DSM Weight Reduction [merged] diet weight loss strip light

[98TsiAWD]

I personally am looking to do some weight reduction while retaining the quiet/smooth ride, and still having a spare so I can go on the highway without getting flatbedded home.

heres some of my ideas, just normal of course.

CF hood
Ditch all of my stereo and just get upgraded 6x9, 5.25, and 3.5's hooked to the factory amp/deck.
CF Hatch<<<Anyone make one for us?
CF Spoiler<<Anyone make it?
Dimple Drilled/Slotted Rotors


What else is there? I dont wanna tear out all the sound deadening or the spare tire.

 

[SBstar]

As a self-proclaimed weightloss guru I'll throw in my .02 for your hefty 2g. Most of the weights I know are from the 1g so don't kill me when my numbers are off.
Your 2g GST started out life at about 3000lbs. Let's keep your weight unlisted so we'll just go with the car for now.

Remove front and rear bumpers
1g bumpers combined are about 70lbs. I I'm about 99% positive the 2g's front bumper is much lighter then the 1g's so lets say 55lbs. just to play it safe.

Speakers and audio system (stock) about 15-20lbs.

Spare tire cover/ privacy cover/rear carpeting etc- 20 lbs

Lightweight battery saved - 26 lbs Odyssey PC680 is a good small battery with plenty of cranking power

Spare tire/jack/tools - 37 lbs,.

Front seats replaced with racing seats (assuming cloth w/out power) 86lbs. replaced with reclining Corbeau CR-1 seats (just using them as a reference non recling seats are much lighter) 54lbs....32lbs. saved

Replacing rims...stock 2g rims are about 20-25 lbs a piece depending on which ones you have...I can't tell if yours are the 16" or 17" but either way lets say yours are 22lbs a piece, get yourself some RX-7 wheels which weigh in at about 15 a piece and save yourself 28lbs.

So where are we now...218lbs. removed...well I hope you don't weigh too much more then that so there you have it under your goal without sacrificing too much daily driveability

Also I would like to add that lexan is definitely not a great idea on a street car. Other easy removal items to consider

A/C probably doesn't work anyways right? 35lbs
All sound deadening- 25 lbs Kind of a pain to scrape out but hey if your going crazy
Slimline fans will save you about 6lbs a piece
Driveshaft heat shields are a couple lbs.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Use dry ice for the tar on the floor.

 

[SBstar]

Use dry ice for the tar on the floor.

What he said Or if you live in Michigan like me, just wait for a really cold day and wear your longjohns!

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Usually when you use "dry ice" on the interior, It will shatter all the tar on the floor, Or it will come off in actual whole pieces. Either way, It's faster then scraping it or heating/scraping, Which is a PAIN!

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I HIGHLY recommend using dry ice and a paint scrapper to get the ''tar'' off the metal floor. I used it last nite again in my new 2g gsx i'm stripping everything, And the dry ice worked GREAT. I useto use a heatgun and a paint scrapper, then paint thinner to get the left over crap off and it was a huge process.

The dry ice, I just broke pieces off where the ''tar'' is, then chopped it up like well.... Whatever you want to say, Just chop it up with the paint scrapper and let it sit, You'll hear the tar starting to crackle sooner then later, Just take the paint scrapper, And scrape it off then!! I was using a hammer to hit the paint scrapper handle so it was easier for me, Pieces were coming off in big sections. I did the whole back seat area/trunk area in no time at all *under an hour). Just the back tar under the seat, And where the spare tire goes (NOTHING ELSE) was I think 10lbs.... In my old 1g it took me a week or two to do the whole car with a heat gun I already got 106lbs out of the car and there is so much more to get out, Then buying c/f and such.. Once you start weight reducting, You're not going to want to stop(unless its just me), So if you live with your parents that will get angry with you for ''ruining'' a car, I highly suggest not even starting on doing any of it. I cut the floors and inside body out and sheetmetaled my old 2gB gst..

 

[drivemusicnow]

okay, so I just now read through all 9 pages of this damned thread. I have some thoughts and would like some feedback.


How I see it is that there are 3 types of weight loss. First type is removing the easy stuff. A/C, plastics, interior, sound deadening, brackets etc. This is the relatively easy, cheap and somewhat effective stuff. Second type is the expensive type. Run the squidskin CF hatch, FAL windows, CF hood, make your own fiberglass or CF doors, fendors etc. All relatively high dollar per lb weightloss.

The third type is what I'm most concerned with. Cutting out non structural sheetmetal, or excess bracing on non load bearing parts (ie. hood). I don't think I've really seen anyone other than the few elite racers both road course and drag do this, but I think for people who are exclusively tracking these cars, it would be worth discussing. For example, the sheetmetal that is behind the rear fendors. A lot of that is not structural and could be removed without any loss. If the car has a cage in it, I don't see the downfall of cutting out all of this crap as it won't do anything for you being there.

Plus it will make it easier to hammer out dents

The reason I'm bringing this up is because 500$ for a hatch, + 500 for windows+ 500$ for a Cf hood + 500$ for CF doors... well, it all adds up quick. The car isn't worth that kind of money for easily damaged parts. When I was talking to Greg Collier, he alluded to cutting out A LOT of pointless sheetmetal, however I wasn't at the point of understanding/asking further.

Hell, even cutting out structural members, and replacing them with DOM tubing that is stronger and lighter would make a lot of sense to me, and DOM tubing is rather cheap, welding yourself is even cheaper, and I think Home Depot has a special on sawzall blades this week.

Has anyone taken this to the limit? Or am I going to be hacking this thing apart blindly.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

If you read my post, I said I did what you mentioned in my daily driver 2gB... I went nuts, Everyone thought I was crazy, But I guess you hafto sit down and ask yourself the question of how fast do you really want to go, And how liteweight do you really want to be. To me, It was just another day and I did not think twice about it, Maybe it was stupid, Maybe not. I already started doing the same on my 1 owner 2g GSX that I just got..

 

[SBstar]

Yep I've done a lot of cutting of said non-structural material. Cut out alot metal from the hood, hatch, doors, and some interior stuff (U-frame, different brackets etc...). I haven't gotten to the inner fender stuff simply because my car is not going to be running 11.49 soon and cutting that metal out would require a cage which would weigh much more then the metal being removed. However, if your already running in that category with a cage I say cut that stuff out. But in all honestly that thin metal isn't all that heavy, but the more you cut out the more it adds up!

 

[boosted95clipse]

BOOST! Stop investing in taking stuff out and slap a big turbo on that baby and blow that 420a away

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Tuning is the key, Not a big turbo.

 

[drivemusicnow]

BOOST! Stop investing in taking stuff out and slap a big turbo on that baby and blow that 420a away

For those of use who like to turn, getting down to go-kart/lotus weight helps out more than any amount of boost on any big turbo ever will.

I would like to see this car at a 2700 lbs race weight, (1/2 tank gas and no driver, but two seats/harnesses, full cage, fire suppression, etc) I know it can happen.

 

[lesb1978]

I no that I'm bringing this up from the depths, but its been a minute since i was on.

I'm not trying to offend anyone, but after a certain point it's easier for the driver to drop weight than it is for the car. Ever seen a average size horse jockey? theres a reason for that. Before you go spending money on a titanium exhaust, try spending a little less time at the buffet. Every pound you lose is a pound you dont have to search the car for. And remember all you can eat is not a challenge.


Just my 2cents

 

[Black_Bullet]

If you read my post, I said I did what you mentioned in my daily driver 2gB... I went nuts, Everyone thought I was crazy, But I guess you hafto sit down and ask yourself the question of how fast do you really want to go, And how liteweight do you really want to be. To me, It was just another day and I did not think twice about it, Maybe it was stupid, Maybe not. I already started doing the same on my 1 owner 2g GSX that I just got..

Id be interested in cutting certain parts of the floors out. I also really want to cut that big awd hump out of the hatch, its rather annoying if you ask me. Maybe like cut it off and sheetmetal a square were it was cut. Thered be carpet on top of it anyway.
Do you have any pics of where you cut and how you rewelded new material in?
Did you weigh how much weight you dropped? My laser is fairly light now for a dsm weighing in at 2750ish give or take a few and thats without driver and i eventually want to get carbon fiber hood and hatch with speedglass in the hatch and a aluminum driveshaft, but id love to drop another 200 lbs before then. Im all about lightening this car rather than over powering it.

( BTW They used to have all the parts weights on vfaq I dont know what happened to it.)

 

[stevieraywolf]

I just got my 90 eclipse and was wondering what wild and crazy things I've never heard of before that I could take out to make it a bit lighter. In the end, I hope to get this thing as fast as possible, but it's a daily driven car and it's gonna stay that way. (I just wanna take out some weight for better mileage; yeah, I'm poor)

And a totally random question, would a polyurethane body kit be lighter than the stock fiberglass or not? (Not that I care, looks over mileage.)

 

[bpestilence]

Id be interested in cutting certain parts of the floors out. I also really want to cut that big awd hump out of the hatch, its rather annoying if you ask me. Maybe like cut it off and sheetmetal a square were it was cut. Thered be carpet on top of it anyway.
Do you have any pics of where you cut and how you rewelded new material in?
Did you weigh how much weight you dropped? My laser is fairly light now for a dsm weighing in at 2750ish give or take a few and thats without driver and i eventually want to get carbon fiber hood and hatch with speedglass in the hatch and a aluminum driveshaft, but id love to drop another 200 lbs before then. Im all about lightening this car rather than over powering it.

( BTW They used to have all the parts weights on vfaq I dont know what happened to it.)

Don't bother cutting the bump out of the hatch. The gas tank is below it, and that too has a bump in it.

I plan on dropping as much weight as possible in the car without having to sacrifice the drive. Why? Because even if it doesn't make the car faster, it will make it handle better and it will improve your fuel economy.

Doing it on a budget isn't easy, but if you have the ability to fabricate things yourself, the materials aren't TOO expensive. For example, a standard sheet (96" x 48") of 1/4" Lexan is about $70 locally. Lexan is a thermoplastic that is not too hard to form. I made a lot of Lexan windows for the UW's SAE program. Just need a form (the stock glass) and a heat source (either a low-temp kiln or a UV lamp, which you can rent). That alone will take 40-50 pounds off the car. (at the expense of no rear defroster, and you can use tint to make it scratch resistant) Then with some composites skill, you can make your own hatch and/or hood for cheap. Use Kevlar. Right now it is 1/2 the price of CF and looks just as good. (also very high strength). If you wanted to get crazy you could make composite crash bars to replace the rediculously heavy steel units. I don't even know how much weight that would save.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Weight reduction definitely makes you faster and makes the torque of the engine feel like its pulling you harder in my opinion. Probably because it is . I know the general consensus formula seems to be every 100lbs is roughly 1/10th off your 1/4 time. Ive deleted 350lbs out my car so far and with the times I've picked up i wouldn't be surprised if it dropped me almost .4 of a second. Weight reduction especially makes your car feel more athletic driving around on the street.I agree with you with the better handling/ gas mileage thing with weight reduction. I'm all about light weight instead of compensating with more power. Also don't forget braking distances will be reduced...
I Didn't know the gas tank has a bump in it? I'm going to have to look into that more because that was the one piece of metal that I was determined to cut out the car so my hatch area would be flat and smooth back there without that humpback.
As far as lighter windows, thats a thought, i want to do that if I get a carbon fiber hatch area one day, but I don't think I'd do the sides or the front windows they see to much chance of getting scratched up. I need a magic genie to come and make my car weigh only 1000lbs without making it look any more gutted .

 

[Turbohorse]

One thing to remember about being lighter is theres less strain on all of your driveline parts.Also you dont have to worry about weight reduction breakin down on you. Weighing less isnt goin to leave you along the highway...

 

[1993eclipseGS]

The 2g fwd's have nothing under the hatch section in the car. Just remember if you are going to cut things out on the floor, WATCH you do not go through any lines/important things, On the underside of the car.

 

[silver bullit]

Ok i took out my ac and it only weighed 25 pounds how are you guys coming up with 35? i removed everything and still got this 25lbs. Even with the fluid it does not make up ten pounds.

The thing in the dash for ac only weighs 4 pounds and is not worth removing unless the dash is out or you are desperate. This is the only thing i did not remove wit the above cause i am unsure if the 30 lbs is worth it in the summer.

This all is for a 90 awd

My power steering only weighs 22 ish.

Front and rear crash beam weighs 34-36. One clean and the other with dirt and rust on it.

This includes all lines, hoses, brackets, clamps, pumps, pulleys, wire, fluid.

The back seats with all the brackets, bolts, only weighs 50.

All the crap in the trunk is about 35-40 lbs, bracket, tire, jack, tools, plastic panels.

The heat shield under the car from the cat to rear diff only weighs 6 lbs.

All the insulation on the bottom of the carpet weighed 18 pounds, carpet all together stock was 25.

All the sound deadening from the truck, back of seat, including the shock towers, both 4 piece stripes inside trunk and under speakers only came to 17.5 lbs.

 

[SBstar]

It's going to depend on the scale and possibly even car to car. 35 is just what is listed on prostreets weight list.

 

[Turbohorse]

Anyone ever try getting rid of all the excess wiring? I had a bad experience with that when i tried removing all the extra wires that went to all the power stuff from the front seats back! Just asking.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Ok i took out my ac and it only weighed 25 pounds how are you guys coming up with 35?.

Just with the few parts you listed that is already 161 1/2 lbs....

If you want to get serious about weight reduction, It's going to cost you big money and you'll find that out if you have money to spend and get serious about it. hood/hatch/lexan windows/rims&tires/removed balance shafts/lighter flywheel, liter engine internals. You'll be poor before you know it.

 

[silver bullit]

Thats not including the extra brackets for both front seats 2lbs maybe.

4 brackets that hold the dash up and about a pound or 2 of bolts removed from the inside, engine and behind the dash.

The padding on the firewall inside the engine bay, maybe 5-7 lbs.

The padding on the fire wall behind the dash weighs 15 lbs

 

[Black_Bullet]

Damn, you beat me to it I was going to mention all that stuff also.( Ive taken all that out.)
The brackets behind the dash all together comes up to about 5lbs.
Also what about your front crash beam? Not safe to remove, but most of us remove it when using a front mount... The rear one you should leave but theres placing to cut metal out of it without significantly weakening the structure of it. Ive even swapped over to manual seat belts and removed the motors. Removed the rear windshield and windshield wiper motor as well... My car is down to 2750ish without me in it. I weigh 155 so a good guess of a 2900lb race weight isnt bad... And you all remove your passenger seats and passenger headlight housings at the track right

 

[silver bullit]

I want a laser aahhhhh i wanna trade for one...

Yeah the crash beam in the front i trimmed for the front mount, the new front crash beam weighs 14.5 lbs, i just cut out the whole middle piece from where the bolts are, almost like now i can fit my radiator inside my front crash beam.

I plan on only running 1/2-1/4 tank of gas anyway, plus i am gonna try to fab some new lightweight ones out of aluminum.

I weigh 207-215 so i need to lose 30 pounds, cause i am a fat ass.

I am thinking about removing all of the sound deadening in the car but i did the same to my last talon and my honda and i did not like the hollow sounding, plus the extra noise. I had to turn the radio up from 15 to 25 out of 40 to hear the same on my pos honda .

The Talon was ok i could still talk on the phone at highway speed, but the honda i could not hear over 40.

I think the inside of the car sound deadening adds up to about 30 pounds from fire wall to trunk not including the rubber mat on the fire wall.