I agree that the Link is NOT holding him back...it's his tuning, but it seems as though it's coming along.
 
Originally posted by trooth
I haven't done enough reading to be able to tell what all is involved with tuning the CAS for a 1G block. When I checked his car with a timing light, it was set to about 10 degrees. I adjusted it down to 5... yet his DSMlink was still logging around 8-10 degrees of timing, right larry? So I'm not sure what may or may not be setup correctly there - but something is definately amiss.

Ok, I have done some tuning with the link on 2 different cars with 6 bolts in thim and here are some tips (AKA, yes you did do some thing wrong).

#1-Invert the CAS signal, I'm sure you've done this so don't jump me in a dark alley...I just wanted to make sure you did.

#2-Set the timing correctly...this is where you went wrong. Here is the corect way to do it (with an explination of why).

To set the timing correctly on a 2g with a 6bolt in it and the DSM Link turn the car on and warm it up to operating temps. Connect the Laptop to the link and the T-Light to the car. Place the laptop so you can see it when you are setting the timing with the light (ie...on the valve cover, or on a stool next to the car). Check the timing with the light AND on the laptop with the link...if the light says 5deg and the link says 8 deg advance the base timing 3deg. You want the light and the link to see the same thing.

The reason you set the timing this way on a 6bolt 2g is cause there is no way to ground the CAS like there is in the 1g, so you must manually make sure that what the ecu see's (8-10deg) is what the light see's (8-10deg). In the next release of the Link there will be an option to "Ground CAS" so that we won't have to risk breaking our laptops to do this and we can set the timing by grounding the CAS like the 1g's can.
 
Get a 93-94 exhaust cam.well,if you find one cheap.90 model has the small ex. cam.dought it will help your knock situation,but it should give you a handful of ponies up top.
 
LOL.. You dont ground the CAS but ground the ECU from controlling the ign timing. Everything need to be referenced to the crank. How does the ECU know where the pistons are at without the CAS if you ground it? So, it's just going to fire the ignition by guessing?
 
Originally posted by jw
LOL.. You dont ground the CAS but ground the ECU from controlling the ign timing. Everything need to be referenced to the crank. How does the ECU know where the pistons are at without the CAS if you ground it? So, it's just going to fire the ignition by guessing?

You are correct, I do believe though that everyone knew what I ment by grounding the CAS. If you say "Ground the ECU" someone might go out and try to mess with the ECU harness...I think everyone knew what I was talking about (the connector on the firewall of a 1g)...and if they didn't they could ask. Where's the icon with the head bitten off...I need that one right now.

*missing head*
 
I don't believe everything I see ...sure it may have made those #'s, but I don't think they are showing everything that car has done to it imo.
 
hate to stay off topic but, they never use the term WHP and also they said that the 16g @ 19psi made 342hp. mostly likely at the crank. also they have cams too so I wouldn't call that "stock intake". Still good numbers tho no matter how you look at it;)
 
maybe swapping the engine to the gsx will fix the knock problems:confused: LOL
 
Originally posted by herostar


well duh, I'm talking performance... what kind of engine management?

im sticking with the DSMlink.. I dont intend on changing anything with the setup. Id like to add HKS 264/272 cams but I really cant afford them right now so I dont know if Ill be running them this season or not.
 
larryd, thumbs up for going for it.Had i known what i really wanted before my parts buying spree,i would have spent the extra dough and went with the l2r.Garrett has the upper hand in design,most know this.why else would the super mitsu's have garrett style exhaust housing?why design when you can copy the best?yes,i know the agp uses mitsu exhaust housing.<---for everyone who's going to talk crap and call me a dumba$$.dude i hope its nothing but a sensor so you can post up some serious numbers for the nay sayers.now-on the 16g responder--did you look at the write up?if you will go back and look at article again,you will notice the dyno sheets are listed as being run on a dynojet 248c.which is a chassis dyno.so there you have it 342whp with a 16g.not shabby by any standards but the garrett tore it a new one.
 
Originally posted by hose101772
larryd, thumbs up for going for it.Had i known what i really wanted before my parts buying spree,i would have spent the extra dough and went with the l2r.Garrett has the upper hand in design,most know this.why else would the super mitsu's have garrett style exhaust housing?why design when you can copy the best?yes,i know the agp uses mitsu exhaust housing.<---for everyone who's going to talk crap and call me a dumba$$.dude i hope its nothing but a sensor so you can post up some serious numbers for the nay sayers.now-on the 16g responder--did you look at the write up?if you will go back and look at article again,you will notice the dyno sheets are listed as being run on a dynojet 248c.which is a chassis dyno.so there you have it 342whp with a 16g.not shabby by any standards but the garrett tore it a new one.
I'm just sitting here wondering how in the world they got 190whp as a base line when the car is only rated at 195 at the crank from the factory to begin with.
 
"I'm just sitting here wondering how in the world they got 190whp as a base line when the car is only rated at 195 at the crank from the factory to begin with."

my point exactly:rolleyes:

Hey Larry, by what time do you hope to have everything tranfered over?
 
Originally posted by SPEEDY
I'm just sitting here wondering how in the world they got 190whp as a base line when the car is only rated at 195 at the crank from the factory to begin with.

^^
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^^

C'mon now. Think about it.
 

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