The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

dsmlink v3 lite? or not?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

plus you can upgrade whenver you have the full package difference, think split payment. That way you have what you need now and get what you want later.
 
Thanks DG i was looking that over and the one thing that it looks like i might need is the

"Idle air simulation Works around that annoying stall when coming to a stop or pressing the clutch pedal in."

what causes this? or will i might not need this
 
+2 on the SD. its not that expensive and works AMAZINGLY!!

but it depends what your doing with it. from my understanding, lite gives you the ability to tune but its limited, its more for stuff not making that much HP and in pretty much stock form.
 
Lite gives you most of what regular has as far as tuning - the main difference being the fuel/timing maps are a bit smaller (approx 23psi and 8000rpm) and most major adjustments can only be made with the engine stopped. You can run more boost or rpm than that BUT it will run on the same settings from 8000 rpm up. There are no sliders, the nifty auto mafcomp feature is missing, and you cannot use the ecu outputs to control nitrous or meth injection like full size dsmlink.

That means things like maf compensation, injector deadtime, injector size, fuel mixture changes, and timing changes must be made with the engine off key on to take effect. There is no global fuel slider, no maf freq sliders, and no rpm based fuel/timing sliders. It is up to you to make those adjustments in the direct access portion of link....but they can be made. 'bout the only useful thing you can do with the engine running with lite is change the idle speed and check/clear/disable dtc's. You can also change the boost gauge function (to say knock....) with engine running. For you SD fans the mixture table IS adjustable on the fly for SD too.

Considering the upgrade policy I think link lite is the deal of the century - the logging speed is so much faster and so many more things are loggable than anything else it is worth the money for just that alone for those of us who already have an eprom ecu. The guys with their fancy flashable ecu's might do better with the other option. For 96/97's it would depend on how much they can get a flashable or eprom ecu for I'd think.

The dsmlink forums are pretty damn helpful too - you don't get that with the other solution...or maybe you do see jrohner's post below.....
 
Last edited:
I would seriously go read on What's new at DS-Map? | DSMAP before making a decision. I'm in the same boat right now, but am well educated on both systems. I'm just really trying to find out why I should pay so much for link when jackal is free... and i'm having a hard time finding a reason.
 
I've been debating this same thing.

I'm really tight on money but I want to get tuned for 300-350whp in april and am not sure if Lite could accomplish the goals as well as full could.

Still debating on it.
 
I just started using ds-map jackal on a 1G. I was pretty easy to get the car going, and didn't take long to get a halfway decent tune. It starts good even in the cold MN winter, and I haven't came across any issues yet. You can always give it a try, and if you don't like it go with something else. It's free, so it's not like you have anything to lose by trying it.


I'm really tight on money but I want to get tuned for 300-350whp in april and am not sure if Lite could accomplish the goals as well as full could.

From what I've seen looking at the comparisons, you're not really losing anything going with the cheaper 'lite' version of link. The maps stop at a lower airflow/boost level, but it's not like you can't still run higher boost, you just have to tune the last row for it. People get more than you're shooting for with a crappy AFC for tuning.
 
Lite is definately the way to go if you're unsure because you can always upgrade to the full version later for the difference in cost. There are a couple different comparison pages out there that show you what they both can do and what the exclusive features for the full version are. I'm definitely gonna get lite first then when I get the money and need, I will upgrade to the full version :rocks:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top