dynoed my car today..

[larryd]

speaking of wheels, thats the other thing i was curious about.. if I had dynod on the 16s would i have made more power?? obviously the extra weight of the rotating mass doesnt help but does it really hurt on the dyno?

 

[larryd]

well i got the dyno files today from the dyno and it is kinda strange.. like i said before I dont have a torque reading or RPM based reading becuase it wasnt working properly but what im astonished by is the car held most of the hp all the way up the rpms.. it didnt drop off till the last 5-10mph of 3rd gear.. Im starting to wonder if cams are worth it.. I cant do a screen capture for some reason to paste this as an image in PSP.. so until I figure it out I took a pic with my digi cam.. id appreciate any comments..

-- edit --

 

[larryd]

also im moving this post to the 2.0 turbo dsm tuning since it really belongs there..

 

[NJGSX96]

I don't know anything about dyno graphs, but I have heard they are supposed to be smooth. If that is the case, it looks like you need to tune a little up top and you will find that HP you are looking for I think.

As for the cams, I don't think you need them just yet. WOuld i tbe a nice addition? Sure. But I think you should tune what you got first and then make your decision.

 

[larryd]

what im trying to figure out is how come mine doesnt drop off.. the one on RRE's page with a 16g which is supposed to be the equivalent drops off big time at redline..

 

[Boosted97GS-T]

yours looks much better than mine, i wish i was able to post my graph, but anyway i'll try to explain, mine shoots up to 160hp then falls to about 155 then levels off there, then very roughly goes up to 185hp. mine was done in 4th gear and i also think there was a dyno problem but anyway i dont know if i made any since but from what people are telling me it should be pretty smooth.

btw, my car was real jerky on there, so i think thats where my rough looking graph came from, cant imagine what caused that

 

[larryd]

i managed to get the files on my other computer in graphic image.. so here goes..

I believe this was 17 psi

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This was 19psi, close to 20..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[larryd]

20psi

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

comparison

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[larryd]

no comments on how rigid that thing is up top?? come on my experiences tuners.. help me out here

 

[Boosted97GS-T]

i would be intrested in knowing myself, mines the same way

 

[crankbender]

Those are fairly normal looking graphs. I will comment more on it later I just wanted to bump this up. I have some things to say about the cams...and I don't think you should get me.

 

[larryd]

im really lookin for help here guys.. comparing my dyno to that of a Big 16G I can see that mine is holding power more to redline then the 16G is so im wondering if cams are worth it or not..

I mean compare the 2.. this is mine

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

this is the 16G from RRE before and after web cams..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[NJGSX96]

I'd say hold off on the cams. You don't need them yet. You can also look at the graph this way... your BigT28 should flow as much as a 16G, if not more. Their 16G got 37 without cams. Tune that car all good so you have at least that number. Then, if you feel necessary, then think about cams. until then, tuning, tuning, and more tuning.

Crankbender, please explain his graph. I know nothing about dynos or how to read the output. I am interested to learn something new.

 

[larryd]

the fact that they gpt 307 without cams makes me wonder what else was done to that car.. doesnt really say.. 307 just seems high. i mean Im sure I can make more power but damn, ya know.. turning up the boost would be one thing, mine was at 20psi.. Im sure I could turn it up to 23 or so if I could get the Profec working right.. tuning soon hopefully

 

[Violater101]

Don't get webs for the BIg28 from what I have heard. Bad NEWS. Go with HKS 264's from everything that I have heard including Robert. I wish someone had a 264/272 setup..that is what I was thinking of doing.

 

[GSTspeedracer]

I've got webs no problems YET.....big lumpy idle......and big power gains.

Are you positive that you don't have a boost leak? Take it and have it tested, it's the only way to be sure.

But, I had mine tested and no leaks, right, and like a week later I was changing to red silicone vaccum hoses and the T on the back of the manifold for my boost gauge, was plastic (VDO, very brittle and actually broke in my hand ) oh sh@t!!! I said. I used an extra metal T from a Greddy BOV I had. The next morning I went to work and thought I had installed an afterburner in my car, I almost sh@t my pants BOOST LEAKS........sometimes you can hear them in the tests and somtimes not!, but get it checked out......if it's small enough the turbo will still hold boost and just be over spinning to make up for the leak.

And check your SAFC settings against RRE standard settings, I went from 306 to 317 just doing their standard settings.

 

[larryd]

but RRE doesnt have standard settings for my setup.. no one does for this turbo, makes me wish I got a 16g sometimes becuase atleat people know about that turbo..

