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DSM Weight Reduction [merged] diet weight loss strip light

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98TsiAWD

DSM Wiseman
2,864
8
May 19, 2002
94 3000GT VR-4, North_Dakota
I personally am looking to do some weight reduction while retaining the quiet/smooth ride, and still having a spare so I can go on the highway without getting flatbedded home.

heres some of my ideas, just normal of course.

CF hood
Ditch all of my stereo and just get upgraded 6x9, 5.25, and 3.5's hooked to the factory amp/deck.
CF Hatch<<<Anyone make one for us?
CF Spoiler<<Anyone make it?
Dimple Drilled/Slotted Rotors


What else is there? I dont wanna tear out all the sound deadening or the spare tire.
 
One thing to consider also .. is if you are going to re-sale the car... youre gonna need that stuff back in ...try inconspicuous items first... ie A/C things like that... the panels out of your trunk... my interior was JUNK so I said the hell with it and got rid of most of it... its all about your tastes... I think a stripped car is dead sexy ... but I would suggest if you want to sale it later ...or keep it "not so trashy" ..try things that the eyes do not normally see.. and yes it will help you a bit... not as much as a upgrade...but there will be a difference... lighter body parts are a good idea too
 
TSIMonsteR said:
If you have Z rated, or better tires... Fix-a-flat is bad (Read the Warnings on the Can) Otherwise... great idea

You are absolutely right. I had only mentioned this because it would only get the rim off the ground long enough to maybe get it home ( driving very slowly). Yes, Z-rated or better SHOULD NOT be repaired.



This may be a good option if you have extra cash and want to keep a clean look but drop weight. I plan to do this when I have extra cash.

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/flexite-molded.html

Please note that it is not recommended for street use
 
Nice website 1gawdjunkie. I suppose it's so they can't be sued if the glass shatters and kills/hurts someone. Any idea on the cost?

I've removed - All AC components, back seats, spare, lightweight battery, SMIM and i'm about to go manual rack, manual doors. It's really not as bad as people make it sound. Yea you can hear the certain rattles etc of the car but that's what a radio is for
 
The kit for the rear half is $499.95 plus freight charges at summit, part number FLX-9089

This would be on par with the aluminum bumpers, use at your own risk.

The manual steering is not that bad, just avoid tight parking spaces at the grocery store:)
 
Before I put the manual steering in I still could park anywhere without powersteering. Just make sure your tires are full of air and its easy. Unless your really weak I dont see anyone having a problem
 
It took me about an hour to get the compressor and pulley and bracket out. Then probably another hour and a half to get everyting else out (lines, condensor, etc.) The part took a while just ### i had to take off my bumber and fmic to get at the condensor.
 
The back seats actually weight enough to be a big enough chunk worth taking out... The bottom part is not the heavy part, It's the part that a persons back rests on. Get rid of your stock seats they weigh 50lbs a piece, Get some light weight seats if you are serious about the weight reduction. If you are serious about it, You will know everything comes with a price. Eventually you'll get to the point where removing weight costs money. I had removed over 500lbs from two of my previous cars. My 2g I actually cut ALOT of metal that nobody can see by just glancing at the car. I cut the floor out and sheetmetaled the very back etc...

You were bitching about taking out the ps that it would be ''to hard'' to steer. No, Maybe at a stand still, Or in a parking lot doing 2mph. It actually would feel alot better then a car with ps. You can't be that serious if you are not willing to take out certain things from the car. I suggest buying a small shot of nitrous, Instead of picking out tiny things in your car that aren't going to ad up to alot of weight in the long run.
 
Another good weight saver is replacing the automatic seatbelts with a 5-point harness or the manual Canadian seatbelts. I bought a set of these off a guy from the Canada forums. You wouldn't believe how much the stock auto-strangler's weigh, i think around 35 pounds, and the manual ones can't weigh much more than 5 or 6 pounds. Plus you don't have to deal with the hassle of always getting your neck tangled in the automatic ones.
 
1GawdJunkie said:
You are absolutely right. I had only mentioned this because it would only get the rim off the ground long enough to maybe get it home ( driving very slowly). Yes, Z-rated or better SHOULD NOT be repaired.

When you say Z rated tires should not be repaired even if you have a nail and use a plug? If so why?
 
Mitsuclipsegsx,

I appologize I really should be more specific. My comment was originally in regards to the Fix-A-Flat and the worm/rubber cement tire repair kit from Napa. The one you push through yourself.

Speed rated tires can be repaired professionally, I have provided a link below with more information

http://www.goodyear.com/cfmx/web/gov/police/psb_9811.cfm

Thank you for the follow-up.


"In regards to the Canadian seat belts I had looked into this mod. The information I have found is that most manufacture and safty board insist that the seat belt restraint system should be replaced after it has been engaged during a moderate to severe accident. It is considered a one time use item, and recommended to be inspected after any crash no matter how minor. I hope any one pulling the seatbelts from a junkyard keeps this in mind. Doing a search online unfortunately you will have to sift through a lot of info on child safety seats but it is out there. Here is a link that I was able to find fairly quickly, if I find any others I will post them."

http://www.northwestparkway.org/medi...eplacement.pdf




(The above was taken from my post in this thread
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1847388#post1847388
 
So how come nobody wants to throw up some pics? I wanna get an idea of what my 1g is going to look like stripped. Does anyone have custom sheetmetal dashes? Also if you pick up a project car selling off all the stuff that you take out is a quick way to make back some extra cash.
 
Ok we had this discussion on mx6.com (my old car forum as a joke) and we all came up with this 2 years ago:

-take your doors, roof, trunk and hood off,
-rip all interior out,
-take a shit before driving
-cut your legs off and replace with light weight aluminum ones
-have no fat chicks in the car
-drive naked (clothes save 5 lbs)

if it's for a 1/4 mile

--Get a nice charge on the battery before you run it, because you don't need no stinking alternator. Making electricity costs horsepowe
--AC is nothing but weight. Get rid of all components.
--Power Steering? You're going in a straight line.

:thumb:
 
if you actually go to the track alot and run your car then there is nothing at all wrong with weight reduction

it also helps because of less strain on the drivetrain

my car has quite a bit of weight reduction, but then again im at the track like everyweek..

so my advise is not to listen to bench racers with slow 2gs and talk to people who have weight redution and actually have somewhat fast cars

but if your car isent somewhat fast already then i would focus on making it fast first then doing some weight reduction
 
Ok guys heres what I have removed for weight loss on my 95 talon....

All heating/cooling equipment
All unnecessary wiring under dash
All switches (replacing with toggles) in dash
Spare tire crap
Washer bottle in rear and all included parts
Rear wiper
Spoiler
Both airbags and all wiring and sensors

Here is what will be removed before car is complete....
Entire dash will be rebuilt from sheetmetal or 'glas
Steering column switches and ignition cylinder (maybe not, cant decide)
Front and rear bumper supports
Remove one front wiper and have 1 full-sweep wiper
ABS system
Charcoal canister (can someone please help me out on the last two things?)
 
current pics
 

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Looks like my car, but mine doesnt have any wiring at all in it right now. Thank god those factory service manuals came in.

For the non-abs unit you have to get the valve that mounts on the firewall and the corresponding lines from a like car. The charcoal canister is in your engine bay, not positive but check underneath your battery tray for it. Remove it, block off all vac. lines and block off the egr while you are at it.
 
removing the canister and blocking off the egr ports wont cause problems with the engine performance or anything?
 
When you gut the trunk does the rear end of your car raise? I have a 2G GST and wanted to gut the trunk and remove the rear seat, but I don't want the rear of my car sticking up in the air...
 
Well this thread is being brought back again but I'll bite. What kind of updates are you looking for? As far as my car I kind of took a break on it while I got married (sat for 6 months) I then poured my time into making it run again. I got everything back in order and got her running again and this last weekend was boost leak check time, Im waiting on some seals for the TB and she'll be ready for some tuning and perhaps even one track appearance. I really haven't done much more in the weight loss though. This winter I plan to cut out the crash bars in the doors, remove all unnecessary wiring and move the fuse box to the interior and perhaps some other little stuff. Unfortunately the fuel cell setup, lexan windows and anything carbon fiber or fiberglass (hood and hatch) will have to wait until this man makes a whole lot more money. I don't think I ever linked to these in this thread so check them out.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205418

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210956
 
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