I need to do a leakdown test and make sure Im not losing boost, because Im sure I am and just dont know it..

 

[GSTspeedracer]

Out of curiousity..........what are your Safc settings on HIGH and whats the thorttle % valve from high to low: HIGH % LOW % and what EGT are you pulling in full third gear pull?

 

[larryd]

high settings are -25%

throttle..im not sure but I think its set at 65% for high.. I cant remember off top of my head..

and EGTs are between 850-900

 

[crankbender]

Sorry for the delay guys i was out of town for the weekend. First off I would like to clarify some stuff so we are all on the same page here.

Larry:
you are running the stock clutch still correct?
Do you have a logger? if so what are your timing advance values?
Please do a converstion so that we know what RPMs you are turning at those MPH so we can compair the graphs.


First off the gains from the cams really happen after red line. If you want to run that high you will also have to replace minimum springs and retaining clips. You should also replace the valves (lighter) and rods (stronger). That is alot of money for those measly gains. To do it right really takes well over 1000 bucks....anything else you would want for that kinda cash larry?

I had this big long thing written about he dynos and I will sum it up short and sweet for you. No 2 dynos are the same and no 2 cars are the same. The mechanics on the dyno may be the same but there is no way to know if they are giving the same traction if the same fans are being used...etc. You are probably loosing power on that dyno because of wheel slip and clutch slip. go to a dyno that will give you readings of torque and you will be able to tell that better. You may be hitting retard because of knock at the hp lvl also. There are soooooo many factors.

Fill in the needed info and I will see what I can tell you.

 

[larryd]

ok yes im still running the stock clutch.. I do have a pocket logger and ive posted a couple logs in the electronic tuning forum.. here are a few links to em..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1671

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=845

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=146

I wish I could figure out the RPM based upon the speed on that dyno, ofcourse if I had the RPMs Id have a torque # as well..

So are you saying that Cams would be no good unless I went above redline which Im not planning on doing??

Also the other thing about that dyno was they couldnt tie down the car properly so when I hit full boost the car swayed side to side, would that make the car not show as much power on the rollers?

 

[NJGSX96]

You are still running your stock clutch!! Replace that bad boy. I bet you will run so much faster and make so much more power.

 

[GSTspeedracer]

LARRYD

ok yes im still running the stock clutch

I had no idea you were still on stock clutch!
This is BAD larryd..................... very BAD.

Go get a ACT 2600.......don't play around with lesser clutches. It's not as heavy as everyone makes it out to be. Plus your starting to sound like a power junky! and you don't want to spend money doing dumb sh@t twice, like I did. Especially if you get a bigger turbo down the road your gonna need it.
So......get a clutch, do a leak down test, go to a real dyno. Just get the most out of that turbo first befor moving on. I know its hard to wait, I can't wait to move on to a BIG TURBO, but have WE all really maxed out our current setup's ( like head,TB,intake manifolds, cams,lsd's.......etc.) then go get the BIGGER TURBO. I truely understand where your coming from!

 

[GSTspeedracer]

So are you saying that Cams would be no good unless I went above redline which Im not planning on doing??

I would say they come in a little sooner then that!
Probably around 5700-6000 until you let out of it.

I had this big long thing written about he dynos and I will sum it up short and sweet for you. No 2 dynos are the same and no 2 cars are the same. The mechanics on the dyno may be the same but there is no way to know if they are giving the same traction if the same fans are being used...etc. You are probably loosing power on that dyno because of wheel slip and clutch slip. go to a dyno that will give you readings of torque and you will be able to tell that better. You may be hitting retard because of knock at the hp lvl also. There are soooooo many factors.

AGREED!!!!!


high settings are -25% This is at 20psi correct?

Are you saying that from 1000-8000 in HIGH on the SAFC is set at -25 across the whole board?

 

[crankbender]

The cams start to make a little difference before redline but the big differences are after the stock redline which you can increase if you change out the springs, retaining clips, etc. This will let you push it to 7.5k. It will wear on the bearings which are not the best in the 2gs. Basically what I am saying is that the money you spend on cams isn't worth it untill you are ready to push it that far. (especially if you need a clutch upgrade just to hold the power you are already making)

Look at the graphs of the 16g and see where the cams actually made a difference. And that is with a car that probably has alot of mods and lower boost than many are running.

If your car is having traction problems on the dyno when you "get on it" then yes the numbers will be wrong